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  #101  
Old 05-23-2018, 10:27 PM
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I got El Moto out today

But, she was TOTALLY DEAD

NOT just dead, "really" TOTALLY DEAD

Nothing lit up, buzzed, clicked or anything
...so, I grabbed the MM

The 48V battery pack showed 6.2V

Then, I checked them individually
...battery #1 (@ the positive output connection) showed 1.5V
...#2 showed 3.3V
...#3 showed 5.4V
...#4 (@ the negative out put connection) showed -3.9V
(seriously, it showed a minus)
(negative voltage, a new one on me)

So, yup
...I think I killed 'em &

I had the main cut-off, turned off while it was in storage for the winter
...but, yup another up

It seems that I didn't wire the DC to DC inverter to the cut-off switch
...I wired it straight to the battery pack
...it must have been drawin' a small amount of power all winter long

So, I'm guessin' (Naw, I'm pretty sure)
...that was a fatal (for the battery pack anyways) mistake

Well, can't get shook about it
...grandma always said "things happen for a reason"

* Note to self:
Don't do that again

Learning as I go
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  #102  
Old 05-23-2018, 11:54 PM
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Ugh!!! So how much will 3 new batteries set you back?
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  #103  
Old 05-24-2018, 07:59 AM
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Ugh!!! So how much will 3 new batteries set you back?
She started off runnin' @ 36V but, now she is runnin' @ 48V

(4) 12V 35AH HF solar batteries (that's what they were) are
...~$70.00 ea. x (4) = ~$280.00 plus tax
...weigh ~20 lbs. ea. x (4) = ~80 lbs.
...for only 35AH

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-vol...ery-68680.html

Maybe this is a good opportunity to move on to Lithium

I have been doin' lots of research on 'em

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38167

So far, I'm likin' the Chevy Volt lithium battery packs

(1) 2Kwh section is
...45V (nominal) so, I would only need (1)
...~47AH (2Kwh)
...only weighs ~45 lbs.
& seem to be plentiful in the ~$300.00 range

But, I have been reluctant to "pull the trigger"
...because there's a lot of "Very Important Details" to them
...like monitoring the balance, discharge & recharge rates & even worrying about the levels (per cell) of discharge & recharge

That's why I did all of the research & work on that STUPID Batt-Bridge

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38400

Still thinkin"
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  #104  
Old 06-16-2018, 03:16 PM
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Well, I did it

I am the proud owner of a 2kWh section of a Chevrolet Volt lithium Ion battery
...45V 47AH ($400.00 delivered)
...as opposed to (~$300.00) for (4) 12V 35 AH SLA batteries

It's only ~9 1/2" wide x 9 1/2" deep x 10 1/2" tall
...as opposed to the ~15" wide x 10" deep x 7" tall of the SLA batteries
...so, it should fit nicely on the bike

It only weighs ~45 lbs.
as opposed to the ~80 lbs. that the SLA batteries weighed
...so, the bike should handle better & get better "mileage"

According to my research, going from a 48V 35AH "Lead" battery pack to a 45V 47AH "lithium Ion" battery pack

I should have "roughly" double the "available" power (actual usable battery capacity)
...at about half of the weight
...& it should recharge in "roughly" 1/2 of the time that the lead battery pack took

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  #105  
Old 07-18-2018, 06:09 AM
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I have been takin' my time, this is a "whole lot of battery

I don't want to rush-n-mess something up

The battery pack fits in & looks great on the bike

I can't even see it when sitting on the bike
(I can just barely see it with the "gas" tank off)
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  #106  
Old 07-18-2018, 10:32 AM
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Quick update

I have done lots & lots more research

First, I discovered a few things that I set up kinda wrong
...the main power disconnect cannot be turned off (in an emergency) while riding the motorcycle (it's too far away)
...the speed controller on/off switch cannot be turned off (in an emergency) while riding, either (it's under the seat)


So, this spring, when I upgrade 'er to a 45V 2Kwh section of a Chevy Volt battery

I am going to mount a circuit breaker right on the battery lid, next to the positive (+) terminal

Reasoning:
This way it will be within reach of the rider (& eliminate a battery cable)

I am also going to (try) a 48V 150A circuit breaker, instead of the 500A fuse, that I am currently using

