Carter super kart live axle question

[madprofessor]

I can appreciate the wisdom in the washer rule as it would apply to the threaded side of the heim (in your application anyway). If the nut underneath was small enough to pass through the resulting eye, the rod would fall right off.
The fact that there's no washer anywhere that could save you if the ball popped out of a ball joint, that's the reason I chose the heims.

 

[Guitarjr]

This is the great grandson that I’m building the go kart for. I let the cat out of the bag and he wanted to check it out. Just turned 3 years old and was super excited. I even got a thumbs up!!! All his rides right now are battery powered but paw paw is going to introduce him to fossil fuel!!!

 

[madprofessor]

You need to become intimately familiar with setting the throttle limiting adjustment screw for the little daredevil.
I'd also recommend making the brakes hydraulic disc brakes, as they require the least effort of his little leg's push to stop the kart.

 

[gmo1515]

You need to become intimately familiar with setting the throttle limiting adjustment screw for the little daredevil.
I'd also recommend making the brakes hydraulic disc brakes, as they require the least effort of his little leg's push to stop the kart.

I'll second the throttle stop. That is what that collar on the throttle rod to the right of the seat is for. Mine has the same thing but being a two seater it is positioned under the seat. An Allen set screw will secure the stop where you want it. The modern Honda clone engines also have a throttle stop screw on the governor throttle linkage too but the collar may be a slight but more "tamper proof" for a young rider (until they find out where your Allen wrenches are at in the toolbox). You'll want enough throttle to get the clutch to engage but with him being that young I wouldn't go too much more than that until he gets used to it and gains some experience. Of course, this depends on what kind of room you all have in your yard/driveway to run around in.

Carter live axles were enclosed in the frame tube so converting it to a hydraulic disk may be a challenge without some surgery. As good as that old frame looks I'd hate to hack it up too much. As lightweight as he is though and if the throttle stop is set up to limit how much trouble he can get into the band brake ought to be sufficient.

-Jason

 

[gmo1515]

Got a little more work done on the go kart. Just wanted to post some pics. Got some tires from tractor supply but not real happy with them so I’m going to load the kart up and take it with me next time to try some different sizes. Changed out some hardware in the front end and got those tires off the rear axle. Going to keep the live axle and was able to get it cleaned up and putting new bearings in also. I need a brake pedal if someone has a extra one they want to sell??? Still have plenty to figure out but not going to give up. Thanks for all the info so far!

Gopowersports does have OEM style Carter brake and throttle pedals (left and right hand).

Carter / Universal Brake Pedal

The Carter/Universal Brake Pedal is a high-quality replacement part that is designed to fit most vehicles. This brake pedal is made from durable materials that are built to withstand rigorous use, ensuring reliable and long-lasting performance. It is designed to be easy to install, making it a...

www.gopowersports.com

Carter / Universal Throttle Pedal

The Carter/Universal Throttle Pedal is a top-quality replacement part that is designed to fit most vehicles. This throttle pedal is made from durable materials that are built to withstand rigorous use, ensuring reliable and long-lasting performance. It is designed to be easy to install, making...

www.gopowersports.com

Or you can buy them as a pair and save a couple of bucks:

Vintage Go Kart Pedals

The Vintage Go Kart Pedals are an excellent addition to any go-kart enthusiast's collection. These pedals are made from high-quality materials and are designed to provide a comfortable and responsive driving experience. They have a classic design that gives them a vintage look and feel, making...

www.gopowersports.com

-Jason

 

[madprofessor]

A thought occurs...............Has anyone ever tried to adjust a governor linkage setup to reduce its max rpm, in place of limiting the throttle?
That would provide full throttle power, but still limit the top end speed to something safer.
I can imagine adjusting the governor down from 3600 rpm to something like 2000 rpm, whatever rpm would equal the max speed you want it to go. Example: If 2000 rpm gave you 15 mph, adjusting the governor to limit at 2000 rpm would give the kart that neck-jerking acceleration from zero, then suddenly levels off at 15 mph. You can still floor it for full power, but it won't go any faster.

 

[Guitarjr]

Thanks guys for all the great advise. I’ll get more done this weekend and post some pics

 

[Hellion]

I like what gmo1515 did on his Carter Brothers restoration and now demand that you Guitarjr restore your kart to the same standard.
That repro floor pan decal looks like the bee's knees. . .

Your frame has a lot of rust pitting but you can grind it down, treat it with a rust neutralizer and fill in the craters with Bondo or other filler.
The steering wheel is pretty toasted too but can be given the same Bondo treatment, repainted and maybe Plasti-Dip'ed to re-create the rubber grip.

