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Old 11-18-2010, 09:25 PM
mex916 mex916 is offline
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Default is this a margay brava 1.4 Please help

Im picking this up tomorrow for 200.00
and the seller has alot of the parts , spindles, axle, 2 sets tires, Not sure if he has rims I got caught up in the commotion!

I will find out more before I hand over my cash


by the way im 6'1" 190lbs I called margay and they said frame will fit me and smaller
but THEY didn't see it I just told them it was a margay brava 1.4
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margay brava 1.4.jpg   margay brava 1.4 pic 2.jpg  
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Old 11-19-2010, 11:22 PM
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Default Yup, Its a Margay Brava 1.4

I went and picked it up! Now its time to start putting it together with some cool parts!
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Old 11-20-2010, 09:23 AM
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Are you going to buy all new race kart parts? If so its gonna be super expensive.

If you wanna try and save some money here you could probably find someone selling a complete race kart (w/o engine) that has a bent or damaged frame, and then swap all the parts over to your frame. (a complete rolling sprint/shifter kart with a bad frame would only be worth/cost a hundred bucks or so...) Even If you found a different brand kart you'd probably find most of parts would bolt right up and interchange with your Margay frame.
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Old 11-20-2010, 03:33 PM
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Default This is what Im thinking of doing,

This is what I was thinking of doing to make this a street type race/ fun cart (not actually intending to race)


This is what I have so far:
1. 6.5hp harbor freight clone engine
2. margay Brava 1.4 frame

thats it!

This is what I'm planning on getting used/ new ( obviously cheaper the better cost wise, not trying to win Indy 500)

1. left and right spindle, what size should I get and from where?
2. engine mount to attach clone to this frame?
3. axle and bearings + Cassettes? I do want a 40" long axle, unsure 1.25" or 40mm pros and cons, and where to buy cheap? I'm looking at azusa chromoly axles are they good quality?
4. hydraulic disk setup up, just in rear?
5. Wheel hubs "american bolt pattern", and why choose 1/4 or 5/16" bolts?
6. clutch for clone engine?
7. Seat, i have seen some on cometkarts or BMI?
8. Axle cassettes for bearings,? so many to choose from any suggestions
9. Rims and tires. was thinking of getting used or new 6" x any suggestions here for my intended use?



can you fellow gokart experts give me some leads, suggestions or advice? ebay: smokingjoe, BMI
cometkarts, azusa axles....

By the way Thanks ANDERKART for your post!

Im going to include some pics of the items i was thinking of as wel las a kart that has parts sim. to what i was thinking
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sprocket hub.jpg   m_series_vented_rear.jpg   axel.jpg  

5914.jpg  
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Old 11-20-2010, 04:59 PM
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Whats your budget for this project?

This ads a year old but you might try contacting him anyway, he had a lot of stuff you'll need: http://karting.4cycle.com/showthread.php?t=288602
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Old 11-20-2010, 05:46 PM
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that black rim looks pricy!
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Old 11-20-2010, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mex916 View Post
1. left and right spindle, what size should I get and from where?
2. engine mount to attach clone to this frame?
3. axle and bearings + Cassettes? I do want a 40" long axle, unsure 1.25" or 40mm pros and cons, and where to buy cheap? I'm looking at azusa chromoly axles are they good quality?
4. hydraulic disk setup up, just in rear?
5. Wheel hubs "american bolt pattern", and why choose 1/4 or 5/16" bolts?
6. clutch for clone engine?
7. Seat, i have seen some on cometkarts or BMI?
8. Axle cassettes for bearings,? so many to choose from any suggestions
9. Rims and tires. was thinking of getting used or new 6" x any suggestions here for my intended use?
1. Measure the ID of the attached C brackets on your frame then get a spindle with the same required kingpin ID.
2. Maybe some sort of steel plate with slots cut/milled for motor adjustment.
3. Most any Azusa part is of good quality. I think a 1" solid axle would hold up just fine, and BMI has them rather cheap. $25 + ship IIRC.
4. One hydraulic caliper on the rear axle would be plenty.
5. I don't know much about racing hubs or rims, but a 5/16 bolt would obviously be stronger.
6. These clones, the 6.5s, are a 3/4" shaft with a 3/16" key way. They are tapped out to 5/16" - 24 IIRC. It's all on the HF site. A racing clutch would preform best, but at a cost as well. Any decent cent. clutch should do.
7. Some type of molded seat with sides would be best, not necessary. A smaller, bucket style seat, not just cushions.
8. What type of mounts are your brackets drilled for? Then pick from there.
9. There are many types out there, slicks, sawtooth, etc. Where do you plan on riding this kart? You don't want slicks for wet grass, but you don't want knobbies for exclusively road riding either.
  #8  
Old 11-21-2010, 11:11 AM
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You can save money and cut corners on some of your parts but you really need to get the correct front spindles so the kart will turn and handle well. The correct spindles will be designed/angled to match your frames spindle mounts achieving the correct caster and camber. If you just rig up any old spindle you'll most likely end up with an evil handling kart that wont turn well.

