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  #61  
Old 04-21-2010, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by gocart View Post
Mine was a briggs that threw the rod. My 5hp briggs (aftermarket cam is the only mod) is way fast enough with a governor. It actually scares the **** out of me when I am driving down the street at near top speed. I dont scare easy, I have a class A skydiving license. I just cant imagine someone wanting more speed out of it.
Haha, you should drive my kz400 kart.

Solomon, it would be nice if you could get rid of that picture that says you can use a gasket OR silicone. Might get confusing to someone doing it for the first time.
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  #62  
Old 04-21-2010, 08:50 PM
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I think we should keep in mind that a great deal of our new users have never owned a kart before or worked on small engines. They come here for advice and help repairing their kart or engine. By suggesting dangerous things like this we are advocating that such practices are common and acceptable. Most people can achieve the speed they want simply by changing gearing or adjusting their governor.

We need to take a look at our target audience when we do things like this. This is not a racing forum, this is a diy general purpose forum, where we have newbies.
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  #63  
Old 04-21-2010, 10:08 PM
solomon solomon is offline
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But their are A LOT of people looking for a tut on doing this. It is stated that you and and your motor can be damaged from this mod, if someone chooses to ignore that, then its their problem if something happens, and my last kart i had for 8 months had a 5hp briggs engine ungoverned its entire life and it never threw a rod, only issue it had was a scored cylinder from me riding it without an air filter like an idiot
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  #64  
Old 04-21-2010, 10:37 PM
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I fully understand that this can and typically does lead to damaging the engine, which can result in bodily injury. Maybe i'm just uptight (I know I can be), but dude understand that karting is typically a kid's sport. Yes, adults can have a blast on go-karts, we do so all the time, but when adults get on karts, we remove the kiddie engines and go with big beefy engines to result in speed and torque (guess what, those engines still have governors or rev limiters).

If you need to go fast, there are other ways. I'm glad people are asking how to jump their governor, 80% of the time, I'd be willing to bet they ask this question out of ignorance and really just need to change their gearing or upgrade engines.
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  #65  
Old 04-21-2010, 11:10 PM
solomon solomon is offline
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I fully agree, but the point of this thread wasn't "Free Power This Is How", it was simply "how to remove the governor" for people who want to do this. Someone might have bought a cam and rod and wondered how to pull the gov.No where did I say to use the stock rod. This is just a basic tut for getting inside,what the gov is, and removing it. I didn't explain that you will get Hp from this anywhere in the tut. Some kid isn't going to pull the gov if he has no idea what it does, unless someone else told him to which is out of my hands, their is a warning and if someone does use an after market rod then yes problems can occur.
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  #66  
Old 04-22-2010, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solomon View Post
I fully agree, but the point of this thread wasn't "Free Power This Is How", it was simply "how to remove the governor" for people who want to do this. Someone might have bought a cam and rod and wondered how to pull the gov.No where did I say to use the stock rod. This is just a basic tut for getting inside,what the gov is, and removing it. I didn't explain that you will get Hp from this anywhere in the tut. Some kid isn't going to pull the gov if he has no idea what it does, unless someone else told him to which is out of my hands, their is a warning and if someone does use an after market rod then yes problems can occur.
You actually wont gain any power, generally the torque drops off after 3600rpm ish on these engines anyways. All your gaining is a little speed.

Maybe also add in that keeping this engine wide open for more than a few seconds after governor is removed, can and most likely will lead to engine failure.

you could also make the warning a little clearer

"warning, this modification has a high risk of hurting your engine, and/or anyone near it. This is not for inexperienced mechanics, do at your own risk."

Or something like that.

Blaz, i see where your coming from, but, the youngest person on this forum is 14. I would say 14-16 your not really a kid anymore, **** when i was 14 i built a shifter kart, and than another one this year just after my 16th birthday. I am probably a little biased though.
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  #67  
Old 04-22-2010, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Maybe also add in that keeping this engine wide open for more than a few seconds after governor is removed, can and most likely will lead to engine failure.
If not under a load...maybe. If always under a load at WOT engine will simply fall something short of it's initial rated useful hours, provided no other mods have been made. Perhaps 30% less as a guess.
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  #68  
Old 04-22-2010, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Russ2251 View Post
If not under a load...maybe. If always under a load at WOT engine will simply fall something short of it's initial rated useful hours, provided no other mods have been made. Perhaps 30% less as a guess.
That can depend on gearing and terrain too, if your holding it wide open, down hill, with 10" tires and a 10:1 ratio, your at a much higher risk, than say a 6:1 ratio, 15" tires, going up a hill.

Also, you cant forget, no engine is perfect. There is always a chance of failure after governor is removed.
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  #69  
Old 04-22-2010, 07:34 PM
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never said it would gain power...
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  #70  
Old 06-01-2010, 06:39 PM
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Glad I found this. I have an OLD (if I read the code right, it was made in 69) 5hp briggs engine. I took it off the tiller it was on because I wanted to clean it off and the carb needs rebuilt, and it rattled, inside the blocked. I took it apart, and the govenor gear and some metal piece were sitting in there. I thought I was going to have to replace it because I thought it also got oil around, but at least according to these pictures, which looks identical to the engine I have, I won't need to. I just need to rebuild the carb.

