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  #21  
Old 03-04-2010, 05:46 AM
truesprocket truesprocket is offline
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Default any body have this problem or is this all theary!

really who here has had a problem with sillicone in there engine & if so who ran the bead ? "YOU" ? I've bought lot's of badly used stuff seen herendous calking job's & to date have never lost an engine to something like this, if you'r going to pump that much inside you crankcase let someone else do it!
  #22  
Old 03-04-2010, 02:27 PM
Kenny_McCormic Kenny_McCormic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solomon View Post
Exactly, i don't think you can get much thinner than .010 of an inch
.010" is pretty thick.
  #23  
Old 03-04-2010, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truesprocket View Post
really who here has had a problem with sillicone in there engine & if so who ran the bead ? "YOU" ? I've bought lot's of badly used stuff seen herendous calking job's & to date have never lost an engine to something like this, if you'r going to pump that much inside you crankcase let someone else do it!
Go ahead, use all the silicone you want, but when the endplay in the crank isnt enough, and you get problems, dont come running back here. For the cost of the right gasket its just not worth it.
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  #24  
Old 03-04-2010, 03:22 PM
solomon solomon is offline
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Simply Fix is use a Gasket =P, Use Silicone only if you MUST
  #25  
Old 03-30-2010, 06:03 PM
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i did this today and it was very easy. also instead of putting the arm back in i just put a bolt that was slightly larger to thread it. worked fine. i reused the spring i removed from the arm linkage and attached it to the butterfly valve on the carburetor to keep it shut. it also i was careful to not tear the gasket and just reused it. the engine runs great now. thanks for this post it really helped.
  #26  
Old 03-30-2010, 07:02 PM
solomon solomon is offline
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Great to hear! I only reused the arm because it looks stock from the outside, and you don't have to find a bolt that fits! Did you use thread lock or a bit of sealant on the threads of that bolt? Because you might want to. This Thread Really Needs to be Stickied.
  #27  
Old 03-31-2010, 10:58 AM
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yes. i used some locktight to make sure it wasnt going anywhere. what would be the worst thing that could happen if it did come out?
  #28  
Old 03-31-2010, 02:36 PM
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oil would start slinging out, you would probably loose some power from pressure reducing, the low oil would then cause parts to wear internally, and if going around 5000 RPM, with low oil you are just asking for trouble. If you are really worried, remove the bolt and thread a nut on it. Then add locktite, thread the bolt back in, and tighten the nut against the block. Now you can be rest assured your safe!
  #29  
Old 03-31-2010, 06:36 PM
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yea. i would need a longer bolt to go the distance through the sleeve and put the bolt through the inside to prevent the nut coming off inside of the engine. that way the bolt would still be threaded and not fall out. this is what i am going to do because it sounds safer. how much oil should it have? to the bottom of the plastic cap?
  #30  
Old 03-31-2010, 06:43 PM
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You have really small hands... that Dave guy would love this posting. (just kidding dude, but please dont go to his farm alone)

On a side note, just to help people understand what removing the governor on an engine usually leads to, I'll use this illustration...



All pictures I'm posting btw are taken by me from the shop. Pwn.
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  #31  
Old 03-31-2010, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blazkowiez View Post
You have really small hands... that Dave guy would love this posting. (just kidding dude, but please dont go to his farm alone)

On a side note, just to help people understand what removing the governor on an engine usually leads to, I'll use this illustration...



All pictures I'm posting btw are taken by me from the shop. Pwn.
That is what removing the governor, and being stupid does. Or, removing the governor on a tecumseh
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  #32  
Old 03-31-2010, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaptain Krunch View Post
That is what removing the governor, and being stupid does. Or, removing the governor on a tecumseh
I think it was the 2nd one

I don't mean open the block and put a nut inside i mean do this
The nut goes in front of the bolt, so when you tighten the bolt into the governor bushing, you crank the bolt against the block to keep it thier.
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  #33  
Old 03-31-2010, 08:12 PM
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i don't see how this will strengthen it anymore. i was saying i would put the bolt in from the inside of the block and the nut on the outside to hold it there. mine has a brass fitting that is about an inch long on the inside that i threaded it into.
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  #34  
Old 03-31-2010, 08:36 PM
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It would not allow the bolt to thread out from vibration. if you want to put a bolt on the inside make sure its a nylon bolt. The way you have it now is fine most likely, just watch it here and thier and see if it backs off, only put that nut on it if you are paranoid about it. I bet you did a great job though!
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  #35  
Old 03-31-2010, 08:56 PM
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yea.. im prbly not going to mess with it. just keep an eye on it to see if it is coming out. should be fine how it is. thanks man.
  #36  
Old 03-31-2010, 08:56 PM
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I'll post a picture of a blown block on a Briggs tomorrow if I can find it on my computer... you cant rag on that Tecumseh too hard they all break after a while... I cant remember if it was I/C or not but it was an 8hp, such a shame.

Glad I made Tyler laugh...
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  #37  
Old 03-31-2010, 09:06 PM
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i know, i was just saying tecumseh is know for it, but ****, briggs can't even make motors for karts anymore because they caused so many injuries, i just nag on tecumseh because well i dont like them =P, at least im being honest .
  #38  
Old 04-01-2010, 02:50 AM
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Does it matter if you have the bolt on the inside? As I have 2 bolts on the inside
in my clone: gov bolt and low oil bolt
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  #39  
Old 04-01-2010, 03:14 AM
solomon solomon is offline
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If the bolt is not nylon, at least on a 5hp Briggs Flatty, the nut will wiggle loose, fall in the motor and then well thats all she wrote.
  #40  
Old 04-03-2010, 07:29 AM
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Pretty good tutorial. 2 things that i would add in.
1. I wouldnt put the old governer arm back in to "plug" up the hole. Do it properly and tap it out and put a bolt in it. Its only aluminium (most of the time) so its pretty soft.

2. Dont use silicon as a gasket. More than likely its going to come off and that **** will clump up in places u dont want it too and might oil starve some places. I use cereal box cardboard and make a new gasket. I have a tutorial on how to make a new gasket here:
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