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  #21  
Old 04-26-2011, 03:13 PM
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i pumped it when the lines were attached and it was still on the kart. i removed the master cylinder to check that rubber piece out. ill do some checking up but from what i understand the master cylinder pumps the fluid to the brakes, but when i go to pump the air leaks out through there causing it to not pump the air to the brakes. is that correct?
  #22  
Old 05-07-2011, 01:19 PM
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A new master cylinder rebuild kit will cost me 30 bucks. Is there a website where i can find a cheap imitation master cylinder for around the same price? or would it be safer to just buy the rebuild kit and fix the one i have?
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Old 05-07-2011, 02:37 PM
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i pumped it when the lines were attached and it was still on the kart. i removed the master cylinder to check that rubber piece out. ill do some checking up but from what i understand the master cylinder pumps the fluid to the brakes, but when i go to pump the air leaks out through there causing it to not pump the air to the brakes. is that correct?
No, the system doesn't use air, thats the point of of bleeding, to get the air out. But a clamp on the out let hose of the master cylinder and press the pedal. It should be rock solid, if it goes down then you have a problem with the master cylinder.

Bleeding the brakes. Have a container and clear hose on the bleeder nipple. Open the nipple and tell someone to press the brake, make sure you tell them to hold it down. Otherwise when they let it off and the nipple is open, it will suck air back in. I usually tell them to give it 3 pumps and then hold it down, the fluid should be under pressure and flow out. In the clear hose you can see the air bubbles escaping.

If you have more than one brake, make sure you start with the one them farthest away from the master cylinder.

That was pretty general so, if you need anymore specific help, ask away.

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  #24  
Old 05-07-2011, 03:56 PM
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ok thanks, i think my brakes are good and its my master cylinder. so should i get the rebuild kit for it? or do you know of any cheap master cylinders like the one that i posted?
  #25  
Old 05-07-2011, 04:24 PM
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I dont know, being from NZ. But if it was me and I defiantly new it was the master cylinder, depending on the price I would look at a new one. Especially if you don't know what you are doing.

If a new one is going to 10-15 bucks more that the rebuild kit, it would be worth it IMO.

I play with more complicated master cylinders than that, so just wait until one of the other guys, that knows of a good site.

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  #26  
Old 05-10-2011, 12:48 PM
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Update: after looking around for a long time i found the manufacturers page and i was able to buy the rebuild kit directly from them for $10.50!! Yay! on ebay it wouldve came out to around 30 bucks for the rebuild kit so now its all good I have to send them the money order and then wait for them to send me the rebuild kit. i should have all the parts to fix my master cylinder next week.
  #27  
Old 05-17-2011, 01:52 PM
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Got the rebuild kit today Ill rebuild it when im done with my homework. ill probably not post any pics, i have a tendancy to just not take pauses at all when i start working.

hopefully by the end of the day ill be able to finish with the master cylinder and get the brakes bled.
  #28  
Old 05-21-2011, 07:20 AM
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i rebuilt the MC yesterday and nothing.. I tried blocking of both of the lines out and it still pumped even though nothing came out. and then i removed them and pumped to see if brake fluid would just spew out like its supposed to and nothing. just a little sputter of air and no brake fluid at all. don even get me started with trying to bleed the brakes

if someone could tell me what i am doing wrong id very much appreciate it. do i need to get a new master cylinder? i hope not
  #29  
Old 05-21-2011, 09:40 AM
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i rebuilt the MC yesterday and nothing.. I tried blocking of both of the lines out and it still pumped even though nothing came out. and then i removed them and pumped to see if brake fluid would just spew out like its supposed to and nothing. just a little sputter of air and no brake fluid at all. don even get me started with trying to bleed the brakes

if someone could tell me what i am doing wrong id very much appreciate it. do i need to get a new master cylinder? i hope not
Pump the MC, then tightly cover both outlets and release the pressure. Repeat about a dozen times. This took me 10 minutes on my truck, it shouldnt take so long with a kart.
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Old 05-21-2011, 05:47 PM
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Yip, you need to bleed the master cylinder first. Do as Devino said, just attach the the pipe but don't do it up tight, fill the reservoir with brake fluid and pump away, you should see the air bubbling out. Wait until you have no air coming out, then do the pipe up tight. Then bleed the wheel cylinders or caliper.

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  #31  
Old 05-29-2011, 08:06 AM
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i was there for 27 minutes trying to bleed just tha MC and didnt get anything but air. not even little sputters of brake fluid!! at this point im thinking sell the kart as is or change to a mechanical caliper set up.

the kart is starting to fit me kinda small and its a concession kart which imo looks kinda tacky, but then again i only paid 80 for the kart so i guess i shouldve expected tht i would have to pay a little more. id prefer to just sell it but idk. what do you guys think???
  #32  
Old 05-29-2011, 09:23 AM
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You need to try power-bleeding. Automotive mechanics use expensive power bleeder tools all the time especially with stubborn brake systems that just refuse to bleed out using the old 'pump the pedal' method.

