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Old 02-25-2020, 02:37 PM
Bgt2u Bgt2u is offline
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Default Help with controller wiring

I have a Boma 48v motor, and l am trying to hook up a no name controller to it. I am aware of the basic connections, like: Hall, throttle (turn the line), power, three speed, reverse, and motor phase. To get this controller to work do l need to connect any other wires, or can l just leave them disconnected? There is also one wire called "electric door". I believe that is for an ignition switch. Do l just put 48v power into that? Once again, any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-25-2020, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bgt2u View Post
I have a Boma 48v motor, and l am trying to hook up a no name controller to it. I am aware of the basic connections, like: Hall, throttle (turn the line), power, three speed, reverse, and motor phase. To get this controller to work do l need to connect any other wires, or can l just leave them disconnected? There is also one wire called "electric door". I believe that is for an ignition switch. Do l just put 48v power into that? Once again, any help is greatly appreciated.
Yup, just the basics are necessary
...power in (batt)
...power out (motor)
...hall (motor signal)
...throttle (throttle signal)
…& an on/off switch (to activate the system)

The "antitheft power cord" looks like it should be for the "ignition" or on/off switch

Just connect a standard on/off switch
...or a keyed switch (for lockability)
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Old 02-25-2020, 03:03 PM
Bgt2u Bgt2u is offline
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Cool...that's what l thought. Do l put power into the electric door line wire (for on/off)?
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Old 02-25-2020, 06:18 PM
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some controllers need more though..
a few require you to pick a "speed" on the limiter
And others require a NC brake switch to know when the brake failed (to disconenct on brake failure)

So, if the minimum wiring does NOT work,
connect the brake and try again, if that too fails, pick one speed setting
and repeat.

"door" sounds wrong (well everything in this drawings sounds at least weird if not wrong)
"turn the line" could be a turnkey switch no?
that might be what I would say is the main power switch.
Never seen a controller that actually had blinker... which would be the only other "turn" I could think of...

*shrugs*
jeez I almost bet it's the same internals as all the others...
maybe different code and thus some different features *shrugs*

if you cannot get it to cooperate,
please don't wildly poke around with powered wires.
measure each lead on each plug first to not cause a short and fry the internals.
(happened to a user a few years ago thanks to similarly crappy and partly missing chinglish descriptions)

rather pop the case open and post a picture of where each of these wires go.
(we'll help with that!)

'sid
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Old 02-25-2020, 07:21 PM
Shep1970 Shep1970 is offline
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The anti theft power wires is 5 volts (red) when controller is turned on/ negative (black)
I power one led power indicator light with it-that’s all it is/would normally power the sensors for an alarm or—-Anti theft wires do nothing else

The electric door lock wire is/should be for your main on/off switch( hooks to your + battery voltage
Mines hooked in to the + side of my main breaker with the main +wire on the same terminal.
That’s how mine is anyway-

So I’ve got my main breaker (battery -)
then on positive side the thin red single wire and main thick red+ on the +side of the breaker. But I also have a separate key switch that interrupts that thin red+ wire after the main breaker
So the controller is powered up but not turned on until the keyswitch is on.

Sorry I probably just confused the heck outa you, hope it all makes sense.

I’ve got my controller wiring detail sheet I’ll see if I can find it.
Looks like your set up

“Turn the line” one is your throttle
Here- some wires colors may differ (like the thin single) red or orange door lock wire
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Old 02-25-2020, 08:07 PM
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Cool, but still fishy and terribly so.

Quote:
Controller is switched on when the thin orange color single "Power switch" wire
[with a bullet type male connector] is connected to the main "+" (positive) red color thick wire.
This is the only correct way to power on/off the controller at all times
But there is just one thin orange wire, and it's not single but part of a "anti theft signal line"
also there is no male bullet connector, the only bullet connector is female and on a green wire

there's a red single wire with a ring terminal and no connector at all..
but is that close enough?... according to the text you posted certainly not.

That's typical chinese "IDGAF" about consistence or colours or terminals or anything as long as I can drop another such cheap part into the bin and get my cent of payment for it.

