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  #41  
Old 06-20-2011, 10:04 PM
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Wait...what?
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:48 PM
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look at your valve cover.

there isnt a tube coming out of it (breather tube)

question is where is your crank case breather? mine is in the way of the rod.... so im not sure what to do.
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Old 06-21-2011, 04:30 PM
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I honestly can't find it. Maybe it just uses the oil fill tube because of how that's not super tight, but it would usually be on top of the case.

Anyways, today I picked up this little adventure. A Toro 3HP CCR-Powerlite-e (electric start). It's a little, 3HP 2 stroke that won't start. It has spark and a brand new plug which hasn't even been fired since it's still shiny silver. The carb bowl was clean, but I washed it and soaked the carb in gas turning it over and getting all of the air out of it. Once it dries, it's going back on and then I need to whip up some 50:1 mix and test it. I might use some 40:1 from out weed wacker. I also picked up a 24cc weed wacker today as well, both were free!

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Old 06-21-2011, 07:07 PM
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Right on! I picked up a similar little beast in January- I was strongly debating using the engine for a kart project, but it worked so dang well clearing my path and starting first tug in the dead of winter- I just couldn't do it. That's what fired the Lawn Boy seacrh into high gear- The R*Tek engine in the blower is basically a piston-ported DuraForce. I was so impressed that I HAD to find one! FWIW- It's a Toro CCR 3650.

If you get it running, you should do a small kart or minibike with it. Check the PTO- on mine, it looked quite useable, and it's already horizontal!
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  #45  
Old 06-21-2011, 10:35 PM
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My only worry is that it doesn't have much compression. When I gave it a few good pulls, it felt a little easy in comparison to other engines. When I had the plug out and was testing the plug against the block for spark, it did blow air that hit my face a good distance away. I may try the electric starter with a teaspoon of 2 stroke mix in the plug hole. My only thing is that the teeth on the E-start don't seem to line up with the teeth on the flywheel. Below is the best shot I have of this. Does the starter extend somewhat and engage the flywheel?

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Old 06-21-2011, 10:45 PM
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when you hit the button theres a screw mechanism that engages the starter gear.
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:56 AM
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Great, sounds good. Well, the hardware store just called, so I'm going to go pick up my gaskets here soon!
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:14 PM
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Thought this may help if you need any more odd gaskets on future progects.

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Old 06-22-2011, 08:14 PM
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Ok, so today I got it all put back together, mounted up to some crazy wooden contraption I threw together to hold it, and got the carb and oil fill reoriented. My only problem is that it doesn't have spark. Here's some pictures of how it stands now.

I put a disconnect in the wire TS said to add a kill to so that I could kill it. I couldn't find a proper switch, so this will get it done for now.


Here it is, but disconnected.


No throttle.


WOT!!!!!


Here's the wire that went to the engine brake, which TS said to add a kill to and tie back into the block. It's stripped and then bolted against the housing which bolts directly to the block.


This is how I cut and then soldering iron-ed the oil filler to point vertically. I added some "precision bent" scrap metal to help support the oil filler and keep it in place.




It's all filled up with 20oz of oil and there's gas in the carb. I'm just wondering if I did what I was supposed to do with the engine brake wire.
  #50  
Old 06-22-2011, 10:37 PM
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exactly how did you plastic weld that filler?
  #51  
Old 06-22-2011, 10:54 PM
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There is usually tab or a place to hook a wire to the coil. You will have the plug wire coming from the coil and a wire. When this wire is grounded to the engine block - this kills the motor - stops the coil from sending spark to the plug. Some older motors the spark plug wire didnt have a rubber boot and had a thin piece of metal that was bolted to the head and made an upside L over the plug. You just pressed it down on the plug to kill the motor. As long as the magnet on the flywheel is sanded good and not rusted - the coil is a business or credit card thickness off the flywheel - the coil is not grounded buy the kill wire - and the plug wire is not in a bind and grounded - it should fire if the coil is good. I started putting my motor together the other day and all was good. It still would not fire so I checked and rechecked for a few hours. Someone said these motors had to spin atleast 100 plus RPM before the coil would fire. I had been spinning it by hand to check things before I put it all together and put the cover on. I put the cover on and used the cord to spin it and I got lots of fire
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:34 PM
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So what's you're saying is that disconnecting the red connector will give me spark?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluethunder3320 View Post
exactly how did you plastic weld that filler?
I just used a utility knife to notch out wedges and then held the gaps closed by hand and melted them shut with a hot soldering iron.
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:39 AM
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"If" that wire is running to the coil "and" the other end it grounded / touching the motor - you need to disconnect it to get a spark.
  #54  
Old 06-23-2011, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redsox985 View Post
So what's you're saying is that disconnecting the red connector will give me spark?



I just used a utility knife to notch out wedges and then held the gaps closed by hand and melted them shut with a hot soldering iron.
sweet...... thanks. and you cut the dipstick short?
  #55  
Old 06-23-2011, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redsox985 View Post
So what's you're saying is that disconnecting the red connector will give me spark?



I just used a utility knife to notch out wedges and then held the gaps closed by hand and melted them shut with a hot soldering iron.
I have welded a lot of plastic with a soldering iron before. Works like a charm.
  #56  
Old 06-23-2011, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluethunder3320 View Post
sweet...... thanks. and you cut the dipstick short?
Yep, just lopped it off with some shears so I had an oil cap.

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I have welded a lot of plastic with a soldering iron before. Works like a charm.
It really does. I've fixed an Xbox microphone my dad hit with the vacuum and also the airbox on my clone because I used to have the throttle cable hooked to the long arm and had a stopper screwed to the airbox, but I moved it to the throttle plate and had to fix those holes so it didn't suck in air below the filter.
  #57  
Old 06-23-2011, 07:24 PM
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Ok, well today I got the carb cleaned AGAIN and tried it out. I added some gas to the spark plug hole and really tugged on it. It's tougher to start with no flywheel weight really, but I got it to sputter, although I couldn't keep it going. Also, sometimes, the cord grabs really tight and gets ripped from my hand. What's causing this to happen?

  #58  
Old 06-23-2011, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
the cord grabs really tight and gets ripped from my hand. What's causing this to happen?
Lack of inertia because of missing blade and the accompanying lighter flywheel. You'll get used to it.
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  #59  
Old 06-23-2011, 08:00 PM
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russ beat me!

kinda too late, but, it would be a good idea to get the thing running in tip top shape while its on the mower before screwing with it. i'm getting a free mower with what i believe is a sheared key tomorrow!, its gong horizontal!

could you possibly rotate the recoil so its not in an annoying position?
  #60  
Old 06-23-2011, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ2251 View Post
Lack of inertia because of missing blade and the accompanying lighter flywheel. You'll get used to it.
Ok, makes sense. Thanks for that bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by r97 View Post
russ beat me!

kinda too late, but, it would be a good idea to get the thing running in tip top shape while its on the mower before screwing with it. i'm getting a free mower with what i believe is a sheared key tomorrow!, its gong horizontal!

could you possibly rotate the recoil so its not in an annoying position?
It was in great shape before I turned it lol. My friend just cut his grass with it days before. It had dried green grass underneath when I got it. I think it may be sucking air in around the carb where the intake tube meets the back of the carb. I'm not too sure though. It does run though so I'm determined! And no, I can't rotate it cause it's pop riveted on. Wait! Time to type in stream of consciousness! I could knock those rivets off, rotate, and just use 3 bolts instead. I'll add that to the to-do list!
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