Can this Switch Be Made?!?! Tomberlin

[Role]

I have a Tomberlin Go Kart and a Vector Go Kart.

The torque converter on this Vector Go Kart, I HATE. I wish Comet Industries would have figured out a better way to drive the driven pulley rather than these horrible nylon insert buttons inside the cam. They wear too easily and it sucks to not be able to ride around because you need a nylon button. Could they not have used a material or something else that is more commonly obtainable on a local level?

There isn't a single place in the entire Metro-Jackson area in the state of Mississippi that carries them. Not advanced auto parts, O'reillys, small engine specialists, etc, etc. I even called go kart places and they don't carry them.

It's extremely frustrating that you cannot buy these simple little nylon buttons anywhere locally. And i really don't want to wait a week to receive them.

So my plan .. I want to take the clutch off the Tomberlin go kart and place it on the Vector Go Kart. Obviously the chain is much bigger on my Tomberlin, so I would switch the sprocket.

Does anyone think this would be fairly simple?

I took a few pics. Would this switch also give the vector a forward and reverse because I would obviously take the gear lever off the Tomberlin as well to make it work and switch into gear.


Your help is appreciated! Or any other ideas. i took a picture of the side of the tomberlin go kart and a picture of the vector.

The first two pictures are the Tomberlin - the last picture would be the Vector setup (the one I will be using)

 

[itsid]

No you can't just simply use the CVT of the left kart as a replacement for a Comet TC.
For the buttons..
Role made the little buttons himself with JB Weld Kwik plastik and said it works well. (7th post)

The little box in the middle picture is the F&R gearbox, if you attach that to a different kart, that kart will have a reverse gear, yes.

'sid

 

[Role]

JB Weld qwikplastic does work well.. And I didn't make one button from it, I made 3 buttons. However, Im looking for something that will be permanent and that I won't have to replace often.

 

[OzFab]

Another point to consider is the Tomberlin also uses a torque converter setup; unless I'm mistaken, the engine on it is a GY6 which has an internal (of sorts) torque converter under the left side cover

 

[J_Walker]

Couldn't you use brass instead? I'm not really sure what these things look like.. but it seems to me that nylon is the cheap way to go - even more so then brass. because when they make folding knives, instead of using copper/brass spacers, they'll use this crappy plastic nylon ones. I've always replaced the nylon washers on my knives. Its a thought at least, and if you're careful, I've heard people milling brass stuff on decent wood lathes.

 

[firemanjim]

Couldn't you use brass instead? I'm not really sure what these things look like.. but it seems to me that nylon is the cheap way to go - even more so then brass. because when they make folding knives, instead of using copper/brass spacers, they'll use this crappy plastic nylon ones. I've always replaced the nylon washers on my knives. Its a thought at least, and if you're careful, I've heard people milling brass stuff on decent wood lathes.

WHOA..... NEVER USE A MACHINE FOR SOMETHING OTHER THAN WHAT IT WAS INTENDED FOR..... We can not condone or suggest un-safe acts on here. The button in reference is round on one end and kinda a square with a slope to it on the other. Its small and I'mpretty sure you cant make one outta brass on a wood lathe,as it spins wood between 2 centers, leavingyou no way to make a square shape. (Machinist by trade,fireman for stress relief)
One COULD how ever , "whittle" some out of bar stock aluminum using a dremel tool and or die grinder and a file...... malleable yet strong enough to be used as button material. .... IMO

 

[landuse]

No, you cannot just swap the TC's. It will not work well. The 2 engines and TC's work at different RPM ranges and engagement RPM's (as far as I know)

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I'm left wondering WHY you're blowing through these cam buttons so frequently. I've never heard such a complaint. Yes, they are a wearable, replaceable part- no, I don't think they oughta wear that quickly. If I were you, I'd be more concerned about the disease, rather than the symptom. Now, while I have no experience with the 30 (TAV2), I have plenty of experience with the 40, and have done my best to beat the snot out of it. After all was said and done, 3 years of just punishing it, the buttons are still in great shape.