Reasoning:
Circuit breakers are resettable (if you blow a fuse, you better have a spare-with you)
...& I may be able to use it as a governor to help limit the amp draw

For the speed controller on/off switch
...I am going to connect the speed controller on/off wires to a relay, that's connected where the engine spark coil wires used to connect

Reasoning:
This way I can use the "stock" motorcycle off/run/off switch (on the handle bar) to turn the speed controller on/off just like "from the factory"
...& (I have not tried it yet) but, I think, the "stock" key switch should also turn the speed controller off
...kinda like a "double safety", in case I forget

More to come

As for the stuff I did wrong

First, I removed the on/off switch, (for the speed controller) that I previously mounted under the seat
& ran the wires up to a relay switch (under the "tank") that's controlled by the motorcycles ignition switch

Then, I removed
...the "extra" battery cables, connecting the "main" power cut-off switch
...the cut-off switch (itself)
& the 500A "main" power fuse

I'm gonna try a 150A circuit breaker, as a test
...as the "main" power cut-off switch
& as the "main" power fuse too


It should be the "weakest link" so, if it's "incompatible"

I "think" it should continuously "trip" the breaker
...but, (hopefully) not harm the system
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  #107  
Old 07-19-2018, 07:12 AM
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Now, we gotta figure

A way to mount the battery
...securely to the motorcycle

A place to mount the circuit breaker
...so, it's easily accessible while riding

& we need to mount a shunt ...somewhere
...for the Amp/Volt meter (to help keep an "eye" on what's happening inside of this thing)

Nothing can really be mounted "to" or "on" the battery cover
...not much room (~1/2") & open terminals (cell/pouch welds)

Hey, what about...them "new" plastic drill boxes @ Harbor Freight?

Ya, the red ones
...they'll even match the bike

Hmmmmm, just might work
...probably, have to go on the sides , not much room on top
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  #108  
Old 07-20-2018, 07:22 AM
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So, to monitor, protect & use this battery "safely" were gonna use
...a circuit breaker (as a fuse & main power disconnect)
& a "Tri-Quad" (3) meters (to monitor the internals)

I think these drill boxes (~2" thick x ~4" tall x ~6" wide) will work
...I'ma gonna give 'em a try anyways

I can mount the circuit breaker, in (1) box
& the shunt (a part of the meter circuit) in the other

If I mount (1) box on each side
...they'll look, kinda like, (mini) saddle bags

So, I started with the circuit breaker
...did some markin'-n-drillin'-n-cutting

Gettin' close
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  #109  
Old 07-20-2018, 10:15 AM
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Cleaned the opening up, a bit more, with a razor knife

Yup, that should do!

Looks Sweet!

Easy access
& all connections will be connected/protected inside
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  #110  
Old 07-21-2018, 07:50 AM
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I had to get another box for the other side
"BONUS" it comes with "FREE" drill bits

The bit holders & the cardboard inserts "pop" right out
...the stickers are kinda thick & peel off easily

Now, we have a good, matching & easily accessible place for the shunt
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  #111  
Old 07-23-2018, 06:07 AM
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We have some kool "mini saddle bags" to mount & protect our components

Now, we gotta get everything mounted
...the saddle bags on to the battery
& then, the battery on to the bike

Can't (well, I guess you can, but I'm not gonna) drill any holes into
...or screw anything into the battery itself

So, we gotta use adhesive (glue) or outside pressure (clamp or strap)

First, I tried a big (36") Zip Tie, that went all of the way around the battery, thru each box & back to itself
...it kept them on but, they still "moved around" a bit

I don't want to just "glue them on"
...how about some "Industrial Velcro" (the extra heavy duty kind)

This way, I can "glue them in place" & they'll still removable (if ever necessary)

So, I used both
...the Velcro locks them in place (no movin' around)
& the Zip Tie is a "safety strap" (just in case)
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  #112  
Old 07-23-2018, 09:12 AM
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Now, we gotta attach the battery pack to the bike

There are (4) ~9" x 1/4" threaded rod "bolts" that go thru the entire battery that (basically) hold it together
...(2) on each side (1) above & (1) below the coolant passage way

This battery pack has a coolant running thru it when used @ ~370V in a car
...it shouldn't be necessary when only running @ ~45V

