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  #61  
Old 08-09-2009, 04:59 PM
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Well the one we got when we got home it says propane only and the inside thing where the stem i guess its called goes in its way different.
  #62  
Old 08-09-2009, 07:56 PM
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Cast Aluminum has a invisible oxidization on the surface that must be removed prior to welding. If not removed the filler will roll off like water.
  #63  
Old 08-09-2009, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr dragster Tyler View Post
Cast Aluminum has a invisible oxidization on the surface that must be removed prior to welding. If not removed the filler will roll off like water.
regular aluminium too... thats why when you are tig welding alu you must use ac polarity for the arc to break through the oxyde
  #64  
Old 08-09-2009, 08:18 PM
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lol even after i polished the hole damb thing on a bench grinder?
  #65  
Old 08-09-2009, 09:55 PM
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Well if you grinded it I'm sure the oxide is gone. Its also best to remove the oxide rather then trying to get the Tig to break threw it. Remember that the oxide melts at around 3 times the temperature of aluminum.
  #66  
Old 08-10-2009, 11:22 AM
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what i used to fix a crack in my 6.5hp clone is leak fix. worked a treat.
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  #67  
Old 08-10-2009, 11:25 AM
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well if you look on the first page its not really a "crack" its a "hole"
  #68  
Old 08-10-2009, 01:04 PM
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i know, but it still may work.
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  #69  
Old 08-10-2009, 01:08 PM
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well im going to try propane and let the torch sit under it again and leave it for like 10-15 mins then try the dura fix. if that doesnt work get my freinds mapp gas torch tip. if that doesnt work JB WELD. and if that doesnt work im gona get a new one.
  #70  
Old 08-10-2009, 01:38 PM
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I wouldnt use a propane torch and leave it there for a while. Its going to heat up the entire cover and possibly melt the crank seal. The best bet would be to heat it quicky with a MAPP gas torch.
  #71  
Old 08-10-2009, 01:41 PM
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well if i heat it up any way all the heat transfers. around the hole damb thing.
  #72  
Old 08-10-2009, 07:30 PM
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Maybe you could stack up some wet rags around the seal area. Or carefully press the seal out first and then either get a new one or try reinstalling it with some gasket sealer around the outer edge.
  #73  
Old 08-10-2009, 07:40 PM
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lol i just replaced that seal. so you know what JB WELD TIME screew the dura rods.
  #74  
Old 08-11-2009, 05:54 PM
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well i jb welded it lastnight and it works like a charm i got the engine all together exept for the valve springs. i kinda need to get a spring compressor unless someone knows how to put the retainers in.
  #75  
Old 08-12-2009, 04:41 AM
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There was a bloke on youtube that did it with a drill press if that helps.
  #76  
Old 08-13-2009, 12:11 AM
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i change the valve springs with two screwdrivers. pry them and hold the retatiner in needle nose vise grips, takes about 10 min apiece.
  #77  
Old 08-13-2009, 12:17 AM
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the drill press wont work. its not a ohv its a flat head. and screw drivers are a really big pain. these are some stiff springs. stiffer then the ones on a single clyinder engine.

tomorrow hopefully im going to run out and get a spring compressor! then i can get a coil and new plugs and get this beast purring!
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