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  #81  
Old 10-13-2014, 10:20 AM
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Yes opposite sides for the wear tabs and yellow spring. Yes it sucks to take apart as the spring is heavier duty and may shoot the cam off. Snap ring removal tool is nice to have for this. Also, I have never seen a backplate for the 40 series like that. If that's the way it came new, then great! If not, then who knows and I apologize in advance for it failing as they are only rated up to 8 HP... And will flex and who knows what else under all that extra torque. I have only seen those on the 30 series, I have been wrong about lots of stuff before though.... Then again it looks like it's been modified/drilled to fit will suck if it breaks.

Your problems with red spring orientation I have experienced. I just ended up making a 3/16" plate /tube Jackshaft setup that was heavy duty.

If you want to do it right with no welding you can buy some pillow block bearings and make your own Jackshaft setup with red spring.. no welding required I think.
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  #82  
Old 10-16-2014, 03:44 PM
mnmbarna mnmbarna is offline
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While waiting for the yellow spring to arrive, I've been reading some threads about gear ratios. Just wondering if my kart set up is even right before I try out this new spring on the driven. I saw the calculator for figuring out your speed and gear ratio, but not sure if I have the right ratio for my kart. So, I have a 420cc engine(I think it's a predator, which would max at 3600 rpm), the comet 40, rear tires measure 21 inches diameter(even though they say 22 on them), 72 tooth axle sprocket(which is welded onto the axle), and 10 tooth clutch sprocket on the jack shaft. Need to know if this is common for my kart. I don't want to burn up my brand new comet 40. I'm thinking I might need a 12 tooth clutch sprocket.
Any words of wisdom?
  #83  
Old 10-16-2014, 05:45 PM
mnmbarna mnmbarna is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gran_pann View Post
Yes opposite sides for the wear tabs and yellow spring. Yes it sucks to take apart as the spring is heavier duty and may shoot the cam off. Snap ring removal tool is nice to have for this. Also, I have never seen a backplate for the 40 series like that. If that's the way it came new, then great! If not, then who knows and I apologize in advance for it failing as they are only rated up to 8 HP... And will flex and who knows what else under all that extra torque. I have only seen those on the 30 series, I have been wrong about lots of stuff before though.... Then again it looks like it's been modified/drilled to fit will suck if it breaks.

Your problems with red spring orientation I have experienced. I just ended up making a 3/16" plate /tube Jackshaft setup that was heavy duty.

If you want to do it right with no welding you can buy some pillow block bearings and make your own Jackshaft setup with red spring.. no welding required I think.
Yeah, I was worried about the backing plate too. I had to cut part of it to be able to move the driven up enough. All this headache with putting the 40 series on though, I'm wondering if it would be a better idea(and easier) to just put the 30 series back on since it already has the backing plate, and put in a smaller engine. Harbor Freight usually has a sale on the predator 212cc for $100. Otherwise, like you said, I'd risk breaking that plate...then I'm screwed. What you think?
  #84  
Old 10-16-2014, 05:59 PM
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Build your own jackshaft. That plate is your weak link..... Get some 5x3 1/4" thick and drill it for bearings and bolts..... Motor mount slots..... Then you can throw a crap ton of power at it......
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  #85  
Old 10-17-2014, 02:28 AM
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No doubt. Problem is trying to find time to do it.
  #86  
Old 11-10-2014, 11:18 PM
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Here is how to preload the spring in the TC if it hasn't been stated before (courtesy of Half-Breeder)

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