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  #21  
Old 08-08-2017, 10:16 AM
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yeah frankly, that looks like an advertisement more than an actual scientific test..
but anyways..
IF that would be a matter of being full synthetic, then explain why the quaker state full synth doesn't reach about'ish the same values as the leftmost two..

Also poring is (can be) an indication but it's nothing relevant really..
since if it were the latter two would have gotten a 0W rating easily, and could sell their oil for a buck per quart more just as easily...
(frankly it's almost as telling as "fresh" color)

So yeah nooo, really.. of course all of that is a matter of min/max values in regards to the previous rating.
But that's basically all the span there is, and while full synth oils have some benefits sometimes, they have some serious drawbacks as well (again at times)

What you're likely missing is the simple fact that it's the additives that make the rating.
and yes, added to synthetic oil has a different influence than to mineral oil, than to vegetable oil.
BUT it's a matter of altering the additive not the oil really.
as with mineral oil most companies get their "pure oil" (to not call it raw )
from one maybe two sources.

Anyways, yes improvements on additives makes things easier (widen the range but doesn't alter the ones we have.
And yes, I think I suspect it's easier to make an additive for a synthetic oil where you can as well slightly alter it's molecules to bind with the additive easier.
But no matter what the equations WILL ALWAYS stay the same
(the beaty in science is, there might be different ways, but viable routes will always remain valid!)

So yeah, still: the equation will NOT change, the rating we have is highly unlikely to change,
expanded.. perhaps some day (just recently SAE 16 was added.. before 20 was lowest)

'sid
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  #22  
Old 08-08-2017, 02:02 PM
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Do some research. They use only synthetics now in extremely cold temperatures.
Your stated numbers are from the days before synthetic motor oil.
  #23  
Old 08-18-2017, 06:43 AM
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can i use 15w-40 oil for a 5 hp engine?
  #24  
Old 08-18-2017, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gokartt View Post
can i use 15w-40 oil for a 5 hp engine?
I wouldn't.. maybe in my lawn mower.. Not my Kart... Get some proper stuff.. it's nicer to your Engine...
  #25  
Old 08-19-2017, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by gokartt View Post
can i use 15w-40 oil for a 5 hp engine?
Any particular reason why you wanna run that oil?

Oil is oil these days. You could probably run that and get by, especially in the southwest region where it's likely to hit 100+ Fahrenheit on days like these. In the winter time--good luck getting it started.

These air cooled engines run quite hot, literally twice that (and then some) of your motorcar so a heavier oil might be called for. I stay with 30 weight oil, either straight or winter/multi viscosity... but that's just me, sticking to what the manufacturer typically states. They know better than I.
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  #26  
Old 08-19-2017, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goat View Post
Do some research. They use only synthetics now in extremely cold temperatures.
Your stated numbers are from the days before synthetic motor oil.
the numbers are from a document newer than 2013
obvious hint:
otherwise SAE16 wouldn't have been in it
(that was only added Apr. 2nd 2013 )

go do research yourself!

'sid

PS talking of which.. let's add the 2015 additions as well...
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  #27  
Old 08-19-2017, 01:38 PM
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  #28  
Old 08-19-2017, 11:37 PM
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you're still not getting it, do you?
SAE classification of oil gives a flying shirt about if a certain oil is better or worse for any application.
it's ONLY testing and rating it under the same rules for all manufacturers to make them comparable.

Therefor there might be new classifications added, but the existing ones are unlikely to vanish or change.
Thus your claim
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goat View Post
I think fully synthetic oil changes the equation, the flow rate, and temperature range.
is complete BS!

Now, the reason I asked you to do your research and figure out yourself that you're off by more than a mile is this small history lesson:
first full synthtic oil was available since the mid 70s (1974 ... Mobil 1 5W-20 Formula)
the first SAE classification for oil viscosity is also from the mid 70s (may 12th 1975 to be exact)

See it? yes that's right.. SAE ratings are YOUNGER than the fully synthetic oils,
thus we can be terribly sure they're meant to include not only mineral but synthetic motor oils as well

But go on, embarrass yourself all you like.

