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  #21  
Old 01-02-2020, 06:08 AM
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The roll cage on a Murray Explorer is not a suitable crash cage by any means and I wouldn't trust it for anything more than aesthetics or perhaps keeping branches from whacking the driver in the face at best. The security of the cage fails at the poor mounting design and poor design in general. Better than nothing... but I don't trust it.
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  #22  
Old 01-03-2020, 12:51 PM
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I appreciate the feedback guys. So what I will do for her, is get the 6.5 and let her run it, and see how it performs, and if I need to I go from there. I am new to all of this so I dont want to make a decision, that could have terrible consequences. We have 600 acres of farmland for her to tear it up on, I just to make sure she has enough power to have fun, but not so much to get her seriously hurt. Once this project is done, I am going to start looking for a big frame that would be suitable for off road type driving, and go nuts on its engine. (dad needs toys too)
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  #23  
Old 01-05-2020, 03:44 PM
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OK folks, so I did a fitting of all the parts and everything fits well. I am in the process of redoing the breaks, and the pads on this are missing, and I cant seem to find a reference for what size brakes it takes.
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  #24  
Old 01-05-2020, 05:34 PM
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If you have time tomorrow, I'd give GoPowerSports a call and they might be able to give you options for brake pads for it.
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  #25  
Old 01-07-2020, 06:11 PM
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I own two Explorers and they both have Hemi 212s now, one of them is a stage 1 and one is stock. They both have tachometers and still have the governor for now. I set them both to 4,000 rpm at full throttle. I also have a idle video and a vid of me driving one of them.

My caged Murray is stock but it has bald/flat tires, worn out keyway on the axle and no seat.

My uncaged Murray has a Stage 1 kit without the header(can't afford it yet), 18lb valve springs, new tires and a $20 lap belt from Amazon. Soon it'll be a stage 2 with better pushrods, Mod2 cam, billet rod and flywheel. I only want to open the motor once lol.

They both can do 35mph at 4k rpm in stock form but it takes it a while to get me there on our property which is on a hill. I'm only about 5'7" and 120lbs

Edit: GoPowerSports has the brake pucks you need, but I had to buy their adjustable manual caliper for my caged kart since it didnt stop at all. It was so worth $35 for the caliper! It comes with new pads as well. I can lock the tires up at any time now. Its much better than the stock comet caliper that they come with. I also go rid of the big spring and ran solid linkage to the brake caliper and have better feel when braking
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  #26  
Old 01-08-2020, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilson_Engine_Shop View Post
I own two Explorers and they both have Hemi 212s now, one of them is a stage 1 and one is stock. They both have tachometers and still have the governor for now. I set them both to 4,000 rpm at full throttle. I also have a idle video and a vid of me driving one of them.

My caged Murray is stock but it has bald/flat tires, worn out keyway on the axle and no seat.

My uncaged Murray has a Stage 1 kit without the header(can't afford it yet), 18lb valve springs, new tires and a $20 lap belt from Amazon. Soon it'll be a stage 2 with better pushrods, Mod2 cam, billet rod and flywheel. I only want to open the motor once lol.

They both can do 35mph at 4k rpm in stock form but it takes it a while to get me there on our property which is on a hill. I'm only about 5'7" and 120lbs

Edit: GoPowerSports has the brake pucks you need, but I had to buy their adjustable manual caliper for my caged kart since it didnt stop at all. It was so worth $35 for the caliper! It comes with new pads as well. I can lock the tires up at any time now. Its much better than the stock comet caliper that they come with. I also go rid of the big spring and ran solid linkage to the brake caliper and have better feel when braking

Thanks for the info! I ended up buying the whole caliper as well.

My daughter is 5í7 around 100 lbs and from what I have been told and what I have read, she will have plenty of power.
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  #27  
Old 03-22-2020, 01:54 PM
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Hello again folks. Since I have been home more these past few weeks, I have had some free time to mess around with my daughters kart. I have two issues I canít seem to figure out.

I replaced the belt on that clutch, and according to BMI the belt I am using is the correct one, but when at idle, the clutch is eating the belt up.


Also,

I replaced the brake caliper, and it has new brakes replaced in it, and as far as I can tell I have it adjusted all the way, but they will not stop the kart.

Any suggestions?
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  #28  
Old 03-22-2020, 03:40 PM
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Might have installed it the wrong way but im not sure i only have used one tc
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  #29  
Old 03-22-2020, 04:46 PM
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Yah, belt is installed backwards.

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  #30  
Old 03-22-2020, 05:43 PM
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For the brake... Try it without the spring..
There was someone here recently who had similar problems...
Seemed to help without the spring..
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  #31  
Old 03-22-2020, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gegcorp2012 View Post
Yah, belt is installed backwards.

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Well crap! Would that really have that much effect?!
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  #32  
Old 03-22-2020, 07:16 PM
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The 30 series CVT does not use a traditional "V" belt.

Take a close look at the sides of the pulleys. There is a flat side and an angled side... same for the belt.

The 30 series has an asymmetrical design so yes, the direction matters.

Rest assured that you are not the first (nor the last) to smoke a CVT belt.

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  #33  
Old 03-22-2020, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gegcorp2012 View Post
The 30 series CVT does not use a traditional "V" belt.

Take a close look at the sides of the pulleys. There is a flat side and an angled side... same for the belt.

The 30 series has an asymmetrical design so yes, the direction matters.

Rest assured that you are not the first (nor the last) to smoke a CVT belt.

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Well live and learn... I will get another on order and not put it on incorrectly. Hopefully that will solve that issue.
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  #34  
Old 03-22-2020, 07:32 PM
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The source of your new brake caliper not working is the spring circled in red. I chose to run about 8 big zipties through the spring really tight so the spring can't move. You want you brake linkage to be as solid and tight as possible.

The only spring you want in the brake system is a return spring, i think the stock linkage design on the Explorer's is cheap and somewhat inefficient due to that spring IMO. The stock calipers work okay but adjustable is the best.

I currently have 0 problems with this setup and I can lock up my 18" tires anytime I want if I need to stop FAST!

My Murray Kilowatt is a different story since it came with an adjustable caliper, beefy return spring and an adjustable brake cable
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