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  #41  
Old 12-13-2012, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by builder bob View Post
i couldn't even find the button to post anything!
Like I said www.motorbicycling is EXACTLY like this forum. Just a different skin colour. I just checked again. If you can start a thread and post here, do EXACTLY the same over there

Just trying to help...
  #42  
Old 12-13-2012, 06:15 PM
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I've tried to post stuff there but i couldn't find the post button. There was a thing on one of those sites about a guy who had the same problem as me but he didn't say how he resolved it
  #43  
Old 12-22-2012, 02:18 PM
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i don't rely know what to do on the bike right now, what kind of pipe would work?
  #44  
Old 01-29-2013, 05:18 PM
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I realy need to do something on this bike! is there anything other then old steel bike frames I can use to make this bike (I want them to be thin like on regular bikes)? is the Lincoln weldpack 100 a flux core welder that can be converted to mig? i'm gonna see how much my school calculated the price of fixing their mig welder is and if it's low i'll try and buy it off them.
  #45  
Old 01-29-2013, 07:31 PM
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Bob,
Where are you in Ma? I've built a few of these . You are going to spend 3 times the money putting that bike together than if you had a complete bike. Like posted before you really should join the other forums as well. Stop.. think your project out or you will be dropping cash you don't need to. Here preventative tips for that motor to keep you busy, it will help you get the most out of it. You do need to keep the pedals in mass that is the one thing that will get you busted, oversized motors, manual clutch will be ok of you drive like an upstanding citizen....by but the pedals.. Party over! Also if you want lights a Sturmey Archer front demo hub is the way to go, there are lights that are made to work with it. Let me know if I can help in any way. If you join the other forums I go by chainmaker.

http://www.shop.crmachine.com/main.sc
Cool billet parts for that engine.


https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...ilebasic?pli=1
Pre installation tips to help that motor stay alive, they are usually sand cast and assembled with a mallet- no joke!!!
  #46  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:42 PM
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The Lincoln Weld Pak 100 is a great machine- I did a lot of time on it. It IS gas convertible using commonly available parts, IF your machine is not already equipped. The fastest way to tell- look at the back of the machine, and see if there's a brass fitting that the gas hose would connect to. If it does, the solenoid is already installed. If not, it's a 5-minute install. Then, you'll need the gas cylinder, a flowmeter/regulator, the appropriate wire, nozzle, and contact tips.
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  #47  
Old 01-30-2013, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chain View Post
Bob,
Where are you in Ma? I've built a few of these . You are going to spend 3 times the money putting that bike together than if you had a complete bike. Like posted before you really should join the other forums as well. Stop.. think your project out or you will be dropping cash you don't need to. Here preventative tips for that motor to keep you busy, it will help you get the most out of it. You do need to keep the pedals in mass that is the one thing that will get you busted, oversized motors, manual clutch will be ok of you drive like an upstanding citizen....by but the pedals.. Party over! Also if you want lights a Sturmey Archer front demo hub is the way to go, there are lights that are made to work with it. Let me know if I can help in any way. If you join the other forums I go by chainmaker.
i'm in the Amherst area. thanks for the heads up on keeping the pedals. you think it really will cost that much to build a frame? i'll try getting onto those forums again but it hasn't worked for me.
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http://www.shop.crmachine.com/main.sc
Cool billet parts for that engine.
those are awesome but they're all for 2 cycle engines
Quote:
Originally Posted by chain View Post
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...ilebasic?pli=1
Pre installation tips to help that motor stay alive, they are usually sand cast and assembled with a mallet- no joke!!!
I wish I had read that before I bough my engine, got it from one of the bad sellers mentioned in their. even if they're put together that way, I've never seen an engine that has never been used start with a light pull and be tuned perfectly! very strange
  #48  
Old 01-30-2013, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toystory_4wd View Post
The Lincoln Weld Pak 100 is a great machine- I did a lot of time on it. It IS gas convertible using commonly available parts, IF your machine is not already equipped. The fastest way to tell- look at the back of the machine, and see if there's a brass fitting that the gas hose would connect to. If it does, the solenoid is already installed. If not, it's a 5-minute install. Then, you'll need the gas cylinder, a flowmeter/regulator, the appropriate wire, nozzle, and contact tips.
I knew I should have bought one when I had the chance! i'll keep looking for one. how bout the weldpack 140 and 125? a lot more of those are for sale.
  #49  
Old 01-30-2013, 05:57 PM
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I knew I should have bought one when I had the chance! i'll keep looking for one. how bout the weldpack 140 and 125? a lot more of those are for sale.
Same answer.
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  #50  
Old 01-30-2013, 06:26 PM
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alright i'll get one as soon as I can. what kind is this one: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...6739%2d%5f%2dN is it any good?
  #51  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:46 AM
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Looks like a Lincoln mig welder to me a little one but should work. it looks like it needs gas tho unless you can just get flux wire and run it that way
  #52  
Old 01-31-2013, 04:26 PM
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ok thanks
  #53  
Old 02-04-2013, 07:07 PM
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I chopped the frame in a couple spots today, we'll see how it works out. I found the problem with the chain not fitting on to the gear on the engine; the spacing between the teath is the same as on the rear wheel but each tooth is about a 1/16 (max) to wide. I wonder if I could just take the sides down a little with a file?
  #54  
Old 02-13-2013, 08:35 PM
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i'm going to look in stores for pipe to build the frame but if I can't find what i'm looking for I probly could get it from here: http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/...LimAcc=$LimAcc it says free shipping for 6 feet of pipe which would total $18!
  #55  
Old 02-13-2013, 09:07 PM
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Im thinking your going to need tube not pipe. That is a500 pipe. .

Your looking for 1"Dia .120 wall, for this project (That will make it easier to weld)
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/...cc=%20&aident=
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  #56  
Old 02-14-2013, 05:20 PM
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what's the difference between tube and pipe? don't I want to use the same thickness tube as the rest of the bike (i'm only stretching the frame not rebuilding)?
  #57  
Old 02-14-2013, 07:37 PM
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There's two main differences:
1. tube has much thinner wall
2. tube is measured by OD, pipe is measured by ID. If you get 1" tube, no matter what wall thickness,
it's 1" OD. if you get 1" pipe with 1/4" wall (which isn't unusual) the OD is closer to 1.5"; 1/8" WT would be 1.25"
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  #58  
Old 02-15-2013, 12:02 PM
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thanks for the explination, that clears a bunch of things up! i stil think that i want to use thin tube to make the bike. i'm going to see if i can get my school to get a new welder
  #59  
Old 02-17-2013, 07:54 PM
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took 30 mininets with an angle grinder but I've finally gotten the gear that goes on the engine to fit the chane. is my engine to powerful to run through the bike's shifter if when I wanted to shift I slowed the engine?
  #60  
Old 02-24-2013, 09:46 AM
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I don't have any metal yet but I think that I could get one of the guys who works for my dad to teach me to weld. I want to get a 7 speed hub so that I can change gears
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