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  #21  
Old 06-13-2011, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by B man View Post
yep. also how are you gonna setup throttle?
Good bye gov! It's going straight to the carb.

Here's where we stand currently. I really need an air compressor.

Open case


Plugged with JB weld.


Much cleaner! (you can see the engine brake wire here)

  #22  
Old 06-14-2011, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by sideways View Post
My Briggs Victas were all 7/8". I've had 4 of those, they had shorter shafts than most though.

I've worked in a small engines shop, pretty much everything is 7/8". Maybe it's an Australian thing.

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Hayden
yeh the victas have a shorter shaft as the bodies used to be all designed for the powertorque i think. Even with the short shaft they had to space up the engine. I think now they're actualy making the new bodies to suit 4 strokes and have made the powertorques crankshaft longer

i have two different size victa blade drivers(for 4 stroke engines) in my parts bin so even they use different diameter shafts
  #23  
Old 06-14-2011, 10:56 PM
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Well, I'm at camp right now til Saturday, so this will be idle until Sunday at the earliest.
  #24  
Old 06-14-2011, 11:00 PM
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you can't let this engine idle so long! lol
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  #25  
Old 06-15-2011, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by robbie View Post
The thing with a spring on it is an engine brake. It makes it so you can't run the engine without your hand on the handle bar. Supposedly this makes mowers safer, but what it usually means is that you can't pick up trash and sticks while mowing because you have to keep holding the stupid handle bar.

Take it off and use the cable for your wheel brakes if you can.
The handle actually controls two separate actions. 1) The engine's kill switch- releasing the handle closes the switch, grounding the coil. 2)The blade brake. Some government safety genius mandated (years ago) that the mower blade must stop spinning inside three seconds of releasing the handle (kill switch). Releasing the handle applies a brake to the flywheel bringing the engine to a stop faster.

And- I personally wouldn't use the blade brake cable to control the brakes on a kart- it's not a very thick cable, and your @ss depends on that cable not breaking. Use it for a throttle cable if it's long enough.
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  #26  
Old 06-15-2011, 08:13 PM
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i have an engine similar to that one. its all apart, i dont know what i should do with it.

it ran but smelled like it was burning.
  #27  
Old 06-15-2011, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sideways View Post
Just for future reference, pretty much all Briggs mower engines have a 7/8" PTO with a standard key way on one side and 2 woodruff key ways on the other side. It's VERY rare to find something that doesn't have that.

Good luck with the conversion mate, hopefully you'l be able to document it a bit better than me!

I've got an engine exactly the same as that that I was going to convert, it feels like its got some internal problems though. I've got to get off my arse and take it apart...

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my 6hp briggs mower has a tapered shaft. its weird. and i cant get the hub off the tapered shaft.
  #28  
Old 06-19-2011, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toystory_4wd View Post
The handle actually controls two separate actions. 1) The engine's kill switch- releasing the handle closes the switch, grounding the coil. 2)The blade brake. Some government safety genius mandated (years ago) that the mower blade must stop spinning inside three seconds of releasing the handle (kill switch). Releasing the handle applies a brake to the flywheel bringing the engine to a stop faster.

And- I personally wouldn't use the blade brake cable to control the brakes on a kart- it's not a very thick cable, and your @ss depends on that cable not breaking. Use it for a throttle cable if it's long enough.
Well, I got home yesterday and slept for 18 hours after being up for 31!

There will be some more progress today on this as I attempt to size up some dippers. Now, TS, what should I do with this brake/kill to make it run?
  #29  
Old 06-19-2011, 06:22 PM
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remove the blade brake mechanism entirely, as well as all associated hardware. Wire in a new, toggle-type kill switch that will ground that circuit when activated.
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  #30  
Old 06-19-2011, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluethunder3320 View Post
my 6hp briggs mower has a tapered shaft. its weird. and i cant get the hub off the tapered shaft.
victa twostokes are like that. best way to remove is to put one side of the sleave on an anvil and strike the other side with a hammer which should break the taper

Sometimes you gotta wack it like 20 times and sometimes realy hard

heat could work also
  #31  
Old 06-19-2011, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by toystory_4wd View Post
remove the blade brake mechanism entirely, as well as all associated hardware. Wire in a new, toggle-type kill switch that will ground that circuit when activated.
Ground it to a possibly eventual frame? I will get more work done soon, nothing happened today, but I did get new gaskets ordered Friday (the the carb, exhaust, and PTO side cover).
  #32  
Old 06-20-2011, 04:14 AM
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Yes- just like any other kill switch on any other kart. Again, change it out for a toggle-tyoe switch (not a momentary) like you have on your existing kart, so it latches in the "off" position.
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  #33  
Old 06-20-2011, 10:39 AM
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Ok, this should be easy enough to do, although, what do I hook it to so that I can start it unmounted.

(PS: I do have a toggle, not a momentary because I figured since HF put on a toggle, I should too.)
  #34  
Old 06-20-2011, 02:18 PM
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I got a dipper made up today from some scrap I had in the garage.

  #35  
Old 06-20-2011, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by redsox985 View Post
what do I hook it to so that I can start it unmounted.
I'm not quite sure I understand the question- If you mean to say that for test purposes, the switch is gonna be dangling off the wires, then you can loosen any bolt on the engine, strip 2" of insulation off the wire, wrap it around the bolt and retighten. Make sure the engine block surface where the bolt head is going to clamp the wire is bare and clean. Use washers if necessary.
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  #36  
Old 06-20-2011, 05:50 PM
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I think he means start it off a kart onthe ground toystory.

Like putting a horisontal engine onto grass and statrting it no load.

Itd be hard to do. I would turn over the mower sideways and bolt it on.
  #37  
Old 06-20-2011, 05:52 PM
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Man, I was having a rough time understanding the question- But I can't for the life of me, figure out your answer...
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  #38  
Old 06-20-2011, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by toystory_4wd View Post
Man, I was having a rough time understanding the question- But I can't for the life of me, figure out your answer...
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  #39  
Old 06-20-2011, 09:32 PM
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Sorry for being hazy on that one. I meant, "What do I do with the wires if I want to start it free standing and unmounted?". You answered it, I believe. Just wire it back to the block and it should go. I won't even install a kill to test it but just loop the wire back to somewhere on the block, once the gaskets come in that is. Fortunately, this was a mower engine, so lots of "decorative" crap bolted to it where I can just put in a meaningless screw to hold the wire.
  #40  
Old 06-20-2011, 09:55 PM
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redsox, im doing a horisontal conversion that might be done tomorrow,

and i can see how you made the dipper, and i see your engine doesnt have a breather near the valve springs, mine is in the crank case as well, but you see how it makes a big hole if i leave it out.

oil would come out it if i left it in. what will you do? make a hole in the valve spring cover?

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