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  #41  
Old 09-20-2019, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by landuse View Post
Any more arguing and both of you will be taking a holiday. Just cool it!!!
Wow, thanks.

I was beginning to be sorry I asked....

If it helps keep somebody from having flywheel shrapnel removed I guess it is OK but at a certain point it begins to reach the level of a d!(k measuring contest.
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  #42  
Old 09-22-2019, 01:49 AM
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Can you imagine a stock, OEM, new-off-the-shelf cast iron flywheel spinning at 10,000 revs?
One with a known history I mean.

Reading back I see Randy had put a link to the karting forum saying that was the norm. I think it's fair to say it was combination of factors; foolhardiness, someone actually running a damaged microfractured flywheel and taking it beyond 10K that turned it into a ticking time bomb. They basically doubled the revs they were putting on 'em and destroyed the safety margin.

In those days there was no specialized billet aluminum flywheels and a Briggs flywheel was a Briggs flywheel. Older abused ones got mixed in with new ones (or the ones cared for), and no real way to tell them apart, and things of that nature. We're smarter now and it only took one or two incidents to learn from it.
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  #43  
Old 09-22-2019, 08:22 AM
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Nowadays if you have the money and skill to build a flathead to turn 10K, WHY IN THE HECK DID YOU NOT GET AN ARC WHEEL???
Not pointing fingers at anyone, but there's no good reason to do that stuff nowadays.

---------- Post added at 08:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:20 AM ----------

But yeah, stock flywheels are generally Ok for ungoverned rpms(no cam, valve springs), but OP, you are responsible for inspecting your flywheel and deciding if it's safe or not.
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  #44  
Old 09-22-2019, 06:41 PM
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I hope at this point that anyone reading this would understand that high rpm Briggs require an aftermarket (billet) flywheel.

Equally, I hope that those who continue to warn that high rpm with a stock flywheel may get someone hurt, bad, realize that the point has been made, in spades.

In case anyone has missed it, I HAVE NO INTENTION OF BUILDING A HIGH RPM FIREBREATHER. I asked about mild performance mods. Thats all I plan to do. I have shaved it's eyebrows and ground off the casting flash in the ports. I will be installing a 22mm Mikuni clone and a straight pipe.

Thanks everyone for the well meaning safety warnings. Duly noted. Stock flywheel. No visible damage. I'm running it. No high rpms. Got it. Really!
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  #45  
Old 09-22-2019, 06:56 PM
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Are you putting in a performance rod? With the Mikuni I assume the governor is history, and with the extra flow I'd certainly want rod insurance. Rods are the most frequent catastrophic failure.

Note I said "performance". Doesn't have to be an ARC rod(although they are best, they're pricey), a one piece Raptor rod will also suffice, like the one I'm putting in my flathead.
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  #46  
Old 09-22-2019, 08:51 PM
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I still want to see a picture of the go kart man...

Pony up with the pics already...the worse it looks the better so no excuses...

That way when it's done and it looks so much the better everyone can compliment you on the improvements and you can feel good about it!

I roll on some ugly stuff myself!
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  #47  
Old 09-22-2019, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abone View Post
I hope at this point that anyone reading this would understand that high rpm Briggs require an aftermarket (billet) flywheel.....

....In case anyone has missed it, I HAVE NO INTENTION OF BUILDING A HIGH RPM FIREBREATHER.

Someone reading at this point could be confused by your generalizations so I think you need to give your personal definition of "high RPM".

Some people think the factory-governed maximum of 3,600 revs is "high". At what point do we (you) consider the revs high enough to warrant an aluminum "billet" flywheel? Bear in mind you've been given a lot of information here...


I think 10,000 RPM is my HIGH RPM, woooo! so I'm all for cutting those revs in half or around 4-6K to operate within the safe zone. I have no qualms about it whatsoever and routinely run around under 6K. Stock rod too.
Wait, I have no intention of ever running at 10K and the only way that can occur is if I went barreling down the side of a mountain and free-wheeled the engine.

