Drift trike frame done but need help

[WillMatrix]

Am I wrong or is this trike a little too low to the floor? Did I cut too much of the bmx down tube?

im having a problem when I turn the front of the trike frame hits the ground. It’s like the front has to much play with the up and down motion. Please help!!! I’m extremely new to the building anything scene and need some pointers.
Should I put the axel and bearings on the underside of the frame for it to stand higher? Do I need another bike and start again?

so I think the angle of the bmx bike was cut all wrong. I think I have it slant way to much

 

[madprofessor]

That geometry will definitely lay it on the ground, by a lot. You need to make a V-notch (a very thin slice to start) in the underside of the downtube, then bend the tube down to close and weld the notch. Notch has to be far enough down the downtube that the back of the wheel doesn't touch the downtube when done.
That will raise the frame higher to compensate for how it drops down when wheel gets turned sideways.
Then it'll get bent and lay you right back on the ground again.
Unless you weld some serious bracing, gussets, whatever to the back side and to the sides of that downtube connection to the frame. That single endpoint weld is not going to be strong enough.

 

[WillMatrix]

That geometry will definitely lay it on the ground, by a lot. You need to make a V-notch (a very thin slice to start) in the underside of the downtube, then bend the tube down to close and weld the notch. Notch has to be far enough down the downtube that the back of the wheel doesn't touch the downtube when done.
That will raise the frame higher to compensate for how it drops down when wheel gets turned sideways.
Then it'll get bent and lay you right back on the ground again.
Unless you weld some serious bracing, gussets, whatever to the back side and to the sides of that downtube connection to the frame. That single endpoint weld is not going to be strong enough.

Thank you so much. I actually switched up the front and totally replaced the Down tube with square tubing and changed the location of where the tube ends. I feel a lot better about the design now. I will post pics in the morning after I get everything all setup

 

[WillMatrix]

Just an update!!! This thing is crazy!!! I love it and it’s fun. But I really need to buy brakes because this bike brake isn’t working

 

[madprofessor]

That's a side-pull caliper on that wheel, notorious for lousy braking and/or scrubbing when released.
If you could get a cheap used center-pull caliper off of a donor bike somewhere, you could make it bust your teeth on the crossbar.

 

[WillMatrix]

That's a side-pull caliper on that wheel, notorious for lousy braking and/or scrubbing when released.
If you could get a cheap used center-pull caliper off of a donor bike somewhere, you could make it bust your teeth on the crossbar.

For real? I’m going to try and find one. I was thinking of doing the comet mechanical brake type thing with a brake handle on the side. Any thoughts on that?

 

[madprofessor]

Makes a great parking brake if the mechanical caliper is mounted on your axle sprocket, only the caliper and cable to buy.
Caliper on greasy sprocket not a good idea as primary brake, so brake disc has to be bought also. The money adds up.

 

[WillMatrix]

Makes a great parking brake if the mechanical caliper is mounted on your axle sprocket, only the caliper and cable to buy.
Caliper on greasy sprocket not a good idea as primary brake, so brake disc has to be bought also. The money adds up.

I was thinking the one I found from Amazon. I included the picture

 

[madprofessor]

That's a GPS (GoPowerSports) kit that GPS is selling for $10 less than Amazon, but if shipped to Florida for ex. would another $10.49.
If the money's there and a 1" axle, you can do it. But people have talked to me about the mechanicals, and advised me against it, hydraulic only.
Note: GPS sells a couple of handles like you mentioned for $30 each.

 

[WillMatrix]

Now I though about hydraulic brakes but I didn’t know how I would hook them up on a drift trike. Can you give me some pointers?

 

[madprofessor]

I can tell you one thing NOT to do. Several China sellers on ebay all sell under different names and similar prices a complete hydraulic setup with a master cylinder, caliper, and a 18" brake line between them, about $21 if you're willing to wait 6 weeks to get it from China. Ready to operate as is. I did it, and here's why I regretted it.............
The single cylinder master has a wobble-all-around plunger shaft, so you have to rig linkage that will drive it in dead straight. Least problem.
Biggest thing is trying to add (DOT#4) fluid to it from its end. If mounted horizontal, of course it would be, you have to unmount it, turn it end up, remove the cap and refill. Only about half a teaspoon. Put it all back together.
Imagine trying to bleed brakes like that. I needed to because I replaced the 18" line with a 84" line. Ordered a master cylinder just like it for $15 (from American seller, got it in 5 days), but with a tube coming out of the top to a reservoir cup that you watch go down as you pump, refill in seconds, brakes done.
Do NOT get any master cylinder without a reservoir you can top off in place.
For your trike, need linkage that pushes (cables don't), unlike that mechanical caliper (it pulls with a cable). Instead of that, I'd say a handlebar-mounted lever unit for motorcycle front brakes.

 

[WillMatrix]

I can tell you one thing NOT to do. Several China sellers on ebay all sell under different names and similar prices a complete hydraulic setup with a master cylinder, caliper, and a 18" brake line between them, about $21 if you're willing to wait 6 weeks to get it from China. Ready to operate as is. I did it, and here's why I regretted it.............
The single cylinder master has a wobble-all-around plunger shaft, so you have to rig linkage that will drive it in dead straight. Least problem.
Biggest thing is trying to add (DOT#4) fluid to it from its end. If mounted horizontal, of course it would be, you have to unmount it, turn it end up, remove the cap and refill. Only about half a teaspoon. Put it all back together.
Imagine trying to bleed brakes like that. I needed to because I replaced the 18" line with a 84" line. Ordered a master cylinder just like it for $15 (from American seller, got it in 5 days), but with a tube coming out of the top to a reservoir cup that you watch go down as you pump, refill in seconds, brakes done.
Do NOT get any master cylinder without a reservoir you can top off in place.
For your trike, need linkage that pushes (cables don't), unlike that mechanical caliper (it pulls with a cable). Instead of that, I'd say a handlebar-mounted lever unit for motorcycle front brakes.

Would this be the reservoir on the cylinder you were talking about? If I was to get this and a rotor will I be set?

 

[madprofessor]

Yes, add a rotor of your axle size to that hand brake setup and you're golden.