Also, the cardboard cereal box gaskets, brilliant! Do those leak at all from oil seeping through?

Also also, what should those bolts be torqued to?
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  #71  
Old 06-01-2010, 10:20 PM
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Just check the block for any damage, and the gasket should not leak, but it could over a long time I would imagine. I don't like to torque the side cover bolts because they usually strip before torque spec. Tighten them until snug and then no more than an 1/8 turn more.
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  #72  
Old 06-18-2011, 01:31 PM
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Will this work on the various other 5 hp and 6.5 hp clone engines too?
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  #73  
Old 06-18-2011, 04:29 PM
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Same principle involved, similar method
Basically on all small honda, briggs and techumseh with a mechanical governor involving the nylon gear, all you need to do is open up the crankcase, find the little gear and get it out, along with any linkages, and plug the hole with a bolt.
Here is a how to guide for the clone engine gov. removal
Hope that helps.
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  #74  
Old 06-18-2011, 09:54 PM
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i have given my 6hp briggs **** past the governor. on my kart/tractor thing. since it was geared to like 10mph.....

so yeah i went plenty of laps.... probably kept it WOT for 5 minutes straight. its 20 years old and has old crappy oil in it...... it has held up.

still runs good like normal.
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  #75  
Old 06-29-2011, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solomon View Post
WARNING-DAMAGE CAN OCCUR TO YOU AND ENGINE BY DOING THIS MOD

Okay, I have made a STEP by STEP tutorial for removing the governor on a 5hp FLAT HEAD Briggs engine.
This Tutorial Starts off assuming you have removed any linkage from the carburetor to the governor arm.
AND/OR have eliminated the Governor/throttle Plate.
TOTAL COST FREE

TOOLS NEEDED
7/16" wrench
3/8" wrench
Hammer (If needed)
Needle Nose Pliers
Bench Grinder (or other cutting device)

Materials
Oil Container (Tupperware works great)
PTO Gasket (can be made from cereal box, check end play after installed)

-------------------------------------------------------------


STEP 1: Remove OIL Drain Plug with 7/16 " wrench, and Drain OIL!

STEP 2: Remove Governor Arm Bolt with 3/8" wrench and remove governor arm.

STEP 3: Remove Governor Clip and Washer (if washer is there)

STEP 4: Remove ALL 6 PTO side cover bolts with 7/16" wrench.


STEP 5: Extract PTO side Cover with hands,ONLY USE A HAMMER in the Spot shown below if it won't budge, be careful, you can break PTO Side cover.


STEP 6: This is the Governor Gear, remove it with pliers.


STEP 7: Remove this WASHER!it is directly behind the governor gear!

STEP 8: This is the Governor Shaft,what you see me grabbing is the 'flap" on the shaft. Pull it towards Crankshaft

STEP 9: Use Bench grinder or "another cutting device" to remove the "flap" from the governor shaft

STEP 10: Reinstall the Governor shaft. (OPTIONAL ->) You can lube it if you wish.

STEP 11: reinstall Governor Clip

STEP 12: Reinstall PTO side cover with new gasket, and torque bolts to 15lbs or until "SNUG"

THAT'S IT YOUR DONE! YOU DO NOT NEED THE GOVERNOR ARM! NOW HOOK YOUR THROTTLE UP DIRECTLY TO CARBURETOR! AND !!ADD!! OIL
Written by Solomon
STICKY ANYONE???
Hi is this what i need to do for my dingo 285 as its really slow like 20mph also can u take a photo of the throttle cable setup direct to carb as u say in ur last pic thanks for ur time Rich
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  #76  
Old 06-29-2011, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWITCH12380 View Post
Hi is this what i need to do for my dingo 285 as its really slow like 20mph also can u take a photo of the throttle cable setup direct to carb as u say in ur last pic thanks for ur time Rich
Solomon hasnt been on here in close to a year. Use the search feature.

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  #77  
Old 10-21-2011, 06:35 PM
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I read somewhere that you can not do this and just connect directly the throttle directly to the carb. is that correct? Which is better. I have 2 B and S 316212's and want a little more speed out of them.
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  #78  
Old 06-09-2012, 09:38 AM
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I currently don't need to do this step, but this is great information anyway. You're pictures and descriptions are great and exactly the way I like to see things explained. The add in's on the pictures showing which way to pull and where the items are were the most helpful. Thanks!
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  #79  
Old 06-09-2012, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGaul View Post
I currently don't need to do this step, but this is great information anyway. You're pictures and descriptions are great and exactly the way I like to see things explained. The add in's on the pictures showing which way to pull and where the items are were the most helpful. Thanks!
You get that around here, we're a pretty helpful bunch
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  #80  
Old 10-02-2012, 01:47 PM
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Can anyone tell me why you have to go inside the engine to remove the plastic governor gear? Isn't just disconnecting the linkage from the carb going to be enough. I'm not really sure what the gear does inside, but i saw no where in this post that talked about how removing the gear affected the engine versus just disconnecting the linkage.
Can anyone explain this?
Thanks.
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