framing experts please help me out

[supermanotorious]

A sequel to the wood stove post I'm getting the chimney installed and riding the struggle bus. Well really the challenge is framing the support box.

I have a "roof supported" installation. The chimney is passing through the roof where an old patio was enclosed. My joists are 24" on center and I need to make a 14"x14" framed opening. Where the patio was enclosed it was finished. So in a cross cut view we have the sheetrock ceiling, the joists and insulation, then the OSB, tar paper, shingles. There is no attic/crawl/access space at all.

How much of the sheetrock do I need to cut away to attach my framing members to the joists? Do I need to cut the entire 24" span between joists? Do I need to cut beyond that, to get to the back side of both joists to nail the framing members in place?

[kevbo22]

You'll have to cut the entire 24" span. You dont have to go past that, you can just "toenail" your framing in instead of nailing from the other side. Cut about half way into the joist so your repair patch of sheetrock has something to get screwed into, or cut straight to the joist and double up the framing on it with a 2x4 so your repair patch of sheet rock can get screwed into that 2x4.

[supermanotorious]

while I was waiting for a response I went to Home Depot, got new 2x6's, and some actual construction screws with torx heads. That w plus cutting the drywall span made it pretty easy. I still need to finish the ceiling, align the stove to the support box better, add a bracket to the chimney but I thought I'd fire it to bake off the paint residuals.

[supermanotorious]

Now I need to design a badass wall covering to protect the paint on the wall behind the stove. I’m thinking a solid sheet of steel with a steel cutout welded to the face of it

[landuse]

Originally Posted by supermanotorious

Now I need to design a badass wall covering to protect the paint on the wall behind the stove. I’m thinking a solid sheet of steel with a steel cutout welded to the face of it

Now THAT sounds cool!

I see all your garden furniture is lying on its side Strong winds?

[supermanotorious]

yes, we were hit with 2 intense thunderstorms within less than 24 hours

[ezcome-ezgo]

I would use corrugated steel, chicks dig it.

[Nosandwich]

Originally Posted by ezcome-ezgo

I would use corrugated steel, chicks dig it.

It will also transfer heat less than solid steel. I kinda came late into this, you shoulda mentioned this on chat.

[supermanotorious]

Slowly patching up the ceiling

[supermanotorious]

corrugated looks great, need to cut out a hole for the electric outlet behind the stove for the fan cord though

[supermanotorious]

more or less followed this guy's video to make the roof support brace, only 1 piece of flat metal though

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHvvfI4QA5M

I used nylon lock nuts because the triple wall chimney stays surprisingly cool on the outside

still not finished yet because I just painted the roof mounts I made from an old bed frame

[supermanotorious]

Well we just had our first official burn of the winter. Despite a couple preseason burn we're still getting a bit of "new stove" smell in the house which isn't too terrible. Our youngest approves.

I put the ceiling patch on hold because we may or may not have a leak. I need to run the hose up there and run it for a while to know for sure.

May have a leak? Well during our most recent preseason burn it started raining. As I started the fire the ceiling started dripping. The rain never let up but when the stove was burning at almost 100% the leak seemed to stop. I'm wondering if some of the fresh roof tar/adhesive was able to melt in to place from the heat of the chimney and chimney support.

[supermanotorious]

Hmmm, ran the hose for about 30 minutes and yes, there is a small leak. There is no attic space for me to trace the water line which is making this a little difficult. I do know its one side of the flashing so I guess I'll remove nails, pry it up and shoot more tar in there, I dunno what else to do.

[anickode]

Large roof penetrations can be tricky, especially when retrofitting an existing roof, where you have to get up underneath old shingles.

I really like Loctite PL S30 for roof and flashing. It's a black polyurethane adhesive sealant. A bit pricey, but well worth it.

[supermanotorious]

well I shot a whole nother tube of tar under the flashing and surrounding shingles, ran the hose for over 30 minutes and did not see a leak, I feel like I want to run it again for an hour just to be safe

[anickode]

I'd set a sprinkler up there and let it rain. If the water is getting between the pipe and the flashing boot, running water on the shingles won't show it. Just a thought.