I would not suggest using the on/off switch. Another member on here had problems with the contacts inside the switch fusing, making it so the switch would not disengage... bad.
I'll bet that guy wasn't using the genuine Cole Hersee brand foot-switch I recommended. Just like any parts, there's lower quality brands sold that are total pieces of trash.
These foot start switches were used before automotive starters had solenoids or a relay. They have huge beefy contacts inside because the 6-volt starters draw twice as much amperage as 12-volt equivalents. I worked at an automotive-electrical specialty/starter-alternator rebuild shop for 17 years. We dealt with 1000's of vintage cars and trucks that used these foot-starter switches, they all had 300 to 500+ amps of current flowing through them. I never saw a single one that stuck on, although I did experience dozens of modern 12-volt starter solenoids & relays that the contacts had fused/stuck on.
But you did have a very good safety point, This type of switch was not designed for constant duty use. It's certainly possible its contacts could fuse/stick-on, especially with the OP's motor. Our gas powered karts have kill switches for use in this situation, and it'd be a really good idea to instal a battery disconnect switch within easy reach of the driver on the OP's kart. There's several different styles of battery disconnect switches available. I'd suggest the OP installs one, no mater what type of speed control system is used.
Edit:
It's be prety easy to instal 2 of the foot-switches I recommended, they would share the load lowering the stress on each switch. You'd just need to wire them in parallel and use a throttle pedal that simply pushed against both switches.