First offroad go-karts build

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JPGraphX

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Okay guys, my rear axle and motor is all set (not finished, but I know what to do ..).

Now, I'd like to see one step forward. What setup would you recommend for the front spindle. As I said previously, my kart will be for light to medium offroad. And my target is around 30-35 mph.

I want something strong. Is it something possible with homemade front spindle? I need 5/8 shaft or bolt to fit my wheel bearing.

Thanks,
JP
 

firemanjim

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Well you could use his design, but add in heavy springs between the spindle and top of spindle bracket,like Manco does. It's a simple suspension..... :thumbsup:
 

JPGraphX

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Something like that would be good?

 

JPGraphX

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I have a carburetor primer hose on my loncin, but I can't see where to plug it on my GX390 carb, any idea?

Thanks!
JP
 

JPGraphX

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I wasn't sure what was the best section of the forum to post it.

And my goal wasn't to insult anyone..
 

JPGraphX

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Here's an update of my progression!

uploadfromtaptalk1418564087506.jpg
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uploadfromtaptalk1418564120941.jpg

I have an engine problem with my new carburetor. It is running only on choke and not for long. I installed the jet and e-tube of my old carb, may be I should try to put the jet that came with the new carb in it.


JP
 

2SlickNick

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Sounds like an air leak.
While it is running on choke, spray carb cleaner around manifold, and then listen for rpm changes. To isolate your air leak.
 

Poboy kartman

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Sounds like an air leak.
While it is running on choke, spray carb cleaner around manifold, and then listen for rpm changes. To isolate your air leak.

Possible......except for....."and not for long ".....air leaks will lean out the idle....making the choke necessary.....but usually don't stop running.....

The same symptoms point to a fuel delivery problem.....and those usually do only run for a short while.......

So.....either....replace the jet and e-tube with the new ones....or make sure the old ones are clean......

While you're at it....check the float...the float level....and make sure everything in the fuel system is clean.....
 

jeeperjoel

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Here's an update of my progression!

View attachment 54739
View attachment 54740
View attachment 54741

I have an engine problem with my new carburetor. It is running only on choke and not for long. I installed the jet and e-tube of my old carb, may be I should try to put the jet that came with the new carb in it.


JP

lookin good! can't help but notice, is that a 40 series comet? if so, unless you have a reverse wound tension spring on driven it's mounted backward... same thing happened to me... they go the opposite way vs. smaller units... a couple pics of my re-work, at the time i didn't know you can get a reverse wound spring...
 

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JPGraphX

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:oops: Gran Pann sent me the yellow spring. I'll have to change it !


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For my carb, I must assume there was a little difference between the two carb, as my old jet wasn't doing the job in the new carb. Using the carb as it comes solved my problem.

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I can't find a good thread that shows or recommend a way to align comet 40 series? Is there any?

Thanks!!

JP
 

jeeperjoel

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http://www.gokartsupply.com/4044seri.htm i used the first diagram, used a very straight ruler from center of driven to clutch to get the 3/8 offset measurement set, with a tape measure ensuring my distance shaft to shaft was correct, and a square constantly checking the alignment of shafts as i made adjustments, i spent a decent amount of time checking, and re-checking before i was satisfied with result... unsure if it's the best way, but it worked fine for me :) http://www.gokartsupply.com/tcbelts.htm ... used my belt's part # vs. this chart to obtain proper shaft to shaft distance
 

JPGraphX

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Thanks Jeeperjoel, I'll take a look at this.

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Here's a sketch of what I plan to do with my direction/suspension.



I talked with the welder at my shop and he think that welding a bolt grade 8 could make it brittle. What do you think about it and what should I do?

Thanks,
JP
 

jeeperjoel

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i welded my non suspension spindles, used 5/8 grade 8 blots, cut off head, beveled end for nearly full penetration, welded on then slid sleeves over spindle bolt and welded before welding on gusset, also used hardened steel inner sleeves for rotating area with zerk fitting, greasable so they don't wear in and get sloppy, sure these are non-suspension, but you'll probably want those inner sleeves more than me if it's also traveling up and down
 
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