Mine IS a "high RPM" firebreather. The straight tuned pipe I have allows me to see nearly into the combustion chamber. It belches a bit of fire but it's best seen at night.
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  #48  
Old 09-23-2019, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellion View Post
Someone reading at this point could be confused by your generalizations so I think you need to give your personal definition of "high RPM".

Some people think the factory-governed maximum of 3,600 revs is "high". At what point do we (you) consider the revs high enough to warrant an aluminum "billet" flywheel? Bear in mind you've been given a lot of information here...


I think 10,000 RPM is my HIGH RPM, woooo! so I'm all for cutting those revs in half or around 4-6K to operate within the safe zone. I have no qualms about it whatsoever and routinely run around under 6K. Stock rod too.
Wait, I have no intention of ever running at 10K and the only way that can occur is if I went barreling down the side of a mountain and free-wheeled the engine.

Mine IS a "high RPM" firebreather. The straight tuned pipe I have allows me to see nearly into the combustion chamber. It belches a bit of fire but it's best seen at night.
This is a good example of what I am gathering from what everyone is saying here EXCEPT the 10k part. My personal idea of high rpm is 6k.
Keep in mind,my experience is with 3 stock motor karts I have resurrected, one for my granddaughter to ride, two which I sold to make my money back on my initial purchase, and with a mini bike and kart I had as a kid circa 1967 where I discovered what happened when you turned the little thing on to of the carb, leading to my first ever mod, the one everyone started with, a piece of string attached to the throttle lever.

I am building this from what is left of the parts I bought, trying to use everything and not go out and buy new parts as much as possible.

I am a very conservative kinda guy in almost every way. Even as a kid I never pulled the string on my kart or mini bike for more than a few seconds. I promise I'll be good and respect the warnings I have been taught here. In the immortal words of the Dudley DoRight cartoon theme song. " You knew the job was dangerous when you took it".
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  #49  
Old 09-23-2019, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWes View Post
I still want to see a picture of the go kart man...

Pony up with the pics already...the worse it looks the better so no excuses...

That way when it's done and it looks so much the better everyone can compliment you on the improvements and you can feel good about it!

I roll on some ugly stuff myself!
Ok Wes, I apologize. I know that these forums run on pics. I get too excited about my projects to remember so I didn't get pics before I rebuilt the first three. The one that would have been fun would have been all five piled on my little utility trailer.
Anyway, here's what I have now. The black is the one I am putting the modded motor on. The red and white may be scrap. The red 5hp is my granddaughters driver. Click image for larger version

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  #50  
Old 09-23-2019, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWes View Post
I still want to see a picture of the go kart man...

Pony up with the pics already...the worse it looks the better so no excuses...

That way when it's done and it looks so much the better everyone can compliment you on the improvements and you can feel good about it!

I roll on some ugly stuff myself!
I have posted these elsewhere, these are the two I sold and the motor I am modding.
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  #51  
Old 09-23-2019, 10:01 AM
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Don't junk the red and white kart...

It has a nice look to it

And for some reason I feel it may be worth more than you think.
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  #52  
Old 09-23-2019, 10:08 AM
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YES!!! DON'T JUNK THE RED AND WHITE KART!!!!!
That's the exact same kind of kart as mine! A Bird Engineering Starbird, Model # 41553!
And you've got an actual Bird, not the toned down Sears version! You can tell by the seat.
And I think you have original rear aluminum split rims!!
KEEP IT!
If not, I'd buy it from you, but it's too far.
EDIT - Seeing your tie rod assembly confirms that my tie rods are also original. I think your kart may have been custom painted, but IDK.
EDIT #2 - That Starbird is also rare BTW.
*sigh* EDIT #3 - That one also hasn't been messed up framewise, so it's a pretty solid survivor. These Birds are built pretty well, so I would consider it a terrible idea to get rid of it. Skulldrinker on here also has one(along with mine of course).
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  #53  
Old 09-23-2019, 12:42 PM
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I knew someone would could along and give you the news ^^^^^^^

I don't as emotional... unless someone makes me mad but that's different....


