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  #41  
Old 08-07-2010, 11:00 PM
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Hi all I'm new here so you will understand when I say HOLY CRAP YOU GUYS your stuff is like art way to much work...........for me, not that I'm lazy I know how necessity is the mother of invention.......nice stuff,
BTW I still have the first minibike I made I still ride it .......it's UGLY AS ****, I made it when I was 13 or 14 I think.......
RR
  #42  
Old 02-25-2011, 07:15 AM
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welcome to the forum,

this thread is over a year old. read the date at the top and if its more than 3 months old that means the people who were posting probably dont even log on anymore.

put a post in the "introductions" section

Last edited by Doc Sprocket; 09-26-2011 at 03:56 AM.
  #43  
Old 02-25-2011, 04:38 PM
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If you welded the go kart frame why not weld th spindles?
  #44  
Old 02-25-2011, 08:00 PM
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some people buy fully assembled gokarts but the spindels wear out or brake
so if have no fabrication tools then this is great

also if u are slack or short of money this idea works as well
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  #45  
Old 02-25-2011, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluethunder3320 View Post
welcome to the forum,

this thread is over a year old. read the date at the top and if its more than 3 months old that means the people who were posting probably dont even log on anymore.

put a post in the "introductions" section
It's a sticky, people can comment on it whenever they like. Besides, he contributed something to this thread.
  #46  
Old 03-27-2011, 08:11 AM
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Awesome thread!
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  #47  
Old 10-09-2011, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve lord View Post
Hi Guys,

These are not original ideas, but rather gathered from different sources (books, friends, etc.). So . . .


These spindles were made by using items bought from most hardware stores.

I can't weld . . . so that was out of the question . . . although, yes, I had someone weld the spindle brackets (made of angle iron) together and then to the kart.

The T-Pipe is 1/2 inch . . . and has pipe nipples that we cut and then screwed into each of the vertical sides to take up the small space that would have been between the T-Pipe and brackets.

The axles were cut from 3/4 inch threaded rod and screwed into the T-pipe. They are "locked" in place by the 3/4 inch hex nut.

I didn't have a large enough drill bit to accept the 3/4 inch axles . . . so I "notched" the angle iron to accept the axles. 3/4 inch hex nuts with a large washer hold it together just fine.

The eye-bolt is fastened to the threaded tie rod by a coupling nut . . . and locked together with a single hex nut. Bending the tie rod at the opposite end enables you to connect to the angle iron spindle.

There is a handy liquid locking chemical called "Loctite" that will lock your threaded rods in place if you choose . . . although I didn't use Loctite for my project.


Hope this helps . . . let me know if there are any questions. Glad to hear from you!

Steve
it might rattle lose use locktite
  #48  
Old 11-26-2011, 11:10 AM
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Those spindles are very cool, a great no-weld option I'm so glad I found this site.
  #49  
Old 07-29-2012, 05:42 PM
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Used your idea works great since there's a very limited supply of parts out here. THANKS!
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:55 PM
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not bad, i'd personally use schedule 80 pipe and fittings to make sure that weight and speed aren't an issue. red loctite on anything you don't want to move/adjust and you're golden.
  #51  
Old 11-10-2012, 12:56 PM
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also, you could go fancy and get the fittings in schedule 80 stainless steel to prevent rust, or just coat the finished product with "zinc it" to prevent rust on the bare steel.
  #52  
Old 04-16-2014, 10:54 AM
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How long is ur frame from front to back?
  #53  
Old 04-16-2014, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balls View Post
How long is ur frame from front to back?
This thread is 2 years old!! The poster is no longer here
  #54  
Old 11-12-2014, 01:13 PM
ReklessMinds ReklessMinds is offline
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cool thanks for posting this
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