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  #41  
Old 11-26-2012, 10:43 AM
ddowns46 ddowns46 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamyers View Post
One question: When engaged or disengaged, are there side loads towards the engine, and if so is there some sort of thrust bearing?

I ask because when I was a kid I had a kart with a friction clutch (basically two pieces of steel with a sprocket sandwiched between them on the crankshaft, when "in gear" a lever/bearing pushed the sandwich together and made the sprocket turn). It worked well, but ate crankshaft bearings with the side load.
Yes, zero thrust load on the crank with this clutch.
  #42  
Old 11-28-2012, 09:49 AM
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Default manual clutch

Anything new on the manual clutch? Very interested. There is a company in Michigan that produces manual clutches, including ones with sprokets mounted. Not specifically for kart applications but would probably work. Lost the contact information, however. Anyone know who I am referring too?
  #43  
Old 11-28-2012, 01:10 PM
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Default Manual Clutch



Here is one. expensive. http://www.tbwoods.com/Products_Mech...es_Rotocam.asp
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  #44  
Old 11-30-2012, 10:25 AM
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any update?
  #45  
Old 11-30-2012, 11:44 AM
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any update?
Yes,

The clutch is fully assembled now with the exception of the friction liner. I found a local shop to take care of the liner which they can do by the end of the next week.

I've temporarily installed shims in place of the liner in order to test out the clutch actuator mechanism: works flawlessly! The clutch engages and disengages just as it is supposed to. I have very little doubt, now, that this clutch will not work as intended.

I'm also trying to work a deal on one of my friends go karts to complete all of the preliminary testing. I think I could be testing as early as next weekend!
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:10 PM
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nice nice. if i lived closer to you where ever you live i would test it for you.
  #47  
Old 12-02-2012, 10:29 PM
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if i can snag one off you for 150 ill buy as soon as you want to sell one,
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  #48  
Old 12-04-2012, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
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I think I could be testing as early as next weekend!


I am looking forward to your progress!
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  #49  
Old 12-09-2012, 10:17 PM
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Update!

Well I picked up a kart, an Italkart to be exact. Got it for $150 and that included a NIB predator 6.5 horse. The kart itself was missing quite a few pieces but I've since ordered pretty much everything I need to get it running.

The clutch is currently at a specialty shop getting friction liner applied and I am picking it up tomorrow after work. I SHOULD be up and running next weekend if everything goes right and the parts come in on time.

I posted a pic of the kart with my greasy *** in it. One of these days I will learn not to blink!
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  #50  
Old 12-18-2012, 09:27 PM
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any update since then?
  #51  
Old 12-19-2012, 07:59 AM
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any update since then?
The friction liner shop was unable to do the work, so I have ordered the material and will do it in my garage. The only reason I wanted to have it done in the shop was because they have industrial grade liner thermosetting adhesive. I am going to try with JB weld and hope that it can handle the shear stress. The friction material is supposed to get here today or tomorrow.

The clutch is the only thing I am waiting on, the kart is ready to go.
  #52  
Old 12-19-2012, 08:16 AM
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May I ask why they were unable to do it?
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  #53  
Old 12-19-2012, 12:06 PM
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They couldn't figure out how to get the material to take the shape of the cone. I sent them a sketch and a template of the correct shape, but they cited some other issues that didn't make any sense. I figured they were really just telling methat they didn't want to deal with it. They pretty much exclusively reline brake shoes for big trucks.
  #54  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:51 PM
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isnt there some other friction liner shop near you?
  #55  
Old 12-20-2012, 06:03 AM
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JB weld will be ok until you overheat the thing, its only good till 500* f IIRC.
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  #56  
Old 12-20-2012, 06:53 AM
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what about rhino glue or areldite

i wouldnt think jb weld was really somthing to take weight or force

isnt it more like devcon, just a way to fill a hole in a frame or fix a crack
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  #57  
Old 12-20-2012, 10:56 AM
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I'm with the above guys, JB Weld fails at high temps and shear loads, you'll need something that can handle both at the same time.

Then again, since it's cone-shaped, if the friction liner isn't so brittle that it'd break apart, it might not be such a bid deal if it weren't bonded to one part or the other. Heck, if it could stay in one piece it could even float between the two clutch halves (in my theory, anyways...).
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  #58  
Old 12-20-2012, 06:45 PM
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Have u considered bolting the friction material if its thick enough? automotive clutches are riveted.
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  #59  
Old 12-20-2012, 09:44 PM
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jamayers makes a good point

its a cone shape so why cant it float
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  #60  
Old 12-21-2012, 11:22 AM
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you couldn't counter-sink some holes into the friction material, then rivet it in place? that would hold strong, but still be able to be removed and replced with a drill and a rivet gun?
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