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Old 04-02-2019, 07:21 AM
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Default 3D printed predator intake adapter?

I was curious what the cheapest intake adapter for a predator 212 or if someone could 3d print me one and send me it (i can pay for it)
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budget GoKart View Post
I was curious what the cheapest intake adapter for a predator 212 or if someone could 3d print me one and send me it (i can pay for it)
I do 3D Printing as a hobby... one would need either PETG or ABS to print it and it be durable. ABS is obviously much more durable than PETG but PETG is more flexible and less prone to cracking. With the vibration a small engine puts out I would honestly not recommend it as I can see it cracking. I would recommend aluminium of some sort, like they come in the stage 1 kits you can get from anywhere.

The most popular plastic hobbyist use is PLA and that will last about two seconds on an engine. It is great for indoor use but heat, plus vibration plus sun won't be good for it.

--Daniel

---------- Post added at 08:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:44 AM ----------

For example here is a design on Thingiverse however I am still not sure I would trust it unless yo find someone who can print in ABS. My 3D printer does not have an enclosure so ABS is out of the question plus ABS smells pretty bad when being melted. I have printed with PLA (which is most of my indoor stuffs) and PETG which is what I use when I will use the printed thing in the car. For example I made a cell phone holder and printed in PETG, so far it has stood up to Texas heat.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2569176

--Daniel
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:03 AM
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cool!
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Old 04-02-2019, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frostyflammable View Post
I do 3D Printing as a hobby... one would need either PETG or ABS to print it and it be durable. ABS is obviously much more durable than PETG but PETG is more flexible and less prone to cracking. With the vibration a small engine puts out I would honestly not recommend it as I can see it cracking. I would recommend aluminium of some sort, like they come in the stage 1 kits you can get from anywhere.

The most popular plastic hobbyist use is PLA and that will last about two seconds on an engine. It is great for indoor use but heat, plus vibration plus sun won't be good for it.

--Daniel

---------- Post added at 08:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:44 AM ----------

For example here is a design on Thingiverse however I am still not sure I would trust it unless yo find someone who can print in ABS. My 3D printer does not have an enclosure so ABS is out of the question plus ABS smells pretty bad when being melted. I have printed with PLA (which is most of my indoor stuffs) and PETG which is what I use when I will use the printed thing in the car. For example I made a cell phone holder and printed in PETG, so far it has stood up to Texas heat.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2569176

--Daniel
I print in ABS 99% of the time (we talked about it just the other day in the other thread )

No enclosure needed, no bad smells either!
PRINTING in ABS has nothing to do with BURNING ABS
(if done correctly that is)
it prints hotter than PLA but nowhere near any fume temperatures
No need for enclosures or to be afraid of bad smells

it can even be -at least somewhat- flexible if needed be...
(made several one piece tweezers and clamps and such)
BUT: for all I know it's not fuel proof by any means.


May I ask what you are expecting price wise?
It is cheap printing for yourself; but it takes a looong time to print the parts,
maybe a bit of preparation if you've been printing PLA not ABS originally..
some observation throughout the several hour long print
(in case it fails you do not want to waste more filament)

So frankly, I think a chinese made aluminium cast is a cheaper option really,
at least if you are willing to pay the man with the printer for his work even a bit.

for comparision.. ABS material cost for such adaptor is roughly 3-4 bucks; print time (high res) roughly 8h incl setup I'd say (w/o actually checking atm)..
So 25-30 bucks is not too unfairly priced (only charging for setup and post processing if needed)

I bet the chinese can mass produce that cheaper in aluminium

but only ten ideas alike could buy such 3d printer yourself (incl filament)

'sid
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Last edited by itsid; 04-05-2019 at 08:35 AM. Reason: shortened the reply
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Old 04-05-2019, 06:23 AM
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Jeez guys what a conversation this made my eyes hurt lol
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Old 04-05-2019, 08:26 AM
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Its ok i if you want just delete this useless thread im probably just gonna go buy a fake chinese one also i dont think my yerf dog needs more power only smoothed out a bit its sorta drives rough and is hard to start i might also add rubber bushings under the engine
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Old 04-05-2019, 08:39 AM
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Drives rough? Hard to start?
CLEAN THE CARB!
The carburetor is where about 70% of go kart engine problems are.
(Especially with the dadgum ethanol CORN the government's making us stick in our engines!
And I saw an article awhile ago that the government is working on a law legalizing E15!!!! ARGH!
I don't even know how E85 vehicles start after sitting for a FEW MINUTES!
You get the point, I hate ethanol, but I also can't afford racing gas!
And Trevor, this thread isn't useless:
What about other people that were wondering about 3D printed intake parts?
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Old 04-05-2019, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budget GoKart View Post
Its ok i if you want just delete this useless thread im probably just gonna go buy a fake chinese one also i dont think my yerf dog needs more power only smoothed out a bit its sorta drives rough and is hard to start i might also add rubber bushings under the engine
Out of context comments anyone?

hehe..
Nah that'd be mean..
I moved the conversation he's referring to out of this and into
THIS thread.

Proceed as if nothing had happened

JT good lord you are so misinformed it almosts hurts!
Yes yes, e10 is baad.. e15 worse..
BUT only if you're using old cars and engines with plastic and rubber
(seldomly cheap metal) parts that'd dissolve (or corrode) in ethanol
a very relevant point in this threads context
since that what happens with most printed plastics in 'ordinary' fuel as well...

