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Old 12-07-2009, 03:52 PM
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Default Reverse trike go kart finished pictures

Here are some pictures of my reverse trike go kart. It was officially finished last weekend. All the paint is dry. I did some final test runs and tweaks and everything is working great. Winter is here. On to the next project now.










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Old 12-07-2009, 05:02 PM
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Brakes on the clutch...GENIUS!
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Old 12-07-2009, 06:37 PM
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Very nice, you did a great job.
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:32 PM
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top speed?
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theo View Post
Very nice, you did a great job.
Thanks guys. It was a great project. It took me just over two months to engineer, fabricate, and build.

The speed is around 32mph at 5,500 rpm.

I get some valve chatter at high rpm. Do you guys reccomend putting in stiffer valve springs for box stock engines?
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Old 12-08-2009, 12:11 PM
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cool.
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:42 PM
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i would keep the stock springs to prevent it from blowin a rod by revin higher then goin into your back...
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
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i would keep the stock springs to prevent it from blowin a rod by revin higher then goin into your back...
Thanks for the advice. I guess I just leave that motor box stock then. Still a blast even though the motor is stock.
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Old 12-09-2009, 04:45 PM
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I think you should try to put the brake on the axle. That clutch gets hot enough without it, and if you're chain breaks you could be in for a huge accident.

My 2c.
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Old 12-09-2009, 05:44 PM
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Very cool!
If you get an ARC rod and flywheel before the springs than I'd go for it. I personally wouldnt want to risk rod or flywheel probs at those rpm's, with the engine that close to my head. lol
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Old 12-09-2009, 05:57 PM
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You must have balls of steel to sit next to a clone motor @5500 RPM! Especially in the path of the rod and flywheel.
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:47 PM
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny_McCormic View Post
You must have balls of steel to sit next to a clone motor @5500 RPM! Especially in the path of the rod and flywheel.
I'm planning on building an experimental aircraft next using a clone motor. That should be really safe.

Seriously, this reverse trike clone go kart is as safe as it gets. The clutch brake works just fine for something that only weighs 80lbs with the motor.
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:42 AM
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Very nice build man!!! great design ideas
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Old 12-11-2009, 02:19 AM
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You already know my sentiments on Three Dog, but I'll say 'em again: Excellent work.
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Old 12-11-2009, 04:33 PM
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Nice job! Great build quality. Looks like you've put some time into it.

Question though...when you have a band brake on the clutch and a chain tensioner, wouldn't that cause trouble? When braking, the chain's "load side" switches from the top of the chain loop to the bottom-taking out the slack. Doesn't that load up the tensioner? You know what I mean?
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Old 12-11-2009, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Eddie View Post
Nice job! Great build quality. Looks like you've put some time into it.

Question though...when you have a band brake on the clutch and a chain tensioner, wouldn't that cause trouble? When braking, the chain's "load side" switches from the top of the chain loop to the bottom-taking out the slack. Doesn't that load up the tensioner? You know what I mean?
Thanks for the positive feedback guys.

As for the clutch brake....it works great. The chain tensioner is a spring chain tensioner. When you modulate the brake, the chain tension transfers from the top of the chain to the bottom of the chain. The chain tensioner springs downward by approx. 1/2". The brake is a smooth transition. It's not jerky on the chain like you might think. I had the same reservations. But after some testing I found out it works great. It's a simple solution and very light weight being that it's using the existing clutch as a brake drum.
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Old 12-12-2009, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dowies View Post
Thanks for the positive feedback guys.

As for the clutch brake....it works great. The chain tensioner is a spring chain tensioner. When you modulate the brake, the chain tension transfers from the top of the chain to the bottom of the chain. The chain tensioner springs downward by approx. 1/2". The brake is a smooth transition. It's not jerky on the chain like you might think. I had the same reservations. But after some testing I found out it works great. It's a simple solution and very light weight being that it's using the existing clutch as a brake drum.
Good to hear. With only a 1/2" of throw on the tensioner, it probably wouldn't be that big of a deal.
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Old 12-13-2009, 12:50 PM
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i have seen the clutch brake done before, and i think its soo cool, because when set up correctly, you have the mechanical advantage of the gearratio working for you.
However, I have never seen the band mounted to the crankcase cover!!! that is freakin ingenious!!! its like perfect!!! kudos to you dowies!!!

do you think if bolted to the crankcase on a much heavier machine, one should worrry about the strength of the crankcase cover with one bolt in it? thanks, as i may use this on my much heavier minibike...

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Old 12-13-2009, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAMBY View Post
i have seen the clutch brake done before, and i think its soo cool, because when set up correctly, you have the mechanical advantage of the gearratio working for you.
However, I have never seen the band mounted to the crankcase cover!!! that is freakin ingenious!!! its like perfect!!! kudos to you dowies!!!

do you think if bolted to the crankcase on a much heavier machine, one should worrry about the strength of the crankcase cover with one bolt in it? thanks, as i may use this on my much heavier minibike...

Thanks Bamby. My clutch brake actually mounts to the crankcase with two bolts. I have a plate that is .750" X .125" X 3.00" in length. Two 8mm bolts go into the crankcase, and a 3/8" bolt goes to the band brake. It really works well.
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