Me too! Worst case, Ill chop off the rear axle, and salvage the parts for a different build. Im hopeing the lengthened frame from front to back helps with the turning. The front tire width/stance is a about 4" wider than the rear, so that may help as well.
Ah, thanks! That would solve my problem. I am not looking forward to building it, but that would be the right choice. Two seperate diffs, one for each rear axle. Did you use a solid steel axle on either side of the diff, and rely soley on the standard "sypidercarts" suspension setup? Or did you do A-arms in the back too? Could you possibly send me a photo of your setup? That would be very helpful! I am guessing people mostly use Miata diffs due to the light weight, lower cost, and availability right? Or is there some other perk they offer? Thanks for any extra info
Ah, never mind, I found your posts with photos (this one Arachnid). Thats a clean little setup for the rear diff! How much did that cost you if you don't mind me asking? What size rear axle is that as well? That's definitely what I should do, It doesn't look too terribly complicated either! I literally go to bed thinking, I have to build this, but this thing is going to suck at turning sharp! Haha. That would work with how I am planning on splitting the power between the two axles too, big thanks!
Oh man, you are my hero right now! Much appreciated!
Negative, so long as the projectiles pass the "smash test." After powdercoating, grab one, smash it with a hammer. If the powdercoat still sticks, your good to go. If it flakes off, then remelt or recoat and try again. Running naked lead rounds down the barrel is the big issue, hence the term "barrel leading." The old school lubricant is basically a wax coating, but the pro of PC is that it can be faster, last longer, it covers the whole projectile, reduces lead exposure, looks cool, and actually helps stabilize softer lead alloys allowing for higher velocity reloads. An interesting note is that cast bullets are typically oversized by 0.002" larger than the barrel. Basically squeezing it in. Additional or thick powder coatings can be used as a tool to "widen" a bullet if needed. It's about 0.001" or 0.002" per coat. Those Ruger 480 rds are about $3.50-$4.00 per, but I can churn them out for about 30 cents per once I have the brass. Pretty dang cool if your into old guns too as you can tailer the cast bullet to your barrel. Abused WW2 rifles can especially benefit from this (think .303 British), just measure the bore dia, and cast that baby big.
Midwest Miata. They seem to be a miata dealership focused on parts for racing miatas. Cheaper than ebay. These were being sold essentially to the "drifters" to weld up to turn their miata into live axles. Really good steel, and super solid.
