Comet 30 series alignment

Craig.andrews1818

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I have a 30 series and you can see in the picture there are spacers towards the engine. I need to remove two spacers in order to get the alignment right. However, when I do this it will create a gap on the left side highlighted in green where the bolt enters the engine shaft. Can I add washers to the left side in green or will this cause and issue with the whole torque converter?
 

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JimD

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Did you build your own mounting plate for the driven unit? There should not be any spacers behind the fixed sheave on the engine. So what if there is a gap on the crank, that is the way Comet designed it originally on the bolt hold it on the engine. Max-Torque filled in the gap so the driver would be fully supported with an insert we had made up in powder metal.
 

bullseye670

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I may be missing somthing here but why would you put a stack of washers under the crank bolt? Go to the hardware store and buy the correct length bolt? Make sure you get the correct pitch (fine thread).
 

Craig.andrews1818

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Hey guys - I am a little confused. If the washers are not in place between the engine and torque converter, the torque converter would just slide all over the engine shaft, correct me if I am wrong? The washers are there so that the belt lines up properly. If it was all the way up against the engine the converter would be directly over the chain and wouldn’t work.

Good call on the shorter bolt….that seems to be the answer, but let me know if that’s an issue having the washers by the engine.
 

JimD

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Bullseye you are correct you certain could do the same thing with washers that are as close to .749OD and a 5/16ID. The stack would be about .780"" tall or use as penny for height which is exactly .750 in diameter. The bolt is fine thread 5/16-24 that is 1 3/4" under the head and you use a 1" OD flat washer with a 5/16 ID and a lock washer to hold the driver unit on the engine, if it is a Comet, Max-Torque, or those knock-offs from some foreign land.
 

bullseye670

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Craig, in a lot of cases I believe the Driver is up against the shoulder on the crank next to the engine. Usually a short spacer is needed to align the driver to the driven. You shouldn't be using a stack of washers. Like everyone says, use machine bushings. Every hardware store should have them. I find out what size pipe fits the shaft(I forget) and cut then sand on a disc the exact length needed. Better than a stack of anything.
 

JimD

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Bullseye, you are not reading the suggestion correctly. I am talking about the void on the end of the crankshaft under the flat washer holding the driver unit on the crank. When people crank down the bolt with no support they cave in the flat washer and then cock the cover over the weights. The attached picture is what I was talking about that can be accomplished by using some washers. Sorry it wasn't easily understood, old people get that way when they think everyone knows what they are talking about. ALL THIS PIECE NEEDS NOW IS THE BOLT AND A LOCK WASHER and it helps to keep the driver centered when torque down. The washers that I am saying shouldn't be there are the ones on the front of the crank by the step in the crank in his original picture.
 

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