What parts did your seller have for your kart and how much did he want for everything?

Comet has quite a few Margay parts: http://www.cometkartsales.com/store/...cpa/margay.htm

You could buy a pretty nice 15 degree motor mount priced as low as $35 but there's a couple different models and you'll need to measure the distance (center to center) between the two engine rails to see if you need an International or American style mount.
International will measure 3-5/8" and American will be 3".
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Old 11-21-2010, 12:39 PM
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You can save money and cut corners on some of your parts but you really need to get the correct front spindles so the kart will turn and handle well. The correct spindles will be designed/angled to match your frames spindle mounts achieving the correct caster and camber. If you just rig up any old spindle you'll most likely end up with an evil handling kart that wont turn well.

My Budget: Unlimited, LOL J/k Umm I can spend some dead presidents but Im not trying to give away cash . Rather score good deals and build this pretty cool with the least amount of cash
So I will say approximately 1000.00
FYI: Im not adding body work or the bumper stuff.. I like the mechanically simplistic look of the frame and the cool parts that go on it
Answer: I totally agree since the C spindle brackets are welded at an angle (see: picture) distance in between with tape measure: 2.5 plus or minus w/ holes


What parts did your seller have for your kart and how much did he want for everything? Hes supposed to get back to me (wont hold my breath) and not worried as I originally planned to start from ground up anyways!

Comet has quite a few Margay parts:http://www.cometkartsales.com/store/...cpa/margay.htm
Answer: This is where Ive been thinking of getting the spindles or eBay, I cant really seem to find anything that is specifically made for Margay gokart race parts. Other than Margay.com or Cometkartsales.com.. are they the cheapest?

You could buy a pretty nice 15 degree motor mount priced as low as $35 but there's a couple different models and you'll need to measure the distance (center to center) between the two engine rails to see if you need an International or American style mount.
International will measure 3-5/8" and American will be 3".
Answer: I measured center line of both tubes ( center to center) and they measured approx.. 3-5/8. ..So eBay or?


I wonder if margay.com has the specs/ blueprints for this frame in PDF format, so that I can find out all the hole sizes and dimensions of this frame? This would help to know exactly what bolts, sizies, bolt hole spacing patterns, etc.
FYI: Bearing cassette hanger bolt hole pattern: I measured center to center of the 3 holes ( used 2 holes obviously) and my measurement is 3-1/8 +-



Again Thanks for all you help and please fell free to add input or critism as needed.... Id rather get good advice and not do something lame by buying parts that dont fit...... or are way overkill!
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bearing cassette hanger.jpg   C Spindle Bracket.jpg   top front frame.jpg  

rear of frame.jpg  
  #10  
Old 11-21-2010, 03:46 PM
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Comet and Margay seem to be the only places selling spindles. BMI seems to have the lowest price on a 15 degree motor mount, I'll check around on your other stuff.

Hey did you catch this ad: http://ocala4sale.com/classifieds/10758520991.php
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:44 PM
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Spindles: http://karting.4cycle.com/showthread...ghlight=margay
Probably be a good Idea to email margay your frame #'s to confirm its a Brava 1.4, and also ask if it used 12-degree spindles.

