212 wont rev all the way

FluxTrance22

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I have a stage 1 predator 212cc with the governor removed and a silencer on the exhaust. I was riding around my neighborhood and it was running fine. I went to my house to take a little break. Started it back up and it didnt accelerate as hard as before. Like not even close. top speed was like 38mph before but now its like 22 and it revs like half way/ 3/4s id say. Worried I might've blown or broke smt lol. it ran fine till i turned it off, took a not even 5 min break, and started it again. Any solutions??
 

Denny

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Check your throttle linkage and make sure with the pedal the carb is opening up all the way. Pictures of your set up would also help.
 

FluxTrance22

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Check your throttle linkage and make sure with the pedal the carb is opening up all the way. Pictures of your set up would also help
carb opens all the way i checked while stationary. Ill deff check again and post some photos but maybe tomorrow as im not going to be home until late
 

FluxTrance22

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Oil smells like gas and it's kinda metallic. Guessing I destroyed smt. I have a warranty on it so I'm more than likely going to put the stock air box and exhaust back on and take the stage 1 jet off. And replace the engine
 

pearl111

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Oil smells like gas and it's kinda metallic. Guessing I destroyed smt. I have a warranty on it so I'm more than likely going to put the stock air box and exhaust back on and take the stage 1 jet off. And replace the engine
Are you aloud to return the motor even though you took the governor out?
 

madprofessor

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If the mfr. opens the motor and sees the missing parts, or sees anything on the outside like clipped off sensor wires that would indicate mods, they'll recharge your refund to your credit card if possible. If it's a straight even exchange and they find mods, they'll still want to invalidate the warranty. Legal matter, you can take your chances, but nothing you could do would make the deception right.
 

panchothedog

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If you're going to delete the governor again do yourself a favor and install a aftermarket rod and flywheel. Don't want to read your 2nd post about how your engine won't run right. As for breaking it in pretty sure it's right there in the manuel. Your first engine probably was dying from over reving it. The metallic smell you described in the oil was more than likely the rod scoring and starting to fail. That is why the engine comes with a governor and that is why they manufacture aftermarket rods and flywheel. The stock parts are only able to withstand speeds a LITTLE more than what the governor is set for.
 

madprofessor

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As for breaking it in pretty sure it's right there in the manuel.
The manual does indeed give you a guideline that's acceptable for the manufacturer for breaking in a new engine. However, most folks here would advise you against a really long runtime at a single rpm. Manual talks about 3 hours at only a couple of different rpms.
I personally would choose to only run at low rpm for about a half hour, then a higher rpm for another half hour, etc., working on up to 2 hours that ends with near max rpm. set by its governor. After that, I'd be revving it all the way up, letting it idle, running at half throttle, etc. for a wide variety back and forth until the 3 hours was done.
The main worry for me is that during the initial break-in there's extra metal being scoured off as intended for the parts to settle in nice and loose, and too long at a single rpm during that period could conceivably wear a "lip" into the cylinder wall at top dead center. That could snap a ring after the governor is removed and it suddenly revs to 6K rpm.
See attached link for the only oil I personally would put in the new engine for break-in................
Royal Purple 11487 Royal Purple Break-In Oil | Summit Racing
 
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