Axle Help

[Bamboo24]

Rookie here. But bought a 1" axle with a 3/4" threaded section on each end. Keyway the full length of the axle. I bought hubs for my wheels that fit onto with a keyway as well. Here's the question. How to I mount my wheels to be sure they won't be moving and most importantly, do I need an axle nut on the end, or anything to keep everything secure?

Parts im using:

40" x 1" Axle Rod for Go-Karts + Free Shipping

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Amazon.com: OMB Warehouse (2) 1" Drift Trike Go Kart Live Axle Billet Aluminum Rear Wheel Hubs w/Hardware : Automotive

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[Denny]

Yes you need nuts on the ends of the axle! Just what are you working on?

 

[madprofessor]

There's nuts and there's axle nuts. Axle nuts have a nylon insert in them (nylock nuts), and are often half the thickness of plain old nuts, and have a fine thread as opposed to a coarse thread..............3/4" Axle Lock Nut (3/4-16) | 400059 | BMI Karts And Parts
You can't fit 1" hubs to 3/4" axle ends. If your hubs are 3/4", you can stack washers to make sure you don't run out of threads before the nut on the outside tightens down. Washers behind the hub aren't necessary, but I always put one there.
If your hubs are 1", you should use double-split locking collars on both sides of the hubs to keep them from migrating on the axle.
1" Bore Double Split Shaft Collar Black Oxide Set Screw Style (4 PCS) 6917521842078 | eBay

 

[Denny]

Don’t use split locking collars to keep the axle centered! They won’t hold it under abuse. Instead use a proper length of thin wall tubing or even pipe between the bearing and wheel over the axle.

 

[madprofessor]

Denny's right about using pipe over the axle as a spacer to keep things locked together. Every locked-down-to-the-axle part then shares that tension with other parts that are also locked down. Example: If using setscrews in the bearings to secure them to the axle, and setscrews on the sprocket hub, and setscrews on a brake disc etc., and you cut pieces of common 1" water pipe from hardware store as slide=on spacers between those parts, everything would have to slide on the axle at the same time if any one part moves, a very strong setup.
You made a small error getting a stepdown axle (3/4" stepdown) and 1" wheel hubs (NOTE: I did the same thing for the rear on purpose, because bigger is better in most cases). Your 3/4" axle nuts can only secure things on itself, like 3/4" wheel hubs. You can cut 1" pipe to go between the outside of your 1" wheel hubs and extend out over the 3/4" threads. Then you can use oversized washers with your 3/4" axle nuts to secure things from sliding in that direction. But..............
You also have to have the inside of that wheel hub butted up with pipe to parts on that side that also are locked down, to keep it from sliding in that direction.
I still think you should use double-split collars everywhere you can fit one in, cutting spacers out of 1" pipe to include room for the collars. More is better when it comes to preventing side to side motion.

 

[Bamboo24]

Yes you need nuts on the ends of the axle! Just what are you working on?

Working on an electric drift trike. Not sure how the whole axle assembly is supposed to go together. Any tips would be appreciated.

 

[Bamboo24]

Denny's right about using pipe over the axle as a spacer to keep things locked together. Every locked-down-to-the-axle part then shares that tension with other parts that are also locked down. Example: If using setscrews in the bearings to secure them to the axle, and setscrews on the sprocket hub, and setscrews on a brake disc etc., and you cut pieces of common 1" water pipe from hardware store as slide=on spacers between those parts, everything would have to slide on the axle at the same time if any one part moves, a very strong setup.
You made a small error getting a stepdown axle (3/4" stepdown) and 1" wheel hubs (NOTE: I did the same thing for the rear on purpose, because bigger is better in most cases). Your 3/4" axle nuts can only secure things on itself, like 3/4" wheel hubs. You can cut 1" pipe to go between the outside of your 1" wheel hubs and extend out over the 3/4" threads. Then you can use oversized washers with your 3/4" axle nuts to secure things from sliding in that direction. But..............
You also have to have the inside of that wheel hub butted up with pipe to parts on that side that also are locked down, to keep it from sliding in that direction.
I still think you should use double-split collars everywhere you can fit one in, cutting spacers out of 1" pipe to include room for the collars. More is better when it comes to preventing side to side motion.

I'm not sure what you are explaining with going over the 3/4" threads, do you have any pictures or anything that would help? I think I got it, but i want to make sure. If this isn't the best setup, what axle should I have gotten? Thanks for the support!

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Not sure there is enough thread to set up like this without using several washers. Like others have said, you'll need collars or pipe spacers to keep these hubs in place longitudinally on the axle.

 

[Functional Artist]

You don't want the wheels drifting side to side (or off)
...or the axle "sliding" around on the bearings
...or the sprocket (or rotor) "sliding" around on the axle

So, like others have commented, you're going to have to use some method of keeping everything "in place" (lock collars or spacers)
...but & also,

How about some pics of your project?


* I like to use "spacers" like this (just a simple, low-cost piece of steel tube or pipe, cut to the appropriate length)


Here is a pic of a "spacer" in between the bearing & wheel on my Hell-raiser kart

Short, sweet & to the point
...& when painted, they give it a nice-n-professional look too

 

[Willie1]

View attachment 133192
Not sure there is enough thread to set up like this without using several washers. Like others have said, you'll need collars or pipe spacers to keep these hubs in place longitudinally on the axle.

Personally, I would weld a heavy 3/4" I.D. washer (indicated in red) onto the hub to retain it onto the axle shaft. Lock collar (green) prohibits side to side of axle. Floating spacer (red) retains key stock.

 

[Denny]

Do not weld anything to anything in the rear!

 

[Willie1]

Do not weld anything to anything in the rear!

HUH?
You are welding a steel washer onto a steel hub, the same type of welding the entire chassis is constructed from.
You are not welding the hub itself onto the axle. Remove the nut and the welded washer/hub slides off the end of the axle.
Even if the weld failed, the hub would still be retained by the other washer and the locknut.

 

[madprofessor]

Here's that same basic thing ready-made..............4 x 4 Wheel Stepdown Hub (1" step-down-to 3/4" Bore) | K260053 | BMI Karts And Parts

 

[Denny]

HUH?
You are welding a steel washer onto a steel hub, the same type of welding the entire chassis is constructed from.
You are not welding the hub itself onto the axle. Remove the nut and the welded washer/hub slides off the end of the axle.
Even if the weld failed, the hub would still be retained by the other washer and the locknut.

Ok, I must have read it wrong. Sorry. But why even weld the washer?

 

[Willie1]

Without welding the washer - If you don't get your stack-up of the washers, spacers, etc. spot on, the hub can slide side to side on the axle, potentially causing wear or noise. The side load of the hub is transmitted through the spacer to the lock collar.
Welding the washer keeps the side load in the axle.

You can also tack weld the keyway into the hub and eliminate the need for the spacer.

Bottom line is that there are many ways to mount the hub and I was just tossing one up which I have used in the past that hadn't been suggested.