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  #21  
Old 03-29-2019, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by txluke View Post
The hot water out of my faucet is well over 80į.
80 degrees Fahrenheit vs 80 degrees Celsius is a big difference
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  #22  
Old 03-29-2019, 10:41 PM
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Sarcasm needs a font!

---------- Post added at 11:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 PM ----------

I totally agree about the gas thing. It never even crossed my mind. I am going tomorrow to find a soup can the right size. I may just cut the flange off the airbox and jb weld it to the can.
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  #23  
Old 03-30-2019, 11:32 AM
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What about 3D printing one?
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  #24  
Old 03-30-2019, 12:55 PM
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I am going tomorrow to find a soup can the right size. I may just cut the flange off the airbox and jb weld it to the can.
My air filter spacer looks a bit like a soup can, but it's plastic. The last one that I think was original from the factory was NAAASSSTY! It had a dadgum HOLE in it and it was more brittle than a Mission tortilla chip! That, combined with the fact that the welch plug was missing, the filter cartridge was floating on the stud too high, with no fastener, and it was missing a gasket or two, AND the gasket that WAS there would not bend without breaking.
Soo, all those combined meant that I had the ultimate high flow intake!
ZERO filtration!
Because ALL of the air was COMPLETELY bypassing the filter.
But at the same time, I don't think it's been run that much since the filter went kaput. I know it doesn't smoke(at least when I idled it for a minute or two LOL)
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Old 03-30-2019, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Jakebleazard75@gmail.com View Post
What about 3D printing one?
if you print fuel proof material in decent quality I see no issues.

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  #26  
Old 03-30-2019, 03:55 PM
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if you print fuel proof material in decent quality I see no issues.

'sid
I print in PLA plastic(3d printing standard) and it's basically invulnerable to gas, acetone, ethanol, and many other corrosive chemicals. Also can print in PETG or PolyCarb if necessary.
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  #27  
Old 03-30-2019, 05:04 PM
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3D printed gas tank with integral mounting bracket!
I could really use one when I chop off my kart's roll over hoop.
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  #28  
Old 03-30-2019, 06:41 PM
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3D printed gas tank with integral mounting bracket!
I could really use one when I chop off my kart's roll over hoop.
3D printers aren't too good about water-tightness but it is possible to do. Wouldn't recommend it though. Now if you had 3D printed brackets to hold the PROPER gas tank...then that would work.
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  #29  
Old 03-30-2019, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tpdingo View Post
I print in PLA plastic(3d printing standard) and it's basically invulnerable to gas, acetone, ethanol, and many other corrosive chemicals. Also can print in PETG or PolyCarb if necessary.
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Originally Posted by Tpdingo View Post
3D printers aren't too good about water-tightness but it is possible to do. Wouldn't recommend it though. Now if you had 3D printed brackets to hold the PROPER gas tank...then that would work.
well ever since my darwin I print in ABS (well ~98% of the time I'd say)
PLA PET and such only make up for a fraction of my prints
Calling PLA a standard is still kindof a stretch,
even more so with all the resin curing printers and the
"infused" variants these days (wood, carbon, copper, aluminium.... you name it)
but I understand.. it's the easiest to find especially if you go for coloured filament

Anywhoo.. PLA being a lactid based polymer is affected by many solvents
(some methanes and some benzenes for all I know)
And for all I know there is a rather new printable material (APLA [advanced pla]) that specifically claims to be fuel resistant.

IDK I never threw in some failed PLA print in a cup of fuel.. buuuut I'm not too optimistic it's generally fuel resistant tbh!
(especially coloured filament is most often blended surely has pigment in)

watertight prints are actually the easy part
(single wall vase mode of course included)
measure your filament diameter every other day (idealy every few feet off the spool)
and adjust filament diameter accordingly, and if it still fails to be watertight, you need to slightly compensate variances with the extrusion parameter (102% maybe 105%...)
And it needs to be the ideal temperature as well.. (slightly too hot makes a much better bond than slightly too cold)
So every new spool will need 30~40ft of testprint to be dialed in properly (the reason I avoid swapping spools whenever I can )
[check the temp, thickness, percentage testfiles on thingiverse.. they DO HELP ALOT!]

