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  #81  
Old 05-22-2017, 08:22 PM
Shambosley Shambosley is offline
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Apparently this thing was made by idiots, and if it didn't have sentimental value I wouldnt be going through this trouble I would have just tossed it but it was bought by dad(15 years ago) who passed away last year for the grandkids( my nieces and nephews) and now I have it for my son. Its fabrication after fabrication when it comes to modifying this thing. I'll take some all around pictures of it. This is what model it is though got it off the internet
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  #82  
Old 05-22-2017, 08:38 PM
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Lol. I feel the same way about most of the stuff I work on. Don't get discouraged. Prove your better than they were.
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  #83  
Old 05-22-2017, 10:26 PM
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Do yall think it would be possible to carve out my own axle keyway per say, only just need to extend the preexisting keyway out farther towards the middle of the shaft? Thanks for the words of incouragmemt @whittrashrocker
  #84  
Old 05-22-2017, 10:34 PM
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Keyways.
Easy if you have a mill.

Doable with hand tools but a little more skill is involved.
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  #85  
Old 05-22-2017, 10:38 PM
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Yeah.. no mill. I was thinking a dremel tool with patience, mybe scribing it out first then mybe making a jig idk lol
  #86  
Old 05-23-2017, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Shambosley View Post
Apparently this thing was made by idiots, and if it didn't have sentimental value I wouldnt be going through this trouble I would have just tossed it but it was bought by dad(15 years ago) who passed away last year for the grandkids( my nieces and nephews) and now I have it for my son. Its fabrication after fabrication when it comes to modifying this thing. I'll take some all around pictures of it. This is what model it is though got it off the internet
A Murray GT60401x92A then..
okay according to the partslist
https://www.lawnmowerpros.com/pdfs/m...t60401x92a.pdf

it's indeed just sold as a single piece... very strange,
ah well they go out of business for some reason, right?
might as well be a stupid move like that

Now, that kart itself is a nice one though,
And frankly it's one of the "higher quality" karts.
Personally I like the chassis layout, but that's cosmetics.

Aaanyways,
as you can see in the manual, the axle should be fully keyed.
just find the correct length:
http://azusaeng.com/product/standard-steel-stepped-end/
it's around fifty bucks at mfgsupply.com (depends on length)

So in case you mess up, you know where to find a new one.

'sid
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  #87  
Old 05-23-2017, 08:49 AM
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It's actually a Murray Hard Drive, took me forever to find that model name. Yes I will try to make my own keyway and as you said if at worst I messs it up, ill know where to get a new one, thanks Sid
  #88  
Old 05-23-2017, 10:47 AM
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It's actually a Murray Hard Drive, took me forever to find that model name. Yes I will try to make my own keyway and as you said if at worst I messs it up, ill know where to get a new one, thanks Sid
*cough* the nicknamed Murray Hard Drive has the model number GT60401x92A
hence the "Hard Drive" decals you find in the pdf I linked

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Old 05-23-2017, 11:08 AM
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Yes your 100% correct
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Old 05-23-2017, 08:22 PM
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While we're discussing all the mishaps and problems with this go kart and While I'm waiting on my shaft and parts, you think there would be anyway to use a different steering spindle than the one that's on my kart stock. Ofc my kart is discontinued so I cant by a relplacmemt part and mine are all bent to crapthe spindle bracket could be made at a shop but the front axle bolt runs through the spindle bracket and is welded on from the inside... Just another issue to bring amongst the go kart gods
  #91  
Old 05-23-2017, 09:13 PM
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I see no issue.. another hole and a small weld bead ... no problem

DIY or have it done by someone else if you do not have a welder (or cannot weld)
Just take a grade 10 bolt the same size you have (threaded length should be similar as well!)

IMHO the bending is the more difficult part, considering it needs to be precise, and the material is rather sturdy.

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  #92  
Old 05-23-2017, 09:14 PM
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Anything is doable.

Can you weld? Some steel, acetylene torches and a welder and you can make just about any frame related parts.
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Old 05-23-2017, 11:57 PM
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I can weld but don't have a welder, and sadly enough I work in a fabrication shop and my main position is running a brake press, just knowing the angles like you said, mine are quite bent to use as reference and once you weld the bolt on it's nearly, if not impossible, to re break the spindle bracket with the bolt already attached. Ill figure something out
  #94  
Old 05-27-2017, 12:29 AM
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So I ran into yet another minor setback an am in need of some more knowledgeable guidance. I must say I kinda forsaw this problem arising... The shaft that comes with the TC, has a Mybe 11/16-3/4 drop down to 5/8 shaft therefore the TC bearings would have to be that 11/16-3/4 I.D. The extended shaft I got is only 5/8 the whole way. So my question is, would it be possible to put 5/8 bearings with the right O.D. in the TC??
  #95  
Old 07-02-2017, 10:24 AM
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Update: Well I thought I had it all done, but I got lazy towards the end and didn't bolt the pillow block to the frame just figured pressure from the shaft would be enough. The pillow block slipped off the frame from vibrationand and all the pressure went straight to the TC mounting plate and snapped it lol. Plus I didnt listen and only used one pillow block, as putting Another one on was going to be extremely difficult. Moral of the story, lesson learnex the hard way when it could/ should have been easily avoided by following instructions to the T from those who know what they are talking about.
  #96  
Old 07-02-2017, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shambosley View Post
Update: Well I thought I had it all done, but I got lazy towards the end and didn't bolt the pillow block to the frame just figured pressure from the shaft would be enough. The pillow block slipped off the frame from vibrationand and all the pressure went straight to the TC mounting plate and snapped it lol. Plus I didnt listen and only used one pillow block, as putting Another one on was going to be extremely difficult. Moral of the story, lesson learnex the hard way when it could/ should have been easily avoided by following instructions to the T from those who know what they are talking about.
Kudos !

it takes some serious balls to admit that, after I gave you the
"two pillow blocks" speech a while ago.

I hope no one got hurt in the process or anything more important broke.

if you need any help, let us know.

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  #97  
Old 07-02-2017, 08:13 PM
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Oh man. I thought I was pushing it using only two pillow block bearings on my jackshaft. It could probably use three.
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  #98  
Old 10-04-2017, 10:37 PM
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So it's been a while eh, got into modifying my kids power wheel since he won't be driving the go kart for some time now(he's 2). Anyways, I got my reverse sprocket setup working, still using the 725 which you believe to be a symmetrical belt but one,side is for sure flat and the other angled. I wish that was my problem. But I think my belt slips under load and wondering if its my gearing. I know its a bit high(5.4:1) with 16 in. Rear tired. Both pullys are clean and new(3 hrs tops new). Would that gearing cause belt slippage under load. It doesn't slip if I start accelerating slowy. First I thought it was the chain slipping becuase the motor kind of drops under load, which I'm still not sure how, but that would put slack in the chain.
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