It looks like I can simply attach a piece of small "angle steel" to each end
...using the (2) lower coolant passage bolts

Gonna have to get/use some longer "thru bolts"

12" x 1/4" threaded rod (~$1.00 ea.) were a bit long
...so, (after fitting & alignment) I wacked off ~1 1/2"

I cut (2) pieces of "angle steel"
...each ~ 8 1/2"
...drilled (2) holes in each piece, that aligned with the bolts on the battery
& bolted 'em to the battery

Set it on the bike
& got it centered & aligned

Then, marked the (4) mounting spots
...drilled the (4) 1/4" holes (2) in each piece
...smoothed the edges & cleaned 'em up a bit

A light coat of primer
& a couple of coats of gloss black paint

Yup, that should do it!
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  #113  
Old 07-23-2018, 03:34 PM
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Now, to hook 'er up

The power starts @ the battery packs positive (+) terminal

So, I attached a piece of 4g. cable to the battery's positive terminal via 1/4" x 4g. lug & 10mm nut
& connected the other end to the in "BATT" side of the circuit breaker via another 1/4" x 4g. lug & a 7/16" nut

Then, the power comes out of the "AUX" side of the circuit breaker
...thru another piece of 4g. cable via 1/4" lug x 4g. lug & a 7/16" nut & then connects to the contactor with a 3/8" x 4g. lug & a 17mm nut
&
Finally, the power comes out of the contactor via a 3/8" x 4g. lug & a 17mm nut & then connects to the B+ "bar" on the speed controller, using another 1/4" x 4g. lug & a 10mm nut-n-bolt

Now, to complete the circuit
...the negative (-) connects to the speed controllers B- "bar" (1/4" x 4g. lug) thru a piece of 4g. cable
& then connects to the P- side of the "shunt" (3/8" x 4g. lug)(mounted in the other "saddle bag")
&
Finally, another piece of cable connects the B- side of the shunt (3/8" x 4g.) to the negative terminal on the battery pack using a 10mm nut

* tip on cuttin' battery cables
...a cut-off tool can/will slice thru it like butter without smashing/deforming the end of the cable
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  #114  
Old 07-24-2018, 01:55 AM
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Looking really neat!!
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  #115  
Old 07-24-2018, 06:57 AM
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Here are the "Velcro" pics
...couldn't find 'em earlier
...good info, wanted to share

Oh, ya
...a video of progress (so far)

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  #116  
Old 07-25-2018, 12:21 AM
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Nice work as usual. Sorry I don't have any other comments
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  #117  
Old 07-25-2018, 08:36 PM
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I love all of the repurposing and reuse. Bummer about wasting those batteries. I pull all of mine out and set them near the house garage door. Reminds me to charge them throughout the winter.
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  #118  
Old 07-28-2018, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TT540 View Post
I love all of the repurposing and reuse. Bummer about wasting those batteries. I pull all of mine out and set them near the house garage door. Reminds me to charge them throughout the winter.
Thanks!

Learning as I go (won't do that again)

"Everything happens for a reason"
...probably would of procrastinated another year before going Lithium

Actually, now that I think about it, I used those Harbor Freight 12V 35AH Solar batteries to power

Double Trouble
El Dingo (before a speed controller)
Zero
El Turbo
& then El Moto

Good Batteries?
Yup!
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  #119  
Old 07-30-2018, 10:23 AM
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Been thinkin' & workin' on the "Tri-Quad" meter(s)

There are (3) separate gauges (~1" tall x 2" wide)
...but, its hard to fit 'em into where a 3" gauge used to go (old RPM gauge)

My buddy "Jim" @ Homers Cycle Shop gave me a couple of "make-it-yourself" gauge options, to try

First one looks like the back or cup for some kind of gauge
Second one looks like a chrome cover of some kind
Third is a non-functioning motorcycle speedometer (to gut, if necessary)
...or I could even "gut" the charge meter that's on the bike now

Nuthin's big enough
(2 gauges side by side are ~4" wide)

Still thinkin'
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  #120  
Old 07-30-2018, 11:06 AM
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Might be an option to get the square boxes, and place their innards into the roundy gauge. Should save a 1/2" for gauge
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