Other than that it's fine ..
if done right that is!

race fuel?.. like alcohol dragsters ??
hmm I wonder if you hate ethanol as much in what 4 years? (oh sorry.. american ... 9 years)
But that is not a topic relevant part so let's stick with:
you hate ethanol for no other reason than some idiot said it's bad without even knowing WHY it's bad

And true.. some ethanol producing methods are bad,
and some "meant to be food" ends up as "is now is fuel"..
which I don't like either.. but it's the greedy industry,
not the ethanol that's the bad part of such storys

'sid

Coffee is good: aluminium capsules to prepare them BAAAD,
don't ban coffee ban capsules
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Old 04-05-2019, 10:09 AM
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Let me clarify:
I hate ethanol since it gums up carbs.
And by race fuel, I mean ethanol free.
Anywhoo, I'll shut up.
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Old 04-05-2019, 08:26 PM
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Well i dont know how it could be a carb problem when the engine is brand fricken new but i think it may have been the gas my grandfather put in it because it didnt run very great and now i got pump gas and it runs like a champ it pulled my buddys four wheeler home when he ran outta gas
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Old 04-05-2019, 10:16 PM
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Let me clarify:
I hate ethanol since it gums up carbs.
And by race fuel, I mean ethanol free.
Anywhoo, I'll shut up.
NOPE! it DOES NOT!
that's what I'm saying

it can cause a gummed up carb, don't get me wrong,
but that's because the gaskets are not ethanol proof,
not because ethanol is bad for the actual carb itself.
swap the gaskets and o-rings and it's all good
(rebuild the carb in the last two years.. chances are all gaskets and o-rings are now ethanol proof anyways)

It's the exact same thing as calling fuel to be bad for an engine,
because you installed a non fuel proof fuel line (and that caused the carb to gum up).

Sure old equipment might get affected by dissolved rubber ..
[ethanol fuels weren't a thing back then]
but once the owners knows he would need to take care of that first, there aren't any issues.

'sid
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Old 04-06-2019, 01:33 AM
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Sorry Alex, but you are way wrong. Taking the o rings and seal troubles out of the mix here are some problems I can attribute to e mixes which we have had in the US since the mid 70's. Because the alcohol readily mixes with water here is where the problems start. Rusting steel lines and tanks, corroded zinc and aluminum carburetors, rusted out float bowls and weird jelly like substances plugging up carbs. I worked in the automotive industry for 12 years repairing them, 13 years selling and servicing golf carts along with repairing small engines. And yes MOST of the troubles I saw were from corn gas, the rest were some pretty spectacular customer screw ups.


Denny
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Old 04-06-2019, 06:15 AM
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Maybe your fuel is different than ours *shrugs*
Yes ethanol and water mixes, true;
But that's actually a GOOD THING for most metals

The reason is: when mixed the water is almost inert, it cannot corrode away metal surfaces;
straight fuel does NOT mix with water, but water is heavier than fuel, thus you'd have a layer of water at the bottom of your tank at all times..
corroding it away collecting goo .

The problem I think you are talking about is the point
at which you got so much water in your fuel that it does no longer mix.
(E10 can bind ~1% it's weight in water... E5 ~0.5% and E15 1.5%)

Every amount of water above that limit will just seperate
at the bottom and it might take some water/alcohol mix with it
(effectively reducing the amount of ethanol in the fuel btw)
And water/alcohol mix is way more corrosive than water alone.

So if water is your problem, more ethanol in your fuel is a way to reduce the problem.
(since it can bind more water.. there will be less corrosion)
Less WATER is the ideal solution though

SO IDK.. we don't really have enough water in our fuel to drop out of solution in e10 fuel
maybe you do *shrugs*

Whatever it is, if I see countries like Brazil where by law fuel must have a minimum of 22% of Ethanol (25% is common)
And they still manage to maintain (american) cars from the fifties in a humid climate like that
and classic motorcycles and whatnot,
I doubt you could argue that ethanol in fuel will result in engine troubles!

Truth is: fuel can be incompatible with a certain vehicle or engine.. sure
But it's seldomly the ethanol causing issue it's the side effects of it
which can be counteracted.
And since you don't put gasoline in your diesel engine,
you should be aware enough to not put E15 in a 1969 all original road runner either
After a bit of makeover you can though

Aluminium for example doesn't like ethanol at all true..
it also fricking hates water (much worse than ethanol to aluminium)...
BUT it builds an oxide layer in the blink of an eye.. which then is inert..
hence you run water through your aluminium engine block all day, every day.
and your cooling liquid likely contains water AND ethanol even.

Zinc I thought was inert to ethanol as well (would need to look it up)
I though you'd need an acid to corrode Zinc *shrugs*

'sid

PS Oh one thing: I'm not buying E10 either.. all fuels in germany are essentially E5
(and have always been) I cannot get around that but
I'm not a fan of Ethanol mixed fuels in germany AT ALL! (or precisely how that ethanol is made)
but that doesn't mean the concept of ethanol is wrong..
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Old 04-06-2019, 08:01 AM
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Yeah, my engine certainly doesn't like E10.
Aluminum block.
The carb gaskets when I got them I'm pretty sure were original.
Soo, yeah.
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