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Old 05-28-2018, 06:26 AM
Ddubizl Ddubizl is offline
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Default TAV2 30 series tied to FNR transmission

Has anyone ever attempted to connect a F N R transmission for go kart to a 30 series torque a verter TAV2 by using the long shaft of the trans. For the driven on the TAV. Instead of using the aluminum mounting plate supplied with the TAV2. Make a custom bracket to attach it to the rear two motor mount bolts and a second bracket for the chain adjuster supplied with the FNR (not comet) transmission. I’m currently building a kart from an old streaker kart that has been rewelded by more people than my self. So basically I had to dismantle most of it and do it right replacing what is needed. The rear section was so far gone I just cut it off completely. And made a swing arm suspension type rear end but the transmission to TAV2 is a bit tricky because there is literally nothing but what appears to be some Chinese guy mounting one with poor camera angles and only 1:45sec. Long video on YouTube. Although I think there’s a kart that comes stock with this setup using some kind of hinge mounted engine plate but still very limited details. I’m trying a flat engine mount with the classic slotted holes method vs the hinge method. It doesn’t give me much to play with on sliding the Engine back an forth but I have a chain breaker so the 1” of travel I do have will keep me away from having to use half links (with their tiny tiny cotter pins). I’m just reaching out to see if anyone has achieved this and has any suggestions for my build. Spent a whole day fabricating a bracket for the rear bolt setup and welded it all out yesterday evening I’m going to clean up my welds and mount my motor/transmission combo today. I hope lol as long as it didn’t warp to bad after welding. Cause lining up both shafts (engine out/trans in) along with torque a verter belt tension/alignment was a real pain I’m my ... and don’t want to have to revisit that chapter again. So hints or suggestions if you got any. Cause this seems to uncharted territory. And I’m trying to avoid jack shafts because it just means more money dumped into it and the less moving parts the better. And this is being mounted to a 212 predator I think I failed to mention that.
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Old 05-28-2018, 06:50 AM
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That's kind of how they're meant to be. That's why the input shaft is long enough to mount the driven pulley on, and not just long enough for a sprocket hub.

It's just a matter of getting the spacing right and buying the right belt.
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Old 05-28-2018, 08:41 AM
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My eyes hurt.
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Old 05-28-2018, 08:56 AM
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My eyes hurt.
Mine too. I read the first 2 sentences, which is basically the sum of the question.
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Old 05-28-2018, 05:46 PM
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Im not sure exactly what you're talking about, you kinda just wrote a whole bunch in a really long 1 paragraph form (which I for whatever reason have hard time reading). But I think you might be asking about something like this. Its a fnr gear box attached to the driven unit with no back plate.

Maybe itll help ya out??
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Old 05-28-2018, 07:14 PM
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Its a fnr gear box attached to the driven unit with no back plate.

Maybe itll help ya out??
It that yours? It's nice!
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Old 05-28-2018, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
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It that yours? It's nice!
It sure is. Thank you, I put a little work into it lol.
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:18 AM
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That long shaft on the FNR box input is that stock or something you made?

Denny
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
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That long shaft on the FNR box input is that stock or something you made?

Denny
I machined the new shaft. You can see the old one vs the new machined one in this thread:

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=31824
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Old 05-31-2018, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevbo22 View Post
Im not sure exactly what you're talking about, you kinda just wrote a whole bunch in a really long 1 paragraph form (which I for whatever reason have hard time reading). But I think you might be asking about something like this. Its a fnr gear box attached to the driven unit with no back plate.

Maybe itll help ya out??
Yeah I’m a machinist too. I thought about making a longer shaft too, but I liked the idea of having motor and tranny being mounted together as a solid unit. so I left it alone. Plus if I ever have to replace the transmission I won’t have to open up the new one to swap shafts. Ill just bolt it on.

After few hours of thought, measuring, and remeasuring. I had the deminsions I needed to build it. That being said,
I managed to fab up a custom bracket.

I’m using the two rear mounting hole of the engine (212 predator) to mount it and the motor to the frame as a solid unit. I got to admit I had my doubts it was even going to work, but it was successful! I will post some pictures maybe this evening if I get around to taking them. I’m so happy it worked.

Btw where did you get those rear fenders on this picture.?
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Old 06-01-2018, 01:28 AM
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Glad to hear you made a plan
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Old 06-03-2018, 04:29 AM
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Default Custom bracket

This is my custom FNR mounting bracket that mounts it to the engine and a torque converter together. Iíve already tested it and I can slide the motor back and forth a full inch and a eighth for chain adjustments.
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Old 06-03-2018, 04:47 AM
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The magic number for getting the position right was 1 3/16” for all directions if you pull your measurements from output side of the engine rear mounting hole. So it’s 1.187” from that holes surface on top to the center of the top hole on the trans. And 1.187” from center of that engine mount hole to that top trans hole as well. And finally that transmission holes face is 1.187” further back from the engines side covers face. Square up the second hole and just bolt on the second side to the transmission for fitting it together before welding it up. This should mount the transmission to the engine and put you exactly where you need it for the belt to line up on a TAV2. With very little adjustments when mounting it to a 212 predator. I use 1.25x 1.25 x 1/8” Angle iron and 3/16 x 1.50 flat bar to make this.
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