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  #21  
Old 02-27-2011, 07:13 PM
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if you cant find a recoil, why not just wrap and pull from the starter cup?
  #22  
Old 02-27-2011, 07:14 PM
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i think im gonna either attemp to fix that carb. does anyone know if you can do electrolysis on a chain?
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by j.concepcion54321 View Post
does anyone know if you can do electrolysis on a chain?
Yes you can.
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:22 PM
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Search the member: landuse

He did it to his chain worked out amazing for him.
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:19 AM
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j.concepcion54321, here is the link to the thread where I tried electrolysis on my chain. It turned out really well. Better that I expected. Because I have a triplex chain, it would have cost be big bucks to buy a new one.

Let me know if you have any questions
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  #26  
Old 03-02-2011, 06:30 PM
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thanks alot landuse i do have one question though. does it have to be done with a bttery or a charger? cause i was planning on using an ac adapter that outputs like 9 or 12. will that still work?
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by j.concepcion54321 View Post
thanks alot landuse i do have one question though. does it have to be done with a bttery or a charger? cause i was planning on using an ac adapter that outputs like 9 or 12. will that still work?
I am not 100% sure, but if it can output the same as a battery charger it should be fine. This method of removing rust is really awesome. The only limiting factor is the size od the bucket you use. I use "Soda Ash" (proper washing soda) to make my electrolite solution. I just picked up a packet in the pool products section of our local store. I think you might have a product called Arm and Hammer Washing soda. Its the same thing.

Also just make sure that you hook the charger up the right way, cos if you don't your metal will be eaten away instead of being cleaned up. Here are a few more links that might give you more info.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Elec...val-aka-Magic/
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html
http://www.1bad6t.com/rust_removal.html
  #28  
Old 03-03-2011, 02:34 PM
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Update: I'm starting to work on the carburetor to see if I can get the throttle and all the butterfly arms and such to break free. If u remove the governor would I have to put a tachometer to make sure I don't go over on rpms???
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:21 PM
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As long as you keep it under load and don't gear it retardedly low, you'll be okay.
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:07 PM
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ok thanks. i found this video on youtube and it seems to be the same engine that i have. can anyone tell me how he was able to fix the carb?
  #31  
Old 03-04-2011, 06:17 PM
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Update: I took the gas tank off, removed the spark plug, and took the carb off.

i started to work on the carb and i got the throttle working, but the other lever still doesnt move. i think its the choke but im not sure. will post some pics tomorrow.

Things to come: Take off crankcase cover, clean insidde of engine, get new spark plug, finish up carb, try to start engine.

Questions: Is this engine supposed to have an airfilter because i dont see one anywhere?? I found a 12volt 1amp transformer, can i use that to do the electrolysis on the tank? can i use baking soda for the mix instead of washing soda??

More to come,
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  #32  
Old 03-04-2011, 06:37 PM
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Baking soda supposedly works, just slightly less effective. Your transformer offers only one amp, so the process will probably be slower. Be patient. And watch your polarity! Having it backwards will de-rust your electrode and eat away the part you're trying to save. Speaking of which, what part are you planning on performing the electrolytic rust removal on?

There's a chance your engine did not come with an air filter. Snowblowers quite often do not. Depends on original purpose of engine.
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  #33  
Old 03-04-2011, 07:00 PM
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does it not having an airfilter affect the performance, if it does how can i make a cheap makeshift one? i wanted to do the electolysis on the gas tank so tht i can use it again.
  #34  
Old 03-04-2011, 07:17 PM
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Okay- just wanted to make sure you weren't going to try it on the carb. Rig an air filter any way you can. Letting your engine inhale solid matter is a death warrant. Order an aftermarket air filter (high flow) and figure out an adapter.
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  #35  
Old 03-04-2011, 07:32 PM
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what can i use at home?? i have some foamy insulation stuff for boxes and some pvc pipe. will that work?

ok so i have all day tomorrow to work on the engine. WOOT!! ill see if i can get it started!! does hey toystory do you by any chance know how i could free up that choke on the carb??

thanks
  #36  
Old 03-04-2011, 07:41 PM
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Foamy insulation stuff for boxes? I don't know what you mean.

Is the choke frozen solid?
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  #37  
Old 03-04-2011, 07:53 PM
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i think what i ahev will work as a filter.

and yeah frozen solid. is that a bad thing?
  #38  
Old 03-04-2011, 08:00 PM
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Umm, yeah? Have you tried submerging the entire carb in a bath of WD40, or Fluid Film or something for a few days?

I forget the proper term for the chemical process, but when steel and aluminum are mated for too long under the wrong circumstances, it'll get ugly. Soak the wee out of it for a few days. Try applying some heat, too.
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  #39  
Old 03-04-2011, 08:04 PM
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ok ill pick up some gas and wd 40 to soak it in. does it helpto take it apart and clean everything thats rusted up with a wire brush and then put it back together?
  #40  
Old 03-04-2011, 08:06 PM
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It sounds like total disassembly is your only option. Soak the whole mess submerged in WD40 for a few days, and gently start to work the choke lever back and forth. As soon as you can, take the choke plate off and work toward removing the shaft.
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