Chain Size and application.

Colemanman

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So i see mini bikes and go karts commonly use #420, #40, 41# 35# and the occasional #50. And id like to get a better understanding on what chain is best for a particular application.

Does any one use #40 or #41 chain on their machines? I dont see that many options for the two, but ive been using #40 on my mini bikes because i dont have to order it online.

35# seems to be the more racey choice, with more gear ratio options. I have that chain size on my azusa 10 inch rim minibike kit.

#420 is thinner than #40 but has the same height and side plates, wouldnt that make it weaker than #40? Whats the advantages of both?

$41 from what i hear is light weight version of #40 chain

What application would you use a particular chain size for?
Would you use 35# on a big block engine, or would that put to much torque on the chain?
Can you tell a difference in power loss between #40, #41, or #420,
Any reasons one would use #420 over #35 chain if the chain can sufficiently take the power?
And finally does #35 chain cause faster sprocket and chain wear do to not having chain rollers?

Sorry for all the questions, but i like to learn the whens and whys of everything and enjoy learning the more technical side of things. Thanks for reading and replying? Have a good day
 

madprofessor

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You're more versed in the various numbers than myself, mainly because I went out of my way to study all of that, and have since forgotten most of what I read. Here's some bits that stuck:
#40 and #41 are heavier chains than #35, and are not quite compatible. The sprocket for one of them will only fit properly with that size chain. The sprocket for the other one will accept either chain. Definitely find out which is so particular, and don't use it. It's already harder to find a good variety of sprockets for those as opposed to #35 chain. Being stuck with a picky chain or sprocket would make that worse.
#410 is right in there with #40 and #41 on sprocket and chains discussion. Can't remember what made it different.
I do know that the #35 chains and sprockets I use have their limitations, though I haven't reached it yet. Maybe. Got my last Predator 212 hot-rodded up to about 12 hp. with no strain apparent on the chain or sprockets. It didn't actually get put to the test though. That minibike was purpose-built to kill people, and it terrified me. Couldn't wring it out on a test without dying.
The current one is even hotter, 15+ hp., but safely mounted on four wheels. Still a few days from the first test run, but when it happens what will be getting looked at is obviously any wear on the sprockets, like folding over of the sprocket peaks, or side wear on the peaks. The other thing less apparent to some people is chain stretch. They think it's normal to regularly have to tighten their chains, that things just get loose. Not on my builds. I fully expect to get chain stretch on my primary (12-tooth to 24-tooth), but less on my secondary (24-tooth to 60-tooth). Not things getting out of adjustment, but true chain stretch.
#35 chains will stretch worse than the heavier 40-series ones, just look at the first number. Starting with a 3 is 3/8", and 4 is 4/8" (or 1/2"). Or similar, but same ballpark, starting with a 3 is only 75% of the ones starting with a 4. I'll gauge the condition of my #35 chains based on how far and how often they need to be adjusted. Maybe there will be enough to convince me that next time it'll be (either) #40 or #41.
There's really only 1 or 2 decisions you need to make about those chains and sprockets. First is will #35 get the job done? If so, you decide to use it and be done. If the first decision is for heavier chain, then that's accepting that if a "torque converter" is to be added it will be the heavier and more expensive one. The second decision should be which is the more compatible chain and has better choices available.
 

Colemanman

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Very good information man thank you. I have a tillitson 212e thats about 11.hp right now and thats cool #35 coule potentially hold up. I use #35 chain on my azusa minibike with a pumped upHonda GX160 and it does fine. I would use it with a clutch no problem but i would probably go 40# instead on a converter due to the higher torque load. I've been reading about chain stretch too and read the chain itself actually doesnt stretch but its wear to the rollers and pins in the chain that causes it to slightly "stretch". Then i also learned about #41 chain being weaker than #35 chain and has less tensile strength. #41 also stands shorter than #40/#420 and has slightly thinner side plates than #420. chain. #41 chain is also known as light weight chain. #40 stands just as tall as #420 chain bit is wider. Ive noticed there isnt much performance #40 chain like there is premium #420 chain. Its cool learning about chains and there little nuances and intricacies. Thers a lot of science going on in the way they move and wear, its very cool **** to learn about. I personally use tractor supply chain because its easily avalible and doesnt need to be ordered online. I havent really had much problems with chains falling off or loosening up. I have to usally adjust them about every once a week, but i do ride them alot. I also religiously keep em lubed and proper tension so theve been good to me.
 

madprofessor

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About that lube: If you've ever raced dirt bikes you're probably already aware of the various chain lubes. I used to only use dirt lubes on my bikes because it's sling-off-thin, with excellent penetration. That keeps dirt from clumping in the rollers. Currently using "chain and cable" lube on the gokarts, an experiment, and found it to run off fairly well, and makes a good rinser too. Since a 60-tooth, much less a 72-tooth, live-axle sprocket on 4.10/3.50/6 tires is only a couple inches off the floor, the chain is always going to dig down into dirt and sand when boonie-crashing. Like my dirt bikes, need to keep it from clumping. Just need to spray on more lube every time I crank it up, just to be sure.
 
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