60v Honda “three wheeler”

Shep1970

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I figure it’s about time I started my build thread. (Been lurking for a while)
What I’ve got is:
1986 Honda 200x
60v 1800w geared motor 1/5 ratio - final ratio should be between 1:7 or 1:8 depending on my sprocket ratio- if I’m doing that right.
520 chain
520 rear 30tooth or 42tooth (already have)
520 front 12t 14t or 16tooth (already have)
20” rear tires- smoothest/lightest I could find
Total weight of the bike as it sits (no motor) 160lbs (seat w/fenders is another 20lbs)
The motor I have weighs roughly 25lbs
Planning on lithium batts 60v-30ah weighing approx 33lbs
Also have motor controller/throttle/misc switches and bolt meter/display
So- total planned weight should be around 250lbs (roughly)

I should have about everything I need (except) the battery (gotta save up for that purchase)
I’ll update as it goes together (I’m sure I’ll need help in the electrical end of it)
I’m working on the motor mounts (hopefully) I’ll have one welded in within a week or so.
I’m not looking for a racer/ just a camp cruiser. Aiming for 15mph-ish
Thanks for looking,
Feel free to say it’s not gonna work/ I’m looking for input too
Shep
 

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Quinc

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One of the best and most sought after ATC's ever made and you ruining it! :2guns:

I had a 84 200x I sold recently. If it where me I would be putting in a KLX200cc 2 stroke engine in her. And get something like a Razor mx650 or an old honda z50 for the camp ground. (Also street legal ;) )

What controller are you going with?

For your battery look into electric car cells like from a Nissan leaf. If you go with one of the lithium packs make sure it can handle 100+ amps as going from a dead stop to full throttle is going to take a lot of juice.
 

itsid

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hmm..
well you should indeed make your motor mount in a way that it uses the original engine mounts..
so you don't need to alter the chassis in order to keep it 'revertible'

Since yeah a good two stroke three is just something you cannot replace with anything.

That being said..
I like the approach, with 1800 W you should be able to aim higher than 15mph IMHO..
at the cost of battery life (uhm mileage) perhaps, but that is certainly enough juice for a hair more fun at the camp ground ;)

'sid
 

Shep1970

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I’ve gotta agree the 86/87 200x is a great bike, however I’m one of those guys that hoards things they like. I’ve got enough nos and used parts/frames to build 4-5 more of them. I just needed a new project and something different and these parts were easily accessible.(it’s what I had)
This is really for my son (14) he doesn’t do well with gas/oil or kickstarting but is a good rider. Of course I’ll ride it when he’s not looking.....
This is the controller I’m “planning” on using
Oh, and this frame isn’t 100% perfect it’s got small flaws so welding a motor mount on I won’t feel bad about.
As u can probably tell I like riding on 3, but there’s nothing wrong with 4 or 2wheels.:cheers2:

Shep
 

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Quinc

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Nice collection!! Hoping to come across a decent deal on a 350x some day. I mostly ride in the sand and the little 200x just didn't have enough power. Ride a banshee now and pretty happy with it. Nothing beats a 3 wheel'd death machine though! :cheers2:

Anyway back on topic. Do you know how many rpms your motor is?

Looking at your controller the cut off is 31v so you will need a volt meter and maybe some kind of low voltage alarm so you or your kid or your kids friend does not ruin the batteries with over discharging them. Or look into something better that you can adjust via your laptop and will give more amps (torque) like a kelly controller. They can be found fairly cheap on endlesssphere and ebay. Or ask them about there 20% off winter sale. ;)
http://kellycontroller.com/keb72300x24v-72v150a30kw-bike-brushless-controller-p-273.html

And since it is your money and not mine I would also get a much better engine as that little 1800w is going to leave you wanting more.

Something like this with a 400 amp controller.
https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/motenergy-me0909.html

---------- Post added at 09:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:30 PM ----------

Also source out the largest axle sprocket you can find. https://www.bmikarts.com/Go-Kart-Gear-Ratio-Speed-Calculator
 

Shep1970

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Thanks, I agree a 350x would be nice. Maybe someday.

