Durability of billet aluminum wheel hubs

[Kartorbust]

So I've been searching for wheel hubs for my project and I've decided on using a 1 1/4" axle diameter. I've only found a 4on4 hub from BMI karts that fits the 1 1/4". I've chosen 4on4 since that's an easier wheel bolt pattern to locate than the 4x130 that VW bugs use. I'm making some changes to fit what I'm doing, one of which going to use Dana-Spicer 1310 u-joint and yoke with a 1 1/4" with 1/4" keyway. It's just going to be infinitely easier to do it this way than getting splines cut and run a splined and keyed spool. So now it's just all keyed and less of a headache.

So this is the hub setup I'm looking at. I'd prefer a steel setup just because I know steel will hold up to more abuse, but options are limited. So for I guess aggressive off road abuse, will this hub assembly hold up well, or should I look for a different hub? https://www.bmikarts.com/4-x-4-Billet-Aluminum-Wheel-Hub-1-14-Bore_p_1647.html

 

[Cowboy John]

I've had extremely good results with BMI's billet aluminum hubs. I think BMI manufactures many of the hubs they stock (go to "shop by brand", then look under BMI Karts, and you'll get a lot of billet aluminum stuff). I've used the 3-on-2.5 hubs, and they're absolutely bulletproof (here's the link: https://www.bmikarts.com/Lightened-Aluminum-Wheel-Rear-Hub-1-Bore_p_2535.html ). They're extremely hard and do not deform, even under abuse. Like, they're tougher than any billet aluminum I've gotten from ARC. I've used their billet brake hub as well; it looks more similar to the 4-on-4 wheel hub you're looking at. The brake hub I use isn't as hard as the wheel hubs I use; the alloy feels more akin to ARC's. Both will dent on the edges if you drop them on concrete etc, but if you install and use them like they're supposed to, they'll work great. Much better than a galvanized steel piece, in my opinion.

I actually had used a steel sprocket hub on my kart at one point; it was the "Unihub" from Azusa. It did not last nearly as well as as the billet pieces, and I was eventually forced to purchase ARC's billet sprocket hub because the Unihub was loose on the axle.

The billet hubs from BMI are split on one side, and you tighten them by tightening the screw that closes the gap some. I really like this feature. The result is a rock-solid bond between the hub and the axle. No set screws, no wobble, nothing. I've actually lost keys without knowing it because the hub stays on so tightly. The only thing is that you've got to make sure the axle and the hub bore are very very clean when you assemble them. Even so, it might not slide on like you'd expect, so you might have to tap a flathead screwdriver into the slot to widen it out.

Overall, I'd totally recommend the billet hubs for hard use.

 

[Karts of Kaos]

so do those hubs fit the 18-9-5 tires from their build your own tire kits?

 

[Kartorbust]

As long as the wheel/rim has 4 stud holes that are 4" apart, then it'll work. Another factor is getting the correct style lug nut, otherwise the whole thing will wobble like crazy (ask me how I know).

 

[Karts of Kaos]

how do you know

 

[Kartorbust]

A number of years ago in a previous life I worked at Tires Plus as a tire tech. A guy came in with I think was a Dodge Intrepid and wanted some police rims put on. Bolt pattern was fine, but his lug nuts were not the proper ones for the new wheels, as they were the stock lug nuts for the factory wheels. This made it so the wheel and tire to wobble as it wasn't properly seated. After figuring out what year the wheels were for, found the proper lug nuts and it worked well.