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  #21  
Old 11-20-2016, 07:12 AM
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That probably would've been easier, but I don't know if it would handle the open mod flathead I'm about to get.
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  #22  
Old 11-20-2016, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jfive View Post
Tools needed:
1.) Duct tape.


I'm sold.
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  #23  
Old 11-20-2016, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob58o View Post
Tools needed:
1.) Duct tape.
I'm sold.
You did not read far enough...

Layout tools- square, tape measure, ruler, scratch awl, markers, pencils, etc.
Wrenches
Screwdrivers
Welder and welding gear (hood, gloves, etc)
Grinder
Cutter of some sort- plasma, torch, or even a hacksaw.
Wiring tools
Electric Tape
Duct tape. You never know, right?!

Other Supplies you will need:

2 digital multimeters (cheap ones run about $3.00)
Some Tie-downs

But yes I mean Who (besides me) does not have a treadmill in the basement that NEVER gets used!
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  #24  
Old 11-20-2016, 04:08 PM
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Picked up the torque adapter today.
https://youtu.be/KKxX3AYPBR0

I also spent some quality time with my welder building the framework.
https://youtu.be/UrBWQbIon_A

Hopefully I can test it within the next couple of days.

I also don't own a treadmill.
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  #25  
Old 11-20-2016, 04:47 PM
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That is so cool.....
He he I guess I was the first to see that second one......

What was the Hydraulic motor you are using?
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  #26  
Old 11-20-2016, 05:00 PM
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Thank you. The pump is an oil pump from a big block chevy. About a $30 part brand new, this was a used high volume one I have left over from a 454 that's another project of mine so it was free, I think there has to be a better option for a pump as all the welding warped it enough that I ended up having to take it apart and tweak the idler shaft, and machine a little off of the length of the gears to make it turn free again. It would probably be better to tap the holes and put screw in fittings in rather than welding, after this little project I don't really recommend welding on an oil pump.
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  #27  
Old 11-20-2016, 05:15 PM
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After a quick check of what they look like....... Why not use double ended studs w/nuts to hold onto the rear cover. Weld the adapter to a plate with matching holes to that bolt pattern.... Bolt tight with a few nuts.
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  #28  
Old 11-20-2016, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mckutzy View Post
After a quick check of what they look like....... Why not use double ended studs w/nuts to hold onto the rear cover. Weld the adapter to a plate with matching holes to that bolt pattern.... Bolt tight with a few nuts.
That is a far superior idea over welding. If this works, there'll have to be at least a second version to maybe make it a little better.
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  #29  
Old 11-20-2016, 05:24 PM
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At this point.... sadly due to my unemployment..... Iam living vicariously through you my friend.... and happy to keep my mind on something else.... and helping thinking this through....

This is a really cool project... I havent been this enthused in a long while....
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  #30  
Old 11-20-2016, 05:26 PM
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I appreciate the feedback, two heads are better than one.

I'm sure you noticed that I adopted the hillbilly dyno name too. Thanks for that, kind of just rolls off of the tounge.
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  #31  
Old 11-20-2016, 05:52 PM
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Submit your TM quickly....

PM me later, for where you can send the royalty cheque's to....

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  #32  
Old 11-20-2016, 06:02 PM
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That pump has a pressure relief, right? Or did you put a hillbilly delete kit on it?
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  #33  
Old 11-20-2016, 06:09 PM
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I hillbilly deleted it with my welder. See PT1.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mckutzy View Post
Submit your TM quickly....

PM me later, for where you can send the royalty cheque's to....

Honestly, I'm more interested in putting a DIY soloution out there for the little guy. Money means almost nothing to me (not because I have any, I just don't chase that long green).
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  #34  
Old 11-20-2016, 06:24 PM
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Sorry, I missed that.
Super cool project.
Now I have a lot of reading to do on dynos. Thanks.
Will that pump ever run deadheaded?
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  #35  
Old 11-20-2016, 06:29 PM
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It'll either be ran as hard as it needs to be to load the motor right, or until it explodes. Whichever is fine with me. This is nothing more than a public experiment.
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  #36  
Old 11-20-2016, 07:03 PM
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If it works, it works. If it doesn't, you'll learn what you did wrong and can make the necessary adjustments for a new one.
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  #37  
Old 11-21-2016, 05:50 PM
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First test using a drill motor
https://youtu.be/X_1WWhgSNFM
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  #38  
Old 11-21-2016, 06:05 PM
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NICE!
I think you need something or things to establish a base line.
Like a Stock motor that is "supposedly" say 8 ft Lb torque output.
Then see if you get that reading.
Does the Drill have a torque Rating?
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  #39  
Old 11-21-2016, 06:26 PM
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Thanks. I don't know how accurate it'll be, but I think it'll be fairly close. I think the hoses will affect the movement of the pump, but not much. Regardless, I'll have a numerical reference of the power I'm making which will give me something better than the seat of the pants when I'm tuning my motors. My flathead should come back with a dyno sheet, so I'll compare it with that if it'll take it.
Honestly I didn't even think to look at the drill for a rating, I'll check tomorrow. I didn't close the valve a whole lot because I want to add some bracing before I get wild with it.
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  #40  
Old 11-21-2016, 06:27 PM
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very cool ..

now all you'd need is a tach to measure the shaft speed and you'd be set to calc power.

NICE, even looks simple enough to replicate really..
BUT, with a setup like that you measure the needed torque...
so in order to find the MAXtorque of the engine/motor atached, you need to stall it.
And frankly that sounds a bit scary IYAM.

So may I suggest using a reversely installed Tesla Valve instead?
it doesn't have any moving parts, and uses the fluids flowrate [created turbulences] as it's own brake,
thus, as soon as it is about to stall (and the fluid is about to no longer flow...) it's resistance
decreases enough (Or so I assume) to NOT stall or break anything.

Downside.. I know no commercially avalable tesla valve tbh.. but It shouldn't be too difficult to have one made (simple 2D milling job)

'sid
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