Any Steering Options?

[l008com]

I have a Manco Dingo with a very rudimentary stearing system. It has a very fast turning ratio, so you don't have to turn the steering wheel much to turn the front wheels a lot. And by the same token, feedback up through the wheels turns the steering wheel very easily.

Are there any steering systems, like I guess mini steering racks similar to what a car has? Or maybe something else entirely? That can give me a lower turning ratio of the steering wheel and deading the steering feedback? So you could, in theory, drive this thing more normally?

This is probably the best photo of the steering system I have. Its just a long tab sticking off the steering column, that directly pushes the tie rods as you turn.

 

[karl]

Id start by reading this thread
https://www.diygokarts.com/communit...ng-very-heavy-hard-to-turn.46986/#post-586290

It has a very fast turning ratio, so you don't have to turn the steering wheel much to turn the front wheels a lot.

But that's what makes it a go kart, and more importantly fun!

 

[Functional Artist]

Yes, I agree with Karl the "feel & action" of the steering system enhances the go kart experience.

Yes, there are small Rack & Pinion set ups available
...but, it will require a lot of fabrication work to make it work
...& keep in mind that a Rack & Pinion will be a lot bulkier than, a couple of tie rods, up under your legs/calves

 

[madprofessor]

That tab sticking out for the tierods is called the Pitman arm, and the tierods directly connect it to the spindle arms. Since your spindle arms extend backwards from the spindles, they're called trailing arm spindles. If extending forward instead, they'd be called leading arm spindles.
How much distance there is along the Pitman arm between your steering shaft and the connections of the tierods affects how snappy the steering is. If that distance is for example 3", then drilling another hole in the Pitman arm at only 2" would reduce the snappiness in the steering by 1/3 when you move the tierods to the new hole. Here's the problem with that............
Your kart only has a steering radius as sharp lock-to-lock of the steering wheel as the Pitman arm can push the tierods. Shortening the Pitman arm bolt-up length means you won't be turning as sharply (getting as small of a turning radius) as before you made the change.

 

[l008com]

That tab sticking out for the tierods is called the Pitman arm, and the tierods directly connect it to the spindle arms. Since your spindle arms extend backwards from the spindles, they're called trailing arm spindles. If extending forward instead, they'd be called leading arm spindles.
How much distance there is along the Pitman arm between your steering shaft and the connections of the tierods affects how snappy the steering is. If that distance is for example 3", then drilling another hole in the Pitman arm at only 2" would reduce the snappiness in the steering by 1/3 when you move the tierods to the new hole. Here's the problem with that............
Your kart only has a steering radius as sharp lock-to-lock of the steering wheel as the Pitman arm can push the tierods. Shortening the Pitman arm bolt-up length means you won't be turning as sharply (getting as small of a turning radius) as before you made the change.

I actually thought of that when I was looking at it, and then I even realized what you said second, that it would reduce the turning radius. Maybe I should drill a new hole anyway though and actually test it out and see how I like it.

 

[Master Hack]

I’ve salvaged the rack and pinion off old drill press table lifts and adapted them for steering. lt takes some fab skills and a little imagination, but it works well.
Look around and you might find one for little to no dollars.
picture for illustration only:

https://www.amazon.com/R2020X6-20-Pitch-Gear-Rack/dp/B07C8D5RH8/ref=sr_1_30?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpK6p0rPI_AIVETetBh0ORwNxEAMYASAAEgJqSvD_BwE&hvadid=601787900396&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032908&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=629123743854427317&hvtargid=kwd-302747194681&hydadcr=7661_9903418&keywords=drill+press+rack+and+pinion&qid=1673745559&sr=8-30

 

[l008com]

I can't do customizing like that until I acquire some decent welding skills.

 

[Denny]

Lesson 1. If you can’t weld good weld lots.
Lesson 2. Don’t underestimate the value of a good grinder and flap disc.

 

[l008com]

LOL yeah thats the technique I'm currently using but if i got a little better, I could do a lot of really cool projects. I just don't have the time. Plus I suspect my 20 year old harbor freight machine sucks and thats probably half the problem.

 

[Functional Artist]

LOL yeah thats the technique I'm currently using but if i got a little better, I could do a lot of really cool projects. I just don't have the time. Plus I suspect my 20 year old harbor freight machine sucks and thats probably half the problem.

Um...I can't draw too good, because I only have a "crappy" pencil (that's BS)

Like Denny said, ya gotta practice, practice, practice

* First ya learn how to do something (novice)
...then, ya practice a lot (experienced)
...& when ya get really good at it (expert)

 

[Master Hack]

10 pounds of crappy weld are just as good as 1pound of good weld!

(no not really)

 

[madprofessor]

Don’t underestimate the value of a good grinder and flap disc.

Ditto that. My HF 4.5" angle grinders are $15-$20, I buy cheap grinding wheels in lots of 10 online, and even the occasional grinding/sanding flap discs. Relieves any frustration and stress about the quality of my welding with my Northern Tool 80 amp Klutch stick welder, (now $160).