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  #21  
Old 11-18-2019, 04:27 PM
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Dang, I can't imagine why that thing would still be stuck. Keep applying PB Blaster into that key slot, and keep on with the heat and puller. That's all I can say.
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  #22  
Old 11-18-2019, 04:49 PM
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Thanks for the pics.

I'd take the engine off in order to give you more access to the pulley. Then use a block of wood (like an 6" long piece of 2x4) to place against the pulley and hammer on the wood around the circumference. Hammer it over and over again on the top and bottom of the pulley, or on either side of the shaft. The wood cushions the blow a bit (no metal on metal) and also spreads the force of the hammer. Don't be afraid to really beat on it.

I'd guess you did not put the kart on its side when using the penetrating fluid? Gravity can be your friend.

The photo says you used oil, heat and wax--maybe that's just a typo/brain fart, but you need penetrating fluid. Oil won't really work.

If all else fails and you wanna throw in the towel, just cut the thing off with a grinder & a cut-off disc.
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  #23  
Old 11-18-2019, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellion View Post
Thanks for the pics.

I'd take the engine off in order to give you more access to the pulley. Then use a block of wood (like an 6" long piece of 2x4) to place against the pulley and hammer on the wood around the circumference. Hammer it over and over again on the top and bottom of the pulley, or on either side of the shaft. The wood cushions the blow a bit (no metal on metal) and also spreads the force of the hammer. Don't be afraid to really beat on it.

I'd guess you did not put the kart on its side when using the penetrating fluid? Gravity can be your friend.

The photo says you used oil, heat and wax--maybe that's just a typo/brain fart, but you need penetrating fluid. Oil won't really work.

If all else fails and you wanna throw in the towel, just cut the thing off with a grinder & a cut-off disc.
Yep. If I cant get it off tomorrow I'm going to get the angle grinder out and have a go. Yes, I've been using penetrating fluid not oil. Thanks for the help friend. I've been pretty frustrated with this mamma jamma.
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  #24  
Old 11-18-2019, 05:06 PM
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I know this is a bit off topic but I noticed in your picture that you still have the spring setup on the brake rod like I used to have before I went to solid linkage. Make sure your brakes are adjusted so that it can lock up the tires at almost full pedal travel.

I dont want you to crash your kart like I almost did last week. I decided to fix my weak brakes right then
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  #25  
Old 11-18-2019, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Wilson_Engine_Shop View Post
I know this is a bit off topic but I noticed in your picture that you still have the spring setup on the brake rod like I used to have before I went to solid linkage. Make sure your brakes are adjusted so that it can lock up the tires at almost full pedal travel.

I dont want you to crash your kart like I almost did last week. I decided to fix my weak brakes right then
Yep, that was the first thing I did when I got it. I completely disassembled the breaks and sanded down the pads to make them flat and even again. I also adjusted them so they would lock up fairly well. The pedal doesn't always return immediately however. If you don't mind can you send me some photos of your new break set up and where you got the supplies? Did you set up a return spring?
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  #26  
Old 11-18-2019, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coverfire View Post
Yep, that was the first thing I did when I got it. I completely disassembled the breaks and sanded down the pads to make them flat and even again. I also adjusted them so they would lock up fairly well. The pedal doesn't always return immediately however. If you don't mind can you send me some photos of your new break set up and where you got the supplies? Did you set up a return spring?
I can't figure out how to include pictures in a PM.

Here is what I used on my brake rod and throttle rod setup to make them work smoothly.

This is the red grease i used for lubrication

In the 2nd and 3rd pictures, I got some flat washers, coated both sides with grease, cleaned and coated both sides of the brake rod, then reattched the rod to the the pedal. Dont tighten the bolts too much or it wont want to return easliy like the issue you're having. My bolts aren't very long so I secure them with grey RTV when they're at the perfect tightness.

You want the pedals to return quickly and easily while at the same time not having any side to side play in the pedal itself

The 4th picture is the kind of rod you SHOULD use for solid brake linkage, not my test wire! I know my wire won't last long under heavy use. To use this rod on my caliper, I will have to slightly enlarge the leverage hole on the caliper arm so I will have as little slack as possible
Attached Thumbnails
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20191118_175141.jpg   20191118_175216.jpg  

20191118_175318.jpg  
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  #27  
Old 11-18-2019, 06:51 PM
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Hey Wilson!

Looking at your newest photos, I think you could replace the copper with a section of threaded rod with two clevises on the ends.

It would still allow some fine tuning but also be rigid as heck.
Clevis (with clevis pin):

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  #28  
Old 11-18-2019, 08:46 PM
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That would work perfect for me if i can figure out the size I need! Thats just another thing I didn't know about lol
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