short: I disagree in the pro and cons you list
I think watertight prints are in fact the easy part these days (not speaking of my darwin printer.. it was terrible and the software back then almost worse, I only keep it for historical reasons )
I wouldn't be too sure about PLA being fuel proof, especially not if colored.. pigments can break down leaving gaps in the otherwise proper material (hence plastic fuel tanks are often 'natural' )

HOMETEST:
So drop a few failed prints or rafts or supports (what have you)
in a clear jar of gasoline and let it sit for a few weeks
(take a daily picture at identical artificial lighting in front of a brilliant white background and observe changes in color of the fuel floaters and alike)

and unfortunately, you need to do that for every brand, every color and -as if couldn't get worse- every single BATCH of filament
to be sure (changing the pigment alone can make a previous success a future failure )

'sid

PS No, I do not have a problem printing an adaptor in black ABS
(certainly NOT fuel tight, certainly not pure[being black])
and giving it a shot.. BUT I wouldn't be surprised to find my carb clogged afterwards either (since I suspect it to fail in the long term)
as long as you know what to look out for,
you can try whatever you feel like; some failures expected
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  #30  
Old 04-01-2019, 01:51 PM
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Still haven't gone to the store yet to find a can. Here is my temporary fail pt 2. I got a 1" EMT 90 and welded it to an exhaust flange. The pipe was a little to far to one side so that nut won't turn all the way. I was going to grind the bolt holes out a little but I am all out of small grinding stones. When I go find my soup can for my intake I will get some more.
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  #31  
Old 04-03-2019, 07:37 AM
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2nd fail is successful. $6 for an exhaust.
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  #32  
Old 04-03-2019, 08:12 AM
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  #33  
Old 04-04-2019, 08:40 AM
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Put a failed print in some two stroke gas (if that matters) and left it overnight. It looks fine to me, and I think Iíll print a adapter.
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  #34  
Old 04-04-2019, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Jakebleazard75@gmail.com View Post
Put a failed print in some two stroke gas (if that matters) and left it overnight. It looks fine to me, and I think Iíll print a adapter.
Is that really two stroke fuel??? Or some weird brand of boutique pickles I've never seen before?!?!?!?
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:29 AM
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LOOL
yeah strange colour.. but I've had odd colour two stroke oil myself (I think weirdest was pink'ish)

Anyways, if you run the adaptor on a two stroke, it's a fair test,
if NOT... NOT!
Oil is a conservative substance and it protects parts from other substances

So premixed two stroke fuel is not a fair comparision
if parts have to withstand pure fuels..

Also: one day might not be enough,
and the fuel itself -being weirdly coloured -
could mask early discolouration due to dissolved pigments/plastics.

might and could.. I'm not saying it WILL dissolve or weaken,
much less HAS by now...
I'm saying I wouldn't trust the overnight testrigging

leave it a few days and then scratch the print with the dull back edge of a knife to see if the outer layer has softened or not.

Personally I'd say unmixed fuel is the better way to stresstest fuel resistance,

but to be fair:
ideally you test the fuel you actually run in that engine..
so yeah for you and the engine in question that might be fair enough of a test.
just not long and thorough enough (YET) for my taste

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  #36  
Old 04-04-2019, 01:43 PM
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I usually run Echo 2 stroke oil, which is black when its just the oil. And it usually results in that color.

They also have red, blue, and I believe they also make green 2 stroke oil.
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  #37  
Old 04-04-2019, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by J.S.@SMS View Post
I usually run Echo 2 stroke oil, which is black when its just the oil. And it usually results in that color.

They also have red, blue, and I believe they also make green 2 stroke oil.
Either way, the color of the in the bottle you posted is just plain vile looking!!!!!
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  #38  
Old 04-04-2019, 01:59 PM
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I have seen the blue stuff.
We run it in our Hitachi blower and two Echo GT-225 trimmers. (Wonderful trimmers by the way, never even had to give 'em a tune up even after several years of business use. They always start right up after being stored over the winter)
The blue stuff we have, it says on there that it's compatible with all fuel/oil ratios, when you do the package's instructions for measuring it out.
I'm kinda skeptical about this stuff, because it doesn't explain how it works.
But I have not noticed any difference when we switched our equipment to the home mixed stuff directly from the Trufuel.
I would think that a true fuel/oil mixture to the correct proportions would be better than the universal stuff, but ah well. It does save us a lot of complexity and money since we don't have to buy the premixed stuff, and we can put the same fuel in all of our 2 stroke stuff.
Anywhoo, got lost on a tangent.
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