This sounds like a smoking deal on a complete axle: http://karting.4cycle.com/showthread...=complete+axle
You should keep an eye on their ads, I've had good luck buying over there.
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:41 PM
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Default 15deg?

Anderkart, why 15 deg?
I called margay and registered the frame /serial no#. Thanks for that idea.

below is my conversation with the Margay tech:

Margay: It looks like you have a great start. The 1.4 chassis is designed for 2 cycle engines only. The rear cross bar right behind the seat that connects the two center frame rails is on an angle; therefore you will not be able to run inboard drive. Since you just have a frame its a good thing, and we can fix you up no problem. We actually have been modifying a bunch of older chassis to accept the clone package. Those frames are going for $350.00 completely bare.
Answer: Id like to stick with what I have and modify it. Can I purchase a motor mount that would let me add my clone engine to the side/ next to seat? Are you saying that I would have to cut / weld the frame?
What does the motor mount with different degrees options mean? I mean are their reasons to have degrees listed for motor mounts made for clones?



Margay: As far a spindles and axle goes, I would recommend 17mm spindles and a soft or medium 40mm axle.
Answer, spindles: 17mm and what degree, does it matter for my purposes? ( not racing, just street fun use)
Answer, axle: 40mm axle (medium), what length? And what general bearing cassettes would you recommend for my particular fun use?


Since you are running a 4 cycle category it might be beneficial to run American rear hubs. Although it also depends on the size of rims and tires you run. If they are standard 450/600 or 450/710, most cheap wheels and tires you can find will be metric most likely. Unless you run 6 inch wheels and tires then its more of an Americanized item.
Answer, wheels: I was thinking American rear hubs and fronts. The 17mm front spindle means fronts are metric and rear wheel hubs are American, am I correct? Im kind of confused here. If they are standard 450/600 or 450/7100 Im not sure what these numbers mean? I do want to pick wheels and rims that are not like a weird , expensive sizing and hard to get.. Id rather stick to too a common size and width for my application as well as considering cost factor. So 6 all the way around and if so what widths?

And you say metric wheels and tires are cheaper My rookie knowledge I would have though American wheels are cheaper....
What about Brake and gas pedal. What size fit this frame,
  #13  
Old 11-22-2010, 03:34 PM
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Most clone racers run 15-deg motor mounts to get extra clearance between the RR tire and engine/air cleaner. Check this pic: http://karting.4cycle.com/gallery/sh...=&ppuser=34140

You might get away with a 5, 7-deg. or maybe even a flat mount if you run the stock air cleaner and/or if you slide your engine far enough forward to get clearance for everything. The draw backs to your engine mounted further forward are: it makes you have to move the seat over more to clear the engine, the hot engine will be closer to your right shoulder/arm and you'll have to run a longer chain. (shorter chains tend to stay on their sprockets better than longer ones) Although the up side of your engine mounted further forward is a bit more of the karts weight would be transferred to the front where most karts need it for better turning grip. Anyways, if it was mine I'd go with the 15 degree.

Does your name plate or Sr# confirm its a Bravia 1.4 model? If so, you'd just need to ask Comet or Margay how many degree spindles its supposed to have.

For measuring your bolt holes, etcetera you'll find one of these would come in very-very handy: http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...igital+caliper

My sprint kart has a 40mm/43" long axle but a 40" would probably work just fine. I'd either go with a 1-1/4' or 40mm diameter, not a 1".

Yeah only the 125 shifter karts have front brakes, you'll be fine with a single rear disk setup.

I'd go with 5/16" stud size for your rear hubs, you'll find its easier to get good deals on used rims with the metric bolt pattern. Don't buy hubs for the front, its cheaper to just use spindle mount rims.