That connector chart you posted is also just terrible!
the phase wires are OUTputs, not inputs and certainly not powerwires at all!
once you feed power to those you might as well just buy a new controller I guess

And that inconsistent bs keeps on and on and on.

Yes, most of the time you can make some sense of a terrible description and find your way through (mostly by eliminating other options really)

but there's always a chance of it going wrong
.. and the wire that looks like the "Power Switch Wire"
on one document and labelled "electric door line" in another
is simply not the same thing albeit it looking like it is.

ICR who posted that but in one of those "what wire goes where" images some chinese posted on amazon or ebay or whatever
he clearly labelled the thick red "NEGATIVE" and the thick black "POSITIVE"
Ahh here it is:


I always cringe at stuff like that.
but I'd rather see them draw me a wiring diagram than anything in "word form"

but hey.. cheap controller.. just test and if it fails, buy new, start over

'sid
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Old 02-26-2020, 12:19 PM
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I originally asked this question, because somehow, both of my 32a controllers became unresponsive, after hooking up my lithium batpacks, (replacing the AGMs), and everything was wired the same. Shep1970 mentioned to always disconnect the red and orange wires before connecting the batteries. I was not thinking, and repeatedly left those to wires connected, and then shocked both controllers with the full battery amps. I did not know it then, but am assuming now, that this destroyed both of the controllers. I then purchased 2 cheap (supposedly 1500w) 45a, 48v controllers, and of course there are no instructions. I just don't want to destroy them, by making another uneducated mistake. Thank you everyone for your replies.
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Old 02-26-2020, 01:58 PM
Shep1970 Shep1970 is offline
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Dont connect anything/ my on/off wire is the single one all by itself
Nothing to do with any anti theft or any theft signal line- I just used the anti theft power (5v) to power a led.

Honestly sid seems to be a great guy- do what he says

My orange/red thin power wire —- It’s just one wire/the single one all by itself its color I just couldn’t Tell if yours is red “or” orange

Jeez/ now I got a headache

Good luck, anyway

Shep
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Old 02-26-2020, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bgt2u View Post
Shep1970 mentioned to always disconnect the red and orange wires before connecting the batteries. I was not thinking, and repeatedly left those to wires connected, and then shocked both controllers with the full battery amps.
Well Shep was right about that.. "power off before disconnect/conenct" thing
since yeah that might have fried your controller.

if it's like the one I have in mind, I'm fairly certain you fried the low voltage supply
(at best you only popped the Caps with the spike and 40ct per controller and a bit of soldering later they'll start again as before)

Yeah, I totally get the "don't want to make another such mistake again"
part..
Unfortunately with controllers like that you need a trustworthy
source for the translation of the original manual..
we haven't had a word for orange for millenia until we actually got the fruit to compare to (it was called either red or yellow before depending how light/saturated it was)
chinese.. who knows what dialect the poor guy spoke who fed the original into google translate.*shrugs*
It's always a giant pain...

I sincerely hope that Shep's correct on his call that the descriptiona and depiction he posted matches your controller closely enough so that everything works out as been said.

But then.. a few screws and a good look can tell for sure
and while it mostly sucks to crack open a case just to take a look..
it's a matter of maybe 20 minutes to make sure you don't make a mistake connecting it up.

it's your choice of course,
and I understand that you don't want to,
me personally .. I would've opened that up, have had my pics taken and a wiring diagram drawn while measuring to validate all wires twice just to close that thing back up days ago already

No worries..
but if you have a multimeter handy,
just quickly test each and every wire for it's voltage potential
(apart from the battery and the three phase wires of course)
just so you could reveal and prevent a fatal mishap.
like connecting a +5V line to a +48V line by accident

'sid
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Old 02-27-2020, 07:47 AM
Bgt2u Bgt2u is offline
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Thank you for the advice. I will just put a meter to one of them, when they get here. I ordered them, and l know that they have no instructions with them. At least now, l have somewhat of a "heads up". From what l can figure, all of the main connections (Hall, Throttle, Phase, etc.) are the same. All the other crap is just that...crap, (only useful for ebike stuff), and is not required to be connected to anything for my application. Also, the "electric door" wire should be the on/off ignition connection, but, to be safe l will test it with my meter to be sure.
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