 

[philip metzner]

I'm left wondering WHY you're blowing through these cam buttons so frequently. I've never heard such a complaint. Yes, they are a wearable, replaceable part- no, I don't think they oughta wear that quickly. If I were you, I'd be more concerned about the disease, rather than the symptom. Now, while I have no experience with the 30 (TAV2), I have plenty of experience with the 40, and have done my best to beat the snot out of it. After all was said and done, 3 years of just punishing it, the buttons are still in great shape.

Doc, here is what happens. With accumulated wear the buttons get to close to the top of the cam peaks. Then when you take off it shears off the buttons and twists the spring and usually tears off the lock ring. I have repaired them before by just using shims in the right places. My hands hurt so bad now i just cant type more. If thats what has happened I'll tell how to fix it.

 

[landuse]

Doc, here is what happens. With accumulated wear the buttons get to close to the top of the cam peaks. Then when you take off it shears off the buttons and twists the spring and usually tears off the lock ring. I have repaired them before by just using shims in the right places. My hands hurt so bad now i just cant type more. If thats what has happened I'll tell how to fix it.

I would just get new buttons online somewhere and enjoy your TC for a few more years "button problems" free

 

[itsid]

JB Weld qwikplastic does work well.. And I didn't make one button from it, I made 3 buttons. However, Im looking for something that will be permanent and that I won't have to replace often.

I'm sorry, didn't paid much attention who was asking obviously

If you want to throw money at it,
get some ptfe to make new buttons,
ptfe will not wear as fast as nylon but if there's something wrong with the TC, it still wont help much.

if the buttons are wearing too fast just because you made them yourself with the wrong material...
well, buy originals?!

I would also make sure, that the contact surface to the buttons is smooth so that the button will not get damaged by scratches or dents.

'sid

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Doc, here is what happens. With accumulated wear the buttons get to close to the top of the cam peaks. Then when you take off it shears off the buttons and twists the spring and usually tears off the lock ring. I have repaired them before by just using shims in the right places. My hands hurt so bad now i just cant type more. If thats what has happened I'll tell how to fix it.

Agreed, and thanks. But the OP made it sound like the cam button wear is both frequent, and rapid. This cannot be normal.

 

[Role]

Doc, here is what happens. With accumulated wear the buttons get to close to the top of the cam peaks. Then when you take off it shears off the buttons and twists the spring and usually tears off the lock ring. I have repaired them before by just using shims in the right places. My hands hurt so bad now i just cant type more. If thats what has happened I'll tell how to fix it.

Yes, that is the problem

 

[philip metzner]

Ok, first if you replace the driven unit and service the driver and belt you wont have any more problems for a long time. That being said its not hard to repair to get some more life out of it. You have to get some new buttons, so inspect everything and get what you need at one time. Service or clean the driver and stuff.
What causes this is wear allows the moveable sheave face to come to close to the fixed face. That puts the buttons in a undesirable place on the cam. You need some machine bushings from the hardware store. They are just thin shim washers. Slide the cam, moveable sheave, and the sleeve bushing off the fixed sheave. Thats where the first shim goes. If I remember right you may have to choose this shim by its O.D. and grind the I.D. to fit. The reason is you dont want the belt to be able to contact the shim when it shifts down there. You also want the sleeve bushing that slides on to trap the shim in place. After that if you reassemble the thing you will see the buttons are further down on the cam. Use two shims if you have to but one will probably do it. Then reassemble everything and you want a stack of shims that will fit on top of the lock ring, and stack up untill they are flush with the unit where the nut goes on. also you want a nice 5\8 washer to place on top of the shims. You put the driven unit back on the shaft and place the stack of shims on top of the lock ring, then the 5\8 washer, then the nut. That way the nut holds the lock ring on, because most likely the groove is damaged. Check the location of the buttons on the cam and if the are located where they should be, then your done. It shounds like a lot of trouble but it really isnt.

 

[philip metzner]

How did this work out? Did you get it fixed? I ask because the outcome may help other people as well with similar problems.

 

[landuse]

How did this work out? Did you get it fixed? I ask because the outcome may help other people as well with similar problems.

Dude, you don't expect him to do it in a couple of days. I bet he hasn't even started because of all the advice he got