These clutches seem to work alright and don't cost much: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4&ci_sku=13791

You could probably find nice used race kart seat on ebay or bobs classified for $20 or so. I like Tillott brand sprint kart seats but they're kinda expensive new and there's several other good brands out there. Here's a guide to figure out what size seat you'll need for most any brand or model: http://www.tillett.co.uk/PDF/dimensions2007.pdf

I prefer 6" diameter rims/tires but the tires usually cost quite a bit more than 5". With 5" you could probably buy a descent used, mounted set of sprint kart tires/rims for a $100 or less.
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Old 11-22-2010, 05:27 PM
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anderkart, thanks again your a wealth of info!

15 deg motor mount it is!
40mm med axle I want same size as yours 43"
front spindles: 17mm, deg? still trying to get answer! so no hubs huh?
seat: large, brand still looking
clutch: northerntool!!
rear wheels: 5/16" bolt rear hubs metric bolt pattern? Not american you say.?

6" wheels and tires thats what i thought would look and handle best for my application
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Old 11-23-2010, 02:00 PM
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Default My purchases

Anderkart

I took your advice and ordered the BMI 15deg mount for my blue clone. 40.+ shipping = 56.99.. motherF....

I have question wont the 15 deg tilt the motor an as well as he shaft causing binding with the axle sprocket, right?


here is the list of parts so far that im about to purchase with pricing for a private individual. ( how would you guys try "MAKE DEALS" Example: should I ask him to include the axle bearings with the cassettes? what about the spindles?

Oh by the way I spoke with MARGAY tech: I asked if I can add a clone engine, this is what he said:
Tech: The motor mount only changes how far left and right you can go and the angle. No angle is perfect. It’s basically used to determine a good fit for everything. Just like Jared’s 1.4 you can modify it to accept the clone. The rear cross member that crosses under the brake to the motor mount side has to be cut and welded to take inboard sprocket carrier.





Here's what I have for the Brava 1.4:

1. (2) New 17mm Billet Spindles with 5/16 Kingpin Bearings (New $109.95 EA) (My price $175.00 for the pair)
Yes, need to understand what I need for these spindles?

2. (2) New 5/16 Kingpin bolts drilled ($3.75 EA) (My price $6.00 for the pair) Need these right?

3. (8) New 5/16 AN Washers used in Kingpin assembly ($.20 EA) (My price $1.00 for all 8)

4. (2) Used 5/16 center pills good condition (New price $10.00 EA) (My price $10.00 for both)

5. (2) New 5/16 offset pills ($12.50 EA) (My price $20.00 for both)

6. (2) New 5/16 Ride height spacers (12 required) ($2.95 EA) (My price $4.50 for both)

7. (2) New 5/16 castle nuts for Kingpin bolts ($1.65 EA) (My price $2.50 for both)

8. (2) New Voltz clip for KP ($.95 EA) (My price $1.00 for both)

9. (2) 20mm Wildkart wheel spacers for 17mm spindles ($3.00 EA) (My price $4.00 for both)

10. (3) 10mm Wildkart wheel spacers for 17mm spindles ($2.75 EA) (My price $6.00 for all 3)

11. (6) 5mm Wildkart wheel spacers for 17mm spindles ($2.75 EA) (My price $10.00 for all 6)

12. Wildkart Steering wheel hub ($34.00) (My price $15.00)

13. Used Euro Steering Wheel (New go up to $80.00) (My price $10.00, has tear in padding)
Question: can I see a picture, how bad is the tear, is the Wildkat wheel better?

14. Steering Shaft with new Castle nut and AN washer ($59.95) (My price $35.00)
Question: is this the same shaft cometkarts has on their website for this chassis?

15. (3) Margay Axle Bearing Cassettes ($48.00 EA) (My price, used/Mint cond. $85.00 for all 3)
Yes

16. (3) Used 40mm axle bearings ($25.00 EA) (My price $15.00 for all 3, good condition)
Yes

17. Brake rod ($9.95) (My price $3.00)
Yes

18. Rear torsion tube chrome ($15.00) (My price $5.00)
Question: Does it come with both end clamps

19. (2) Wildkart 40mm metric wheel hubs 65mm long ($43.00 EA) (My price $35.00 for the pair, mint cond)
See: Margay rear hubs ( 20 )

20. (3) Sets of short 40mm Margay wheel hubs ($65.00 EA) (My price $35.00 per set of 2, used mint)
Question: which ones would you take the Margay or the Wildkart? Is there a difference in quality or just why?

