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  #41  
Old 03-22-2019, 09:38 AM
TylerFrankel TylerFrankel is offline
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Originally Posted by Tpdingo View Post
I don't see why it should be a different metal. I did ring swaps in those engines before, they should be the same material. If it was run without oil, it is possible that the second ring took the brunt of the force, and the properties changed as it heated up. If you heat steel very hot and cool it down, it turns brittle.
Interesting... I read that online but it wasn't specific to these so it probably applied more to a different engine. I bet that it did take the force because it was seized to the piston in a spot and the piston slots were "pinched" over it a bit and I had to loosen it.
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  #42  
Old 03-31-2019, 10:11 AM
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Default Ouchie

I got her going Friday, and things were looking positive. The brakes work now, but I had to replace the brand new cable almost immediately because tightening the brake pin on it frayed it up Not very high quality cable I suppose. Luckily I had some general purpose cable in the shed that fits as a replacement. The engine runs good, except it dies if I floor it and let it drop back to idle.... and it seems to go about 25 Miles per hour stock right now. I can tell the governor kicks in after I reach that speed. Also, my rear wheels were sliding around without those collars and my chain keeps popping off but once I figure that out, we're good. It also would periodically make a rubbing sound, I can't tell if its the band brake contacting the sprocket or the chain getting loose or what, but overall we were doing good.

Until one time, it stalled after the chain came off and once I put it back together and tried starting it. Unbeknownst to me, the throttle lever on the accelerator wedged itself against some metal at wide open throttle! When I started it, she launched away.

Never seen her since

Kidding, it juiced super hard, lifted the front tires, and ran into my neighbors mailbox full tilt, destroying the thing and flipping my kart. The kart continued running after flipping, dumping oil and fuel everywhere. By the time I ran to it, it had been running without proper lubrication for a minute or so and now there's even more scoring on the piston Uhh, and my gas tank is scratched and the muffler guard is bent. oh, the front tie rod also got bent pretty hard.

Well, at the end of the day it was honestly not that bad. I fixed the mailbox and took it home to get to repairs. The throttle lever has been adjusted so that it won't get stuck, the tank is being patched up and I don't care about that muffler guard. The tie rod banged out straight again pretty well, although it seems to have more caster than I remember it doesn't seem to terribly extreme. I might lightly sand the piston and wall with 450 grit paper just to get out any extrusions, and then I'm running some full synthetic oil with Restore additive through it, because I've seen some videos of that stuff working wonders. We're still stuck with an engine that dies when its floored and then let down to idle, a chain that pops off, and an unknown rubbing sound that comes and goes, often before the chain comes off. Once I get the wheels locked in place, and situate my chain, I think we'll be ok. Only real consequence here is having to buy that new mailbox

Oh yeah, and the stripped nut on the rear wheels stayed in tact through this all, so I'm feeling better about that.

If anyone has any suggestions, or just comments in general that'd be awesome. Remember: Start your kart facing a SOLID OBJECT. Learn from my idiocy.
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  #43  
Old 03-31-2019, 12:57 PM
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Three words: Ouchie.
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  #44  
Old 03-31-2019, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerFrankel View Post
Remember: Start your kart facing a SOLID OBJECT. Learn from my idiocy.
Or stick a friend on it so when it goes full throttle they're in for a fun ride
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  #45  
Old 03-31-2019, 01:41 PM
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There was one Carsandcameras video where they were working on their Predator 670 "Black Widow" kart, and they had done some sort of adjustment I think to the governor.
"Why don't you get in and give it a little gas so I can start it?"(I'm paraphrasing)
(cranks engine)
Takes off drifting and making unintentional donuts in the yard.
(John laughing hysterically)
They were very lucky something like what happened to you didn't happen!
Although they did crash the kart later...
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  #46  
Old 03-31-2019, 03:04 PM
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Ahh yes, the V twin wheelie machine! If only I had been on the kart, mine has a kill switch right under the wheel. After the event I thought I should find a way to loop the pullstart in a way that would allow me to start from the seat.

I took the engine apart yesterday and inspected it, forgetting which tappet went to exhaust and intake in the process. I also realized I have no idea how hard to torque the connecting rod bolts to. This build is going to be very interesting, and chaotic, to say the least.
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  #47  
Old 03-31-2019, 03:34 PM
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I think conrod torque(at least on ARC billet rods) is 100 in/lbs(not sure, though).
As for starting it from your seat, that ain't gonna happen unless you've go electric start. You simply won't have the leverage or freedom of movement to do it, and in addition to that, if you loop the starter rope around, the amount of friction will really make it a pain in the butt to start(if you can at all)
My kart also has a kill switch beneath the steering wheel.
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Old 03-31-2019, 04:54 PM
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My kart also has a kill switch beneath the steering wheel.
Two of mine have kill switches on the steering wheels, have yet to get ones for the others. Don't need more if they don't run lol. Have to pull apart one of my flatheads and switch around the the tappits again. Dropped them
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  #49  
Old 04-02-2019, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTSpeedDemon View Post
I think conrod torque(at least on ARC billet rods) is 100 in/lbs(not sure, though).
As for starting it from your seat, that ain't gonna happen unless you've go electric start. You simply won't have the leverage or freedom of movement to do it, and in addition to that, if you loop the starter rope around, the amount of friction will really make it a pain in the butt to start(if you can at all)
My kart also has a kill switch beneath the steering wheel.
Figured that wouldn't really work, my arm can't bent 90 degrees backwards

I might invest in electric starting conversion or something so I can be on it when it starts and it doesn't fly away.

Those are supposed to be 100 inch LBS but I don't have a way to measure. Guestimating never hurt right

I'll get a wrench soon before I run it hard, but the con rod is not loose or rattling, but it doesn't feel like it has excess resistance, so I'll be aight.

Right now I just need to address my carburetor acting up. After reassembling it it has lost its mind. I've tried cleaning the ports but I'm very confused, it seems like every briggs carburetor is slightly different. Mine has a port on the right in front of the choke, a port behind the choke and in front of the throttle, (of course the main jet and passage), two holes that come from the main jet (one big for main jet, one small), and then 3 tiny holes in the wall behind the throttle plate. Oh, and an air bleed. I don't know where everything connects, and can't get anything through the lines because of the sharp turns in the "tubes" of the carb. I thought it was clean but it definitely isn't working right..
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  #50  
Old 04-10-2019, 10:33 AM
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I realized today that maybe instead of worrying about trying to rethread and/or drill a hole for a bolt or cotter pin, I could just... get a lock collar to go on the other side of the wheel. The wheel already has a lock collar holding it in place on one side, so I imagine one on the other side would work too. At least, it should be secure enough for riding around the neighborhood, right? Let me know what you all think. Thanks!

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