Have fun with that....
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  #54  
Old 09-23-2019, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTSpeedDemon View Post
YES!!! DON'T JUNK THE RED AND WHITE KART!!!!!
That's the exact same kind of kart as mine! A Bird Engineering Starbird, Model # 41553!
And you've got an actual Bird, not the toned down Sears version! You can tell by the seat.
And I think you have original rear aluminum split rims!!
KEEP IT!
If not, I'd buy it from you, but it's too far.
EDIT - Seeing your tie rod assembly confirms that my tie rods are also original. I think your kart may have been custom painted, but IDK.
EDIT #2 - That Starbird is also rare BTW.
*sigh* EDIT #3 - That one also hasn't been messed up framewise, so it's a pretty solid survivor. These Birds are built pretty well, so I would consider it a terrible idea to get rid of it. Skulldrinker on here also has one(along with mine of course).
Alrighty then. Consider it saved. I had my own concerns about the tie rods and left to my own devices would have found some heim joints. The lack of a bar across the rear frame rails concerned me too. I only had 4 motors in the deal so I would have to find something for it. Anyhow it will be the last project of the five and I will hold on to it hoping somebody want to trade me a Rupp Abone for it....hope springs eternal...
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Old 09-23-2019, 01:16 PM
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hey got any of those ken bar split rims all mine where swapped out for manco ones and then someone smashed em up by hitting curbs and stuff (not me... ok i may have broken one by accident). i need one five inch and two four inch ones but if you dont have spares ill fix mine some other way
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Old 09-23-2019, 01:53 PM
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hey got any of those ken bar split rims all mine where swapped out for manco ones and then someone smashed em up by hitting curbs and stuff (not me... ok i may have broken one by accident). i need one five inch and two four inch ones but if you dont have spares ill fix mine some other way
I don't think so, now that I need to get all of them rolling, but I'll keep you in mind.
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Old 09-23-2019, 02:00 PM
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Alrighty then. Consider it saved. I had my own concerns about the tie rods and left to my own devices would have found some heim joints. The lack of a bar across the rear frame rails concerned me too. I only had 4 motors in the deal so I would have to find something for it. Anyhow it will be the last project of the five and I will hold on to it hoping somebody want to trade me a Rupp Abone for it....hope springs eternal...
A 5 HP flathead would be correct for powering it(and I'm biased myself, I admit).
The stock tie rods do have more play than is preferable, but they work fine on mine.
It might take a long time to find an Abone, and i'd be surprised if someone traded. Most people looking to trade a go kart for something are trying to get rid of their kart, and even then anyone who knows what an Abone is worth probably wouldn't do it.
The PO of my kart welded some flat stock between the rear rail ends(see picture), which I kinda like, except for the fact that it's not symmetrical(I plan to trim it 'til it's symmetrical).
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  #58  
Old 09-23-2019, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abone View Post
Alrighty then. Consider it saved. I had my own concerns about the tie rods and left to my own devices would have found some heim joints. The lack of a bar across the rear frame rails concerned me too. I only had 4 motors in the deal so I would have to find something for it. Anyhow it will be the last project of the five and I will hold on to it hoping somebody want to trade me a Rupp Abone for it....hope springs eternal...
I've got a briggs that needs a fuel system, 5hp flathead, pay shipping and you can have it if you'd like?
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  #59  
Old 09-23-2019, 02:54 PM
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I've got a briggs that needs a fuel system, 5hp flathead, pay shipping and you can have it if you'd like?
Thanks for the offer, I have a ways to go before I start on that one, but I'll keep you in mind and if the one I'm working on turns out OK, I may take you up on it. I just ordered the carb and head gasket today.
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Old 10-01-2019, 03:40 PM
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Well it runs. Waiting on a little welding my son is doing on the tank. Deceleration backfires like 4th of July. Pretty well pleased that out of a pile of rust and parts that I have been able to revive 4 out of 4 motors.
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