30 series tc driver spring

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bob58o

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I have read a few times that the green spring is an upgrade for the 30 series driven. Is that the case?

On the 30 series, you can change the engagement RPM of the TC by changing the garter springs and/or weights in the Driver Unit. Useful with performance cams and and upgraded engines (who might lack power near 2100-2200 rpm).

You can change the spring in the the Driven Unit for your driving conditions. Useful when driving on hilly or off-road terrain.

These are garter springs are for 3100 rpm engagement with the stock weights.
This Driven spring is for more low end.

No, green is stock on COMET 30 Series. Red = Green with knock off's
 

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bob58o

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And Maybe this is what you read???


"first, no need for glue, the original buttons can be pressed in and sit tight without glue.

1500 engagement rpm will not get you anywhere, your engine doesn't have enough power at that rpm to rev up under load.
(how do I know.. well because it's a small single cylinder with less than 8HP for sure..
otherwise you'd have a series 40 attached that's why!)
it'll most likely just die or you'll burn the belt.

if you're geared for max torque (that means LOW speed) you can get down to around 1800.. (1700 on small wheels on a light kart)
but to be honest with you.. 2000 or you'll not be too happy about your maintenance schedules

the yellow spring only delays the shifting process.
basically what the green spring at setting 3 will do can be compared to what the ellow does at 1.
So a good thing to do here...
get the ORIGINAL (green) and if your not happy about the upshift timing, set it to 3 and retry.
if you're still NOT happy with that, then get the yellow spring.

Why?
well, because chances are your engine will not have anywhere near enough torque to fully shift up to overdrive on your series 30 with a yellow spring.
that way you not only have massive amounts of torque and do wheelies and donuts all day..
you'll also have absolutely NO top speed."

'sid
 

bob58o

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Upgrade??? I'd say no. It is just stiffer.
Unless you currently do not have enough bottom end. But a man much smarter than me said, just try the stock spring in the third hole. It will delay the shifting similar to the yellow spring.

If you have enough bottom end, then don't worry about it. If you adjust the setting on the stock spring and still don't have the bottom end you want, then consider the yellow.
 

itsid

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careful...
make sure to NOT MESS up
the garter springs (driveR springs) with
the coil spring (driveN spring)

both come in different colors, so red spring is NOT nearly as telling as one might think here ;)

let's be clear about that:
the driver springs (together with the weights since there are different weights too)
adjust the engagement of the driver (rpms of engagement and urge to to shift up)

the driven springs can't do much at all.. that's why there are less options in the first palce,
all they do is prevent upshifting for a period of time (or force);
the original can be set to three different values using the holes in the cam; (sometimes more or less holes.. most often three)

then a stiffer / weaker spring can take over if that's not enough.. but that's rarely ever necessary.
since effectively the rea wheel will help the driven spring to do it's job properly
the more load it sees the less chance the driver has to shift up.
So generally the green is what you should use 99.99% of the time.


Anyways, take care that you both talk about the same type of spring, otherwise you could run into troubles (buying something you won't ever need without getting what you wanted ;))

'sid
 
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