You can make your own power bleeder for free. First get one of those nipple/caps like quart bottles of gear lube come with:



Cut just the very tip off the cap and screw it on your plastic bottle of brake fluid, then slightly tighten a hose clamp around the caps threaded area to make sure the cap seals and stays on.

My karts master cylinders have a round 3/8" hole in the cap used for filling. I just tip the brake fluid bottle upside down, stick it in that filler hole and slightly push/turn it in to make a seal. Then I loosen my calipers bleeders and start squeezing the bottle. This instantly flows brake fluid through the entire system forcing all the air out within seconds. Then while still slightly squeezing the bottle, (so you dont draw air back in) re-tighten your bleeders and voila your done. Brakes bled!

If your master cylinders cap does not have a small round hole like mine, there's a second power-bleeding option that works just as well: You simply power bleed from the other direction at the bleeder screw...

Use the same nipple-cap trick on your plastic brake fluid bottle, but this time find a length of new/clear hose that will tightly fit and slide onto both the caps nipple and also onto the outer nipple that most bleeder screws have.

(you can insert a pair of needle nose pliers in 1 end of this clear hose and pull the pliers handles apart to stretch/enlarge if necessary to make the hose larger and fit your bottles nipple. slightly heating this clear tubing with a flame will allow it to stretch even further)

If your brake bleeder doesn't have a nipple you can just remove the bleeder screw and stick the brake fluid bottles nipple right in the hole and squeeze.

Be sure to remove the master cylinders cap first so there wont be an air-lock and also so you can see when all the air has been forced out of the system.

One way or the other, you should be able to figure some way to power-bleed your brake system. You dont need (or want) to pump the pedal at all while power-bleeding.
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  #33  
Old 05-29-2011, 03:12 PM
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hey anderkart thanks for the tip. i tried it and got nothing. first i tried it through just the mc and didnt even get a little bit coming out. it just leaked from the top where the cap was. it was nice and tight too. idk wats wrong i guess im just not good with hydraulic brakes.

im gonna see if there are any local kart shops around that will fix the brakes for me. if its too much to fix em then ill just sell the kart.

i just dont see why that didnt work??
  #34  
Old 05-29-2011, 10:56 PM
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I tell you what, when you get the master blead, get a set of these in the size you need. they are nice! i put a set on my mustang a few months ago and they work great, all you have to do is open them a 1/4 turn and pump away at the pedal, while making sure the master is staying full.
http://speedbleeder.com/

You can get these at the local parts stores in the "help" section there around 5-7 bucks.
  #35  
Old 05-31-2011, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.concepcion54321 View Post
i rebuilt the MC yesterday and nothing.. I tried blocking of both of the lines out and it still pumped even though nothing came out. and then i removed them and pumped to see if brake fluid would just spew out like its supposed to and nothing. just a little sputter of air and no brake fluid at all. don even get me started with trying to bleed the brakes

if someone could tell me what i am doing wrong id very much appreciate it. do i need to get a new master cylinder? i hope not
So... even with the brake line removed from your master cylinder, you cant get any fluid out at all, even using my power-bleeding method?

If so, you've made some kinda mistake rebuilding/assembling, or you've got a port in your m/c that's still plugged up with sludge/debris.

You can fix this, dont give up dude
Even if you decide to re-sell this kart, it'll be worth more with functioning brakes. (plus you'll learn from the experience)
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  #36  
Old 05-31-2011, 02:08 PM
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ok, later ill try to take the MC apart. clean it good, and then put it back together and see if anything changes.
  #37  
Old 05-31-2011, 04:54 PM
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UPDATE: Just finished taking it apart, cleaning, inspecting, and then putting it back together. While doing that i read on the instructions that it requires DOT5 brake fluid. Ive been using DOT3. Could that be why? Does the brake fluid i use matter?
  #38  
Old 06-01-2011, 02:16 PM
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does the brake fluid i use matter??
  #39  
Old 06-01-2011, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
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does the brake fluid i use matter??


Quote:
Originally Posted by devino246 View Post
No no no no no no. Brake fluid, the top of the reservoir should say what type(DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5). Use only what it tells you to use, the wrong type of fluid can eat through rubber components.
Although using DOT 3 shouldnt have kept you from bleeding the MC, it can do some damage to DOT 5 components. There are certain components that HAVE to go in a certain way, installing backwards will prevent proper operation. Im thinking you could have installed something backwards.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:21 PM
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i just paid 10 bucks for some dot5 brake fluid. when i finish my HW ill try and bleed it.

i really hope it works cause if not then ill have wasted 10 bucks!!

ill letyou guys know later on what happens
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