Go Back   DIY Go Kart Forum > Building Plans And Advice > All Other Parts

Notices

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-04-2018, 03:58 PM
scatteredsun scatteredsun is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 107
Thanks: 37
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default Oops, only measured once. Sprocket too big

So I messed up. I got a 60T sprocket but there's too little room between the sprocket and a swingarm support bar.

I have two options as I see it.

1. I take the bearing flanges off and get them welded to the end of the arms. This should give me a good 2 inches or more. It would also improve the clearance for the engine and torque converter and make i tall fit much nicer.The problem is it messes with my brake mounting. I'll have to figure out how to get it all mounted in a different position.

2. I change the gearing. I could go to a 54t on the axle and 9t on the torque converter. I would still have a 6:1 but I would gain almost an inch clearance on the axle. The only unknown to me is if the 40 series TC can have a 9t sprocket on it. I'll do some digging and figure that one out.

Both have their benefits. 1 fixes a couple problems but introduces a new one and will be more expensive. 2 I think will be cheaper.
Attached Thumbnails
It_bigsprocket.jpg  
  #2  
Old 03-04-2018, 04:40 PM
mckutzy mckutzy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: bc, canada
Posts: 7,411
Thanks: 825
Thanked 1,777 Times in 1,467 Posts
Default

Switch to a #35 chain on both... itll be smaller...
__________________
10yr+ club..... My current ride- http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5461
The Following User Says Thank You to mckutzy For This Useful Post:
bob58o (03-04-2018)
  #3  
Old 03-04-2018, 05:19 PM
bob58o's Avatar
bob58o bob58o is offline
Sick, Tired, and in Debt
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Under the Rothschild Whip
Posts: 7,516
Thanks: 3,226
Thanked 2,247 Times in 1,740 Posts
Default

Do you have a 5/8" Jackshaft or a 3/4" Jackshaft???

Like ^^^^ said.
You can get a 3/4" bore #35 10T sprocket.
You can get a 60T #35 Rear Sprocket.
You will gain over an inch of clearance from sprocket to frame.
You will loose chain strength.

If you have a 5/8" Jackshaft you have more options.
__________________
History doesn't repeat but it rhymes Name a successful fiat currency in the last 5k years
The Following User Says Thank You to bob58o For This Useful Post:
mckutzy (03-05-2018)
  #4  
Old 03-04-2018, 07:44 PM
scatteredsun scatteredsun is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 107
Thanks: 37
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

I'm getting a 40 series TC. Looks like its a 5/8" jackshaft.

I'm leaning more towards doing a 9t and 54t. The 54t sprocket is nearly an inch narrower.

I may even bump up to 20" tires from the 18" on there now. That'll give a couple more inches of ground clearance. Are 60t mostly used for racing? There's very little ground clearance with the giant sprocket. I can see it getting caught up in mud or logs.

I may wait until after I get the TC just so I can get a more accurate picture of how much room I'll have.
  #5  
Old 03-04-2018, 10:22 PM
bob58o's Avatar
bob58o bob58o is offline
Sick, Tired, and in Debt
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Under the Rothschild Whip
Posts: 7,516
Thanks: 3,226
Thanked 2,247 Times in 1,740 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scatteredsun View Post
I'm getting a 40 series TC. Looks like its a 5/8" jackshaft.

I'm leaning more towards doing a 9t and 54t. The 54t sprocket is nearly an inch narrower.

I may even bump up to 20" tires from the 18" on there now. That'll give a couple more inches of ground clearance. Are 60t mostly used for racing? There's very little ground clearance with the giant sprocket. I can see it getting caught up in mud or logs.

I may wait until after I get the TC just so I can get a more accurate picture of how much room I'll have.
A 60T #40 sprocket is what? 9.5"? Your 18" Tires should give you over 4" ground clearance.
A 54T sprocket is about an inch smaller, but you only gain 1/2 clearance.
__________________
History doesn't repeat but it rhymes Name a successful fiat currency in the last 5k years
  #6  
Old 03-04-2018, 11:49 PM
Ebrownie's Avatar
Ebrownie Ebrownie is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Western Montana
Posts: 570
Thanks: 245
Thanked 197 Times in 141 Posts
Default

If it was me and I wanted to save money I would just cut that bar off and reweld it up forward 1/2”. But from the sounds of it you don’t have a welder?
  #7  
Old 03-05-2018, 12:01 AM
Kartorbust's Avatar
Kartorbust Kartorbust is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 2,892
Thanks: 614
Thanked 767 Times in 645 Posts
Default

I'd cut the bearings off and move them back to gain the space. You'll be pushing your gearing with 20" tires. A #35 60 tooth and a #40 60 tooth are pretty different diameter wise. Even a 72tooth is about a good inch smaller in diameter.
__________________
In the age of information, ignorance is a choice.
  #8  
Old 03-05-2018, 08:22 AM
TT540 TT540 is offline
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 345
Thanks: 11
Thanked 96 Times in 89 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebrownie View Post
If it was me and I wanted to save money I would just cut that bar off and reweld it up forward 1/2Ē. But from the sounds of it you donít have a welder?
I'm with this guy. When something gets in my way, I move it.