I’ve read a few times that these electric “geared” motors aren’t good for go karts. I figure I need the torque to push 20” tires though. Supposedly this motor spins at 3000rpm “but” it being geared at 5:1 final at the output shaft it leaves me with about 600rpm to play with and sort my sprockets from there. It looks like 16front- 30rear will give me about 20mph max/// 12front 42rear I’d be at about 12mph.
I”ll need to play around w/sprockets after I get it moving.
This controller is “supposed” to be programmable through an app on my iPhone. I figured someday I’d buy a bigger motor but at this point I’d rather have more time riding than speed.
I kinda figure I’d learn my mistakes on this motor/controller and upgrade later on. My “pile” of elec stuff (pic)
I have to add that this bike as of now seems to roll super easy- very little resistance pushing on a carpeted floor anyway.
Shep
 

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Functional Artist

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New electric conversion, I love it! :thumbsup:

Since your controller has a usable voltage range (36V - 72V)
…& just ta get 'er going you could use (3) 12V 12AH SLA batteries (~$75.00) to test 'er out @ 36V
...or (4) for some 48V tests (~$100.00) etc.

Then, you can do some test riding & have some fun (workin' out the bugs) while your saving up for bigger, longer range & more expensive batteries. :2guns:

Keep us posted. :cheers2:
 

Shep1970

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Just an update: I picked up some 5mm steel plate (just a hair under 1/4”) I’ll do some welding tomorrow (hopefully). The mount is a bit longer (front to back) for adjustments in the future. The actual chain tensioner on this atc is in the rear carrier (able to adjust up to 1-1/2 links) so that shouldn’t ever be an issue.
Thanks for looking,
Ps-yes that block of wood is just temp. Sorry about the crooked pics:ack2:
 

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Shep1970

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Just a quick update- it’s been a cold winter (no heat in shop) I finally have my motor mount plate welded in. Now to line up the sprockets- shouldnt be that hard (maybe).
I wanted a 87 Honda 200x key switch/dash for power on/off but I only had one that was on a different bike. Soooo i molded one up and presto..... I’ve got one (or many) my other hobby
Hope to have this together and running in a month or two....I hope
Here’s some pics
The battery I believe is going to be a u.p.p lithium 60v triangle shaped in a plastic housing. (It’d fit nicely) Any one heard anything negative about the u.p.p bike batteries? I’d get the costly 40A- 21ah one not the Chinese cells one.
 

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Quinc

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Love this project! Thank you for the update. I just picked up a half melted ATC70 and have been considering doing electric. Any chance do you make any ATC plastic parts? I could use a number plate. :)
 

Shep1970

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Sorry no number plates Quinc, I can only copy/duplicate the parts I already have. The prices for atc parts are going for these days are crazy.
An electric 70 would be cool, nice little bikes too.
Here is some recent pics of my plastic hobby, mostly just rubber grommets and such and one headlight shell mold.
If there’s any hard or soft rubber or plastic small parts the go kart crowd needs just ask but I’d need a nice part to copy though. No gas tanks though.

Shep
 

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Functional Artist

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Nice progress on the bike. :thumbsup:

Kool hobby! :cheers2:

Maybe you could do a step-by-step build thread
...to show us how you do some of that kool plastic stuff. :2guns:
 

Shep1970

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Top secret...
I was taught by a great guy that passed away last yr.....
When I have more time I’ll explain more into the mold making and stuff. Took me about two yrs to finally get the hang of it. I’m trying to teach a friend now and it’s tough/slow going.

Shep
 

Shep1970

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Update :cheers2: Recieved my battery (pics) it wasn’t cheap but it’s bought and pd for. It weighs 15lbs, 24.5ah, LG cells. I had my son bend up a battery box (1/8” steel plate adds 8-lbs but will protect the battery from harm so I figure it’s well worth the extra weight and it’s partially open in front and back for ventilation (also adding a 1/4” rubber pad under batt) I’ve decided to mount it under the seat where the airbox used to be. It’s out of the way from harm and won’t really be seen with the fenders on.
Last night I did a test run of the motor (ignore my wiring) it’ll be getting an overhaul. It all went great, no odd noises and no smoke.........so far so good. I still need to wire up a few things but I’m getting there.
Thanks for looking.:thumbsup:
 

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Shep1970

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Hey guys, I’d have better updates but that thing called life keeps getting in the way. Well the frame is complete, frame in these pics minus motor weighs in a 47lbs (of course I still have the front end and swinger to weigh too, just out of curiosity and trying to keep things light. The 1/8” aluminum plates you see is going to be where all my wiring/controller/circuit breaker wiring is hiding. I figure the plate on the sprocket side will be removable to access it all. I hope to have a quiet wk end here to start wiring it up once and for all.....I’ve got roughly 3” inches between the two aluminum side plates.
If my pics are crooked I’ll do my best to fix em later tonight.
Thanks for looking :thumbsup:
Shep
 

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