'sid
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  #29  
Old 08-20-2017, 06:13 PM
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Sid. I think you are a little confused. A good moderator should be able to admit when he is wrong. Regards, goat
  #30  
Old 08-20-2017, 07:22 PM
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  #31  
Old 08-20-2017, 08:09 PM
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Retired goats should go out to pasture.
  #32  
Old 08-20-2017, 08:35 PM
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Retired goats should go out to pasture.
Well, that's just harsh, new guy.
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  #33  
Old 08-20-2017, 09:06 PM
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Retired goats should go out to pasture.
And old cats just get fat.
Not that there's anything wrong with a fatcat!
  #34  
Old 08-20-2017, 10:05 PM
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Why do I have the feeling Goat created Sammycat

Let's not screw up this thread
  #35  
Old 08-20-2017, 10:33 PM
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I've been reading about "Energy saving" oil.
Supposedly it's bad for motorcycles, mainly the clutches.
  #36  
Old 08-21-2017, 06:43 PM
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I've been reading about "Energy saving" oil.
Supposedly it's bad for motorcycles, mainly the clutches.
I know something of which you speak, BBQ.

This newer oil has "friction modifiers" that mess with a motorcycle's wet clutch plates; makes your clutch malfunction. AFAIK, these are usually synthetic oils.

You have to therefore seek out motorcycle-friendly, or wet-clutch-safe oils.

I've got some Valvoline full synth oil, 10W-40, set aside for the Death Trap's next oil change...
It's motorcycle oil, so I know I'm good.
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  #37  
Old 08-21-2017, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellion View Post
I know something of which you speak, BBQ.

This newer oil has "friction modifiers" that mess with a motorcycle's wet clutch plates; makes your clutch malfunction. AFAIK, these are usually synthetic oils.

You have to therefore seek out motorcycle-friendly, or wet-clutch-safe oils.

I've got some Valvoline full synth oil, 10W-40, set aside for the Death Trap's next oil change...
It's motorcycle oil, so I know I'm good.
From what I've read Mobil 1 15W50 seems to be a favorite for bikes.
  #38  
Old 08-24-2017, 01:08 AM
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You guys should read the oil threads on the kart racing forum. One is pretty recent.
They like oils with anti-foaming properties. Seems 10W-30 is less common.

Listed oils were...
Champion 5W-20
AMSOIL Z-rod
Amsoil 4T
Cheapest Walmart 0W-20
Amsoil Dominator Racing Oil 5W-20
Amsoil Dominator Racing Oil 10W-30
http://youtu.be/KD-AOa-xLRU LOL FHB
FHS 62-R
Thor PAG Oil

I don't know know what any of that means, but seems they like 20 weight over 30 weight for racing.
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  #39  
Old 08-24-2017, 09:12 PM
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Too bad we're not racers.

For general oil concerns, I peruse BITOG forums.
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  #40  
Old 09-19-2017, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bbqjoe View Post
I've been reading about "Energy saving" oil.
Supposedly it's bad for motorcycles, mainly the clutches.
Yes, because motorcycles have wet clutches that rely on the engine oil. It's the same for manual transmission ATVs.

The way I explain oil is it's viscosity when it's cold vs warm. 5W30 is thinner than 10W30 when it's cold, which allows for easy starting. At proper temperature they are both 30 weight oils. That's why a snowblower for example will call for 5W30, whereas a lawn mower would call for 10W30 or just SAE 30.

I personally run 5W30 in all my machines (Except the quad which has a wet clutch, it gets 5W40 ATV oil)

In addition, Energy saving oils are even thinner again (Usually being 5W20 for example), when the engine is warm it is a 20 weight oil, allowing it to turn with less resistance. They say it saves something like $100 per year on fuel right there. In the case of a motorcycle, you need that higher weight oil (IE why an ATV takes a 40 weight oil) to avoid clutch damage. So yes, running an energy conserving oil in a motorcycle could cause damage if it has a manual transmission.
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