You could just clearance/cut away what you need to fit the chain. Then attach a 5" long square tube (1"x1") piece on top of the notched section to give it the support it once had.

This is assuming the jackshaft is toward the rear.
  #9  
Old 03-05-2018, 11:29 AM
scatteredsun scatteredsun is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 107
Thanks: 37
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Ok, all great points

No, I don't weld. Tempted to just buy one and learn on my own but I don't have a lot of time to play.

I needed to take the whole unit in to a shop to get the engine mount plate welded on. I'll have them cut the bearing flanges off and weld them on at the end. That will give me more than enough clearance and will hopefully help the TC fit better. I'll also have to figure out where/how to mount the brake caliper.

How much stronger is #41 vs #35? I'm not racing but I do plan on hauling a small trailer and i got lots of sticky mud.
  #10  
Old 03-05-2018, 12:03 PM
TT540 TT540 is offline
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 345
Thanks: 11
Thanked 96 Times in 89 Posts
Default

#41 has a tensile strength of 2,000 Lbs
#35 has a tensile of 2,100 Lbs
So not much.

I like your plan to give yourself some room for the TC and for planning on a disc brake. good luck!

If you are having someone else weld it, save yourself some time and money by grinding away and cleaning the welding areas well. As soon as you get it back, wire brush it some and paint it with a primer before it rusts. If they weld a lot, it will heat the metal and maybe ruin some of the nearby paint, so keep an eye out for that.

Oh, and invest in some C clamps or vise grips. Use them to hold your engine plate in place where you want it. The place you have doing the welding might not care about "square" and getting the engine orientation exact. Same goes for those rear carriers... don't want to have to turn left to go straight! lol.
The Following User Says Thank You to TT540 For This Useful Post:
scatteredsun (03-05-2018)
  #11  
Old 03-05-2018, 12:12 PM
mckutzy mckutzy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: bc, canada
Posts: 7,411
Thanks: 825
Thanked 1,777 Times in 1,467 Posts
Default

If you move the axle back, you'll need the brake disc/caliper setup, all the associated parts for the rear end, as the brake bracket needs to be relocated aswell... Getting all that aligned to work well is going to cost you money at a shop...

For the most part a better bet would be get #35 chain, and bolt on a motor plate with risers if needed. No welding and you can do this all yourself.
__________________
10yr+ club..... My current ride- http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5461
  #12  
Old 03-05-2018, 12:53 PM
scatteredsun scatteredsun is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 107
Thanks: 37
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Good call on clamping the plate. I was just going mark it with a marker but that's way better.

---------- Post added at 10:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:50 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by mckutzy View Post
If you move the axle back, you'll need the brake disc/caliper setup, all the associated parts for the rear end, as the brake bracket needs to be relocated aswell... Getting all that aligned to work well is going to cost you money at a shop...

For the most part a better bet would be get #35 chain, and bolt on a motor plate with risers if needed. No welding and you can do this all yourself.
hm, bolt on motor plate eh? Haven't seen those. Risers are going to be a problem. As it is, I only have 1.5" clearance between the top of the engine and the bottom of my frame.


I can see a problem if the chain has any sort of angle towards the engine. If the TC sprockets sits above or even slightly to the rear of the axle sprocket I'm golden.
  #13  
Old 03-05-2018, 02:31 PM
scatteredsun scatteredsun is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 107
Thanks: 37
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

hm, this 60t #35 manco sprocket is only 7 1/4". That should definitely be enough room even if the TC sprocket ends up in a weird spot.

---------- Post added at 12:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:23 PM ----------

crap, I'll have to get a 10t #35 sprocket for the jackshaft
  #14  
Old 03-05-2018, 07:47 PM
mckutzy mckutzy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: bc, canada
Posts: 7,411
Thanks: 825
Thanked 1,777 Times in 1,467 Posts
Default

A bolt on motor plate is something your going to make custom to fit the space available and where ever a bolt/U-bolt mounting point is adequately positioned.
3/16" would do, 1/4" thick might be better....
__________________
10yr+ club..... My current ride- http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5461
  #15  
Old 03-06-2018, 04:56 PM
scatteredsun scatteredsun is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 107
Thanks: 37
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Oh sure that makes sense. The only mount plate I saw had 90* lips on the edges. It's not going to fit anywhere in the space I currently have so a custom plate is going to have to do. I was just going to have a shop weld on a 1/4" plate where I need it and then cut the slots in.

I'm going to wait until I have the TC on before making any final decisions but I do think going to #35 chain will be the cheapest option. I even have the hub for the sprocket already.
  #16  
Old 03-21-2018, 12:16 PM
scatteredsun scatteredsun is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 107
Thanks: 37
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

So it looks like a 10T #35 sprocket isn't going to be strong enough so I'd have to bump up to a 12T and 72T. That only gives me an extra .5" clearance on the axle sprocket. (the 72T #35 is 8.75" compared to 9.75")

I'm still going to wait until I get the TC bolted on to the engine before deciding but I'm beginning to think just notching a chain path into that bar isn't a bad idea.
Closed Thread

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:51 AM.