2015 - Old rider mower-now kart

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dwcopple

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I need some help on how I should weld on supports for the engine mounting plate. Should I run an extra support under the center of the plate between the mounting holes too or is the front and back support enough? The plate is an Azusa from MFG supply. Those brown strips are 1-1/4" angle iron bed frame. I will weld them on as well as the back plate too. I just need an idea of how I should frame and support the engine.
 

landuse

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I have approved your thread, but you posted it in the wrong section. The rules state that you post your entry in the main contest area, and then once a moderator approves it, we will then move it to the build log section.
 

dwcopple

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got a lot done today:
-cut in the keyway in the axle with my dremel (blew two grinding stones out in the process)
-undid the old steering setup and removed all the old junk brackets/bearings etc
-removed the front wheel/tires and inspected the spindles for new pneumatic tires
-screwed up two wheelie bars...ugh...not sure what I'm gonna do there
-fabbed and mounted brake holder and cable support
-fabbed a possible gas tank mount
-cut and drilled two seat risers to clear the engine

 

crazykart

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One suggestion, next time you want to cut a keyway get either a diamond cut off wheel for a dremmel, or a steel cutting bit, or both. No worry about breaking them for the most part, and they wheel slice right through like a hot knife through butter, especially that diamond cut off wheel (which harbor freight sells in the big rotary tool accessory kit)
 

crazykart

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I can imagine ya lol. Those stones don't like hardened steel very well. The steel cutting but I suggested is a rounded bit a little smaller then 1/4" that works kinda like the stones but a lot better.
 

dwcopple

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I got some new front tires/rims but need to extend the spindles and weld a washer on the shaft to place them where I want them to allow full turns too. Got some 5/8" bolts and cut the heads off, just need to bevel the ends to butt-weld them to the current spindle shafts now.

I ordered a pillow block flange bearing for the steering post and have an idea for an upper support too. That should be here later this week so I can get that at least temporarily setup but will need to figure out seating before I finalize its location.

Tonite I welded together the wheelie bar out of some more bed frame angle iron. Should work fine.

 

chancer

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Post a pic of your plan for the spindles. from what I read it does not sound like a strong solution. "to butt-weld them to the current spindle shafts now."
Wheelie bar looks cool though.
 

Poboy kartman

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Just for safetys sake. Rather not worry have to worry about things, even if the possibility of failure of that piece is small.

Well....to give you a little primer on how hardness is achieved with steel....it's done with controlled heat.....

The amount of welding he is going to do is going to change the temper of the grade 8 bolts....making them no better than a standard bolt.....

Plus....the weak point will be the weld area...(in all likelihood) ....and.....I haven't found a spool of 8 grade wire yet....

So....anything above a standard grade bolt is just wasted money....and a false sense of security.....

Just my two cents......
 

crazykart

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Ok, and I understand how hardness is achieved, but I am not worried about the welded area that will be recieving the brunt of the heat. I also won't comment.on that as I don't know what type of welder he is using, his amperage, speed, etc, but I will say that something that small, being notched, should be a quick weld without much heat transfer, and most of that heat should stay in the welded area.

But I digress.

The area I would be worried most about is the threading. Now I may be wrong to worry at all, but putting that much added leverage onto the threading could possibly cause a weak point on a standard bolt. Diy spindles I have seen use hardened bolts, and for good reason. Threads are easily stripped on stabdard bolts, easily stretched, etc. On hardened bolts it is harder to do this. Using a hardened bolt the threads should stay hardened.

The amount of welding sjould be minimal, and amperage low enough that the heat will generally stay near the weld, the area near the threads should stay hardened for the most part to help prevent failure of said threads.

I wouldnt worry about the weld because of the way he shows it being notched, he is onviously going for maximum penetration. Using a standard bolt though, just I myself wouldn't do it. I've seen nuts literally rip off of standard threads at high stress applications where a hardened bolt should have been used.

Just my .02€ my friend...
 

dwcopple

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I am using standard bolts for the reasons listed and that is what the guys who drive their stuff 10x harder than I ever will are using as well. 5/8" coarse thread bolt threads are humongous and aren't going anywhere. A simple nyloc nut against a washer is all I'll need. This isn't a racing kart, just something for my family/friends to get their jollys off of...LOL
 

Poboy kartman

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I am using standard bolts for the reasons listed and that is what the guys who drive their stuff 10x harder than I ever will are using as well. 5/8" coarse thread bolt threads are humongous and aren't going anywhere. A simple nyloc nut against a washer is all I'll need. This isn't a racing kart, just something for my family/friends to get their jollys off of...LOL

And long 5/8" grade 8 bolts R 'spensive!!!!!
 
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