ARC Rod Bearing Replacement

JTSpeedDemon

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I just slather pieces with a profuse amount of motor oil. The only things that are changing is the con rod assembly, the bore and piston don't need to break in, etc.
There's an old mechanic guru I know who can prove how much a difference it makes to work oil into the surface of metal pieces, it makes a huge difference when there's oil permeating it. Should be plenty of lube for the first start up. It's not like I'm going to be revving it up much for the first hour or two of run time anyway. This method worked fine on the Hothead.
 

Flyinhillbilly

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I just checked in on this. It made me grin to see this coming together.
That little motor was a ripper and I have no doubt that it’ll be thoroughly enjoyed.

I’m gathering parts for a new engine that I think you guys will enjoy seeing the build of, so I’ll do a thread on it once I get a little closer.

all I’ll say for now is that it’s going to be a BIG bore stroker.
 
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Denny

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Big bore short stroke I hope. Good to see you back again FHB. Do you still have the dyno? Have you perfected it yet?
 
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Flyinhillbilly

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Big bore short stroke I hope. Good to see you back again FHB. Do you still have the dyno? Have you perfected it yet?
I wore it out to the point that the pump puked oil all over everything near it every time I used it. Then I cut it up and made a welding cart out of it.
 

redflash

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The question I seriously can't figure out ......how do you get a torque wrench into the case fir the final torque ? I can see pre torqing in a vice for plastigage reading......I can barely get an end wrench in a 212 case to tighten the rod caps.....with no torque reading.
 

JTSpeedDemon

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The question I seriously can't figure out ......how do you get a torque wrench into the case fir the final torque ? I can see pre torqing in a vice for plastigage reading......I can barely get an end wrench in a 212 case to tighten the rod caps.....with no torque reading.
Get yerself a nice Craftsman deflection-type torque wrench. With the specified 1/4" 12 point socket it clears the case with a little bit of room, but not much. Enough to work with though.
 

redflash

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I cant find ANY 1/4 drive, beam style torque wrenches that do over 80 inch pounds,,,,the arc rod needs a final tighten of 200 inch pounds.
does yours do that ? and if so...what brand and part # please
Tanks
Da flash
 

jmaack

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I cant find ANY 1/4 drive, beam style torque wrenches that do over 80 inch pounds,,,,the arc rod needs a final tighten of 200 inch pounds.
does yours do that ? and if so...what brand and part # please
Tanks
Da flash
heard of harbor freight? Not the best but they do work and are with in tolerance for the first several times you use them. They do degrade but for single cylinder a
small engines will last near a life time. Ratchet style.
 

redflash

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I should own harbor freight...but their torque wrenches are NOT "Beam Style" they are "rachet style" ...
JT speed demon was talking about "Beam Style........not ratchet' Tanks anyhoo

The question is..... has anyone found a Beam Style torque wrench that achieves 200 inch pounds ?

Da Flash
 

JTSpeedDemon

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I cant find ANY 1/4 drive, beam style torque wrenches that do over 80 inch pounds,,,,the arc rod needs a final tighten of 200 inch pounds.
does yours do that ? and if so...what brand and part # please
Tanks
Da flash
Try Craftsman 44690. 3/8" drive. It's what I use, and goes up to 75 ft/lbs. Great wrench!
 

redflash

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No thats just what Speed demon recommended !... and I don't think a 3/8 drive will fit in the case of a 212 to torque rod bolts
 

JTSpeedDemon

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beam style are good for lug nuts and the like...

not engines
They work just fine for engine stuff! Click style wrenches are just more convenient is all, but as a whole beam style is more flexible, and I know the Craftsman one I mentioned clears a Briggs 5 HP crankcase. Can't speak for Predators though as I haven't torn one all the way down yet.
 

madprofessor

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I've seen a guy use a Harbor Freight 3/8" torque wrench with a 3/8" - 1/4" adapter, and a 1/4" 12-point socket to change a rod on a Predator 212, and honestly I don't think I could have done it.
I have that same torque wrench, but went and bought another one ($20) in 1/4" to do that job. Had to order the socket from NAPA to get it in the 12-point. No adapter in between, and a slightly smaller torque wrench made the job a breeze for me, plenty of room. Most ARC rods call for 170 in./lbs. of torque, but that torque wrench goes up to 200 in./lbs.
 
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