21. (2) 17mm long front hubs metric pattern ($50.00 EA) (My price $35.00 for the pair, used mint cond.)
Question: can I just use spindle mount wheels, Advantage or disadvantage?

22. (2) 40mm locking collars ($12.50 EA) (My price $10.00 for the pair, used mint)
Question: Do I need these collars and for what?

23. (2) 10" tie rod and tie rod ends ($26.45 for 1 tie rod with both ends) (My price $25.00 for both tie rods with ends)
yes

24. 40mm Margay Sprocket hub ($65.00) (My price $10.00, not mint)
Question: How bad is the NOT MINT condition. Is it true, straight, warped?

25. (2) Caliba Large Seats / sides are padded ($135.00 EA) (My price $20.00 EA, have bolt holes, but good condition)
Qty:1, Will take the best of the 2, what color by way are the seat?

26. (4) Conicle Seat Washers/ Billet Blue Anodizing ($2.25 EA) (My price $6.00 for all 4)

27. (2) 40mm Margay Hard Axles ($124.95 EA) (My price $50.00 EA, used good condition/ straight)
Qty:1

28. (2) 40mm non- Margay axles, NEW, not sure of the stiffness ($124.95 EA) (My price $40.00 for both)
Question: Is this a better deal than the Margay OEM hard axle? Quality, etc….?

29. (2) Rear wheels 5" Douglas Black Anodizing 7 & 3/4" wide ($37.00 EA) (My price $30.00 for the pair, used in good condition)
Question: Can you send me picture?
  #16  
Old 11-23-2010, 03:30 PM
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The motor mount should not cause any binding issues because it tilts the motor forward to provide more clearance. Think of it as holding the output shaft still and turning the block around the shaft. The shaft will remain parallel to the axle but the motor will just be leaning as if you tipped it to look underneath it.
  #17  
Old 11-23-2010, 08:10 PM
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Wow, you've been busy!

I agree with redsox, the motor mount is level side to side, it just tilts forward.

Sounds like they got most of your parts there, its cool they had some used stuff, seems like pretty decent prices.

You'll be fine with either rear wheel hubs but I'd probably go with the short margay brand. (ask if they come with lug nuts)

Your choice buying the front hubs or not. New Spindle mount rims cost about the same as the 3-lug rims...

You'd probably be fine with the deal on those 2 lower priced axles. (might as well buy all the keys you'll need for the axle too)

Not a bad price on those rear rims, ask if they have a full set of used tires/rims.


We're probably forgetting something here but besides all the nut and bolts, it looks like you'll still need a Master cylinder/brake lines/caliper with hub, floor pan, rear sprocket and the 2 brackets that go from the front of your seat to the frame.
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:46 PM
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I forgot to warn that you bmi's shipping is criminal.
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Old 11-24-2010, 03:14 PM
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Update: odered more parts. NOT BMI. They make up the pricing through. Shipping! Rat bstrds. LOL joke

I was told that. That I will probably need to reweld/ modify the rear angled bar behind seat that connects both left and right sides of frame to allow for the inboard sprocket setup that goes with the clone setup. Since most race frames are meant to. Take outboard 2cycle engine setups! Anybody have good images or experiances in this?
  #20  
Old 11-25-2010, 08:04 AM
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Yeah I see what they mean, that angled cross bar is super close to the RR. bearing hanger and doesn't leave much room for a sprocket to be mounted inboard like you'll need for your clone. All my race karts have strait crossbars so I've never ran into this problem before.

Well you could find a good welder/fabricator to mod your crossbar further forward, or buy or build a jackshaft to run your rear sprocket outboard like 2 strokes do. I did some research and learned that Burris makes a motor mount with a built in jackshaft, It'd bolt right up and solve your problem but its $208 : https://id3528.securedata.net/test.b...roducts_id=372
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