On the other hand, I think this is a direct replacement wheel with the same "deep dish": https://www.ebay.com/itm/261497619693?hash=item3ce27904ed:g:3cEAAMXQyY1TRuhe

 

[gmo1515]

Hellion,
Thanks so much for the compliments. Since I had a lot of sentimental attachment to that kart, I wanted to make sure that it looked proper. You are correct that some welding and body filler can make a huge difference with pitted metal. I had mine powder coated for extra durability but the downside is that you cannot use plastic body filler in your surface prep. My dad and I used his MIG welder to fill in some pitted locations but it you can still see some places. I will say there were some other pitted spots on the floor board that I wished I had done as the metal was thinner than I thought and they turned into some pinholes after it was media blasted before the powder coat went on.

I think you are right about that replacement steering wheel. It sure looks like the same one. Mask off the rim and paint the center silver and I think you’ll be in business!

Jason

 

[Guitarjr]

Thanks for the replies. Great info and suggestions too. Got a little more done today between laying tile down and some trim work. Got the rear axle out and it’s toast. Didn’t get a chance to pull the bearings so I guess tomorrow on that. The 3/16” key way on one side is banged out of whack. I guess I’ll go back with a 3/4” axle since that is what it came with. Does anybody have the bearing numbers??? I’m not seeing any numbers on these bearings so far but they will get pulled tomorrow. Used my matco 2” air grinder with scuff pads on the bottom and shot some rattle can primer on it till I cut the floor pan out and sandblast the frame. Got a carb coming for the predator 212 and should be able to get it going. Still have a lot to do and here are some pics

 

[Denny]

If you can try to go with a 1” axle. Less chance of bending.

 

[Hellion]

I can see (nor read) anything overly wrong with the rear axle. Just clean it up and re-use. No need to "reinvent the wheel" on this kart rebuild unless it is truly trashed, or worse, bent. A bend would be hard to correct.

If the axle keyway is really hogged out and a new key is really wobbly when inserted, perhaps you can weld it up and *re-broach* the keyway back to specifications. Do you weld?

Finding out the bearing size is a no brainer; ID is known to be 3/4" and the OD is...?
Is it 1 5/8"?

Is it this: https://www.gopowersports.com/3-4-id-precision-ball-bearings-1-5-8-od/

If you can try to go with a 1” axle. Less chance of bending.

His axle rides in a tube. It's unlikely it would accept a 1" axle and the bearings it rides on.
This isn't Evel Knievel's rocket Skycycle and his grandson isn't Evel. It'll be fine.

 

[Hellion]

I found a parts manual for it. I'm guessing it's a model 1215, aka Super Wheels® as has already been stated.
http://www.gokartparts.us/pdfs/carterpdfs/1215.pdf

Part #26 states it is 'Bearing (1 5/8" OD x 3/4" ID)' so that's the factory spec and I was right.

 

[Guitarjr]

Thanks for the help and link. Yes I weld and will make some time this week to work more on it. I’m right in the middle of a reno so time is kinda tight. I appreciate all the help and will post more pics of the progress. I know y’all like pics.

 

[Guitarjr]

Had some time today so I banged the bearings out. A little heat and a piece of threaded rod did the trick. You would know the bearing numbers were facing on the inside. There is enough room for a 1” axle but already ordered the bearings so I’m gonna use the 3/4” axle. Should be ok. My friend has a milling machine at his shop and is going to cut me a new keyway opposite the original one and clean up the threads so we’ll see how that works out. Found a small crack on the motor mount that I’m going to weld up after I sand blast the frame. Previous owner cut off the stud for the brake shoe so I got to weld a new stud on. Slow but sure it’s going to come back together. Thanks for all the input and suggestions. They are greatly appreciated.

 

[madprofessor]

Room for a 1" axle, but 3/4" bearings on order? Every supplier sells 1" axles with stepped down 3/4" threaded ends. If you're lucky enough for the available lengths to fit your cart, you could use that. Running that myself on my current 15+ hp. kart.
On the other hand, I'd order 1" bearings with O.D. to fit your application, and try to return the 3/4" The cost is so little to be able to have that 1" axle, and not end up with the dreaded David "Bowie" axle............... bowed, bent, and unpredictable.

 

[Guitarjr]

I appreciate the input but after thinking about it I’m going to stay with the 3/4” axle. I figured I would try it first and could upgrade at a later date when I can throw more money at it. Right now I’m on a shoestring budget. The axle is getting done at no cost. I have the 60 tooth sprocket already and just need a hub and brake drum. And I’m reusing the rear wheels and tires once I clean them up and add some tubes. Waiting on a carb for the engine and will piece it back together. I’m going to add 3 pics of when I first saw it. I knew I had to save it. The bones looked good and I figured with y’alls help I could get it up and running. Will work more on it this weekend and add pics too!!!

 

[madprofessor]

Great look with those tires, always liked the staggered setups. Nice tread patterns on them too, good traction, look new.

 

[Guitarjr]

Yeah madpro. I like that look also. Gonna try to use them. Still got parts to order. Got some time to work on the motor. Got the clutch off and pulled the screws out of the muffler cover. They put up a good fight but I prevailed. Still have a broken bolt to get out. Got a couple pics. Also need someone to Id this other cart I’m looking at picking up. Manco??? Yerf dog??? Hopefully someone knows!!!