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  #21  
Old 04-25-2019, 11:48 AM
donman77 donman77 is offline
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oh it was running awesome and nice and quietly in idle but then then once I ran the go kart with it, the issues began.
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  #22  
Old 04-25-2019, 11:52 AM
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yeah exactly...
a repair that last until the item is properly used the first time is worth NOTHING!

'sid
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  #23  
Old 04-25-2019, 02:15 PM
donman77 donman77 is offline
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Would it work to buy a new carb? I don't think a vented cap would work the carb has a slit to allow air to flow into it. The carb leaks gas. Idk it should have new componets.
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  #24  
Old 04-25-2019, 06:42 PM
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sure, but why buy a new carb when all you need
is potentially a good cleaning of the old one, maybe a readjustment of the floats?

Yes, you might need to get a new needle valve, maybe the floats...
but if you are at that point you can still always buy a new carb, no?

Non vented tanks can cause carb spillage!
(cold air in tank expanding when heated up forcing fuel into the carb...)

a vented cap will certainly solve one of the issues you are having!
(if the tank has an internal ventilation then it's certainly easier to clean that out properly)
if you simply ignore that tank ventialation issue the new carb will ALWAYS cause problems as well.


Her's a thing for you to test:
get a clean cotton cloth,
remove the tank cap and cover the inlet with the clean cloth and some rubber bands
(you do not want dirt in the tank..)
Now ride around and see if your enginestill dies?
it doesn't? see you need tank ventilation.
Chances are the carb won't even leak as much if put away
(still without cap but just cloth covered)

Now, explain again why you think tank ventilation is not needed?

and remember: tank ventilation has NOTHING to do with how much air the carb gets.

'sid
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Old 04-25-2019, 10:49 PM
donman77 donman77 is offline
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I got the engine all going I am just wondering if itís jealthy to remove the screw that you can regulate the rpm if I remove it will it still be good for my motor? Iím hoping itís good because I would like to have more speed
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  #26  
Old 04-26-2019, 02:03 AM
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the idle screw is properly set in 30secs on a warm engine..
and MUST be set when you buy a new carb for sure.

but why would you remove it?

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  #27  
Old 04-26-2019, 07:41 AM
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I believe that he is talking about the throttle limiter screw on the throttle plate, not the idle screw. I haven't had a problem with running 212 engines without the screw. Not 100% sure about the 390s. And 'sid is right, the idle screw needs to be properly set when you get a new carb. But all that you need to to for that is get the engine running, turn the screw out until the engine starts running rough and trying to stall, then turn it in until it smooths out. That's the way that I've always done it.
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  #28  
Old 04-26-2019, 07:46 AM
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the limiter screw is mostly to prevent overshooting the butterfly cam, you shall not remove it!
(once the butterfly is open it must stop the cam, or you run a risk of bending the butterfly shaft or snapping the cam off.. especially with foot actuated throttles)
the butterfly can't open more than 100% (or it'd close again) some cams are overshooting and the limiter screw can prevent that too.

So no.. removing it is not ideal at all!

'sid

PS no matter: it too remains untouched when you set the float and it's needle valve
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  #29  
Old 04-26-2019, 07:55 AM
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I didn't think that the springs connecting the throttle plate to the governor arm were that strong.
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  #30  
Old 04-26-2019, 08:23 AM
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I cleaned the cap out. The float and all that is fine after I tested it (my machanic didn't messup) after I cleaned the gas cap its been working great thanks guys.
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