Torque converter exploded...

[Jhawker2378]

The torque converter on our Powerhorse 212 spontaneously exploded. My 10 yr old son was driving so I don't have much to go on. When I found him, I found the parts spread out. Does that rod go in the opening like the other 3? If so, I'm not sure what I could use to pry it open, I can't even get it to slightly move. Not even side to side. I know all of the other pieces to this, just not this one.

Any help is really appreciated, thanks!

[itsid]

well fairly obvious fault I'm afraid..

the outer bell came loose (someone hasn't tightened the bolt correctly )
and the rest is physics...

Now, nothing too bad happened to the TC obsviously.

First remove the garter springs from the weight-pack (that now oval thingamabob)
make sure the garter springs both snap back straight..
they MUST NOT BE longer than 7 7/8";
if they are they're now worn out and need to be replaced..
(the color you want to order is blue in case the shop sells different ones! blue is the std spring)

Now pull apart the weights so you have two identical parts.. make sure the one guide pin is not bent.
if it is you need a new weights pack (with springs ~20 bucks)
but as long as shipping takes, just put them back together properly (thread in the guides into the corresponding holes)
reattach the garter springs if they're in working order (straight and no longer than 7 7/8")

And make sure the hooks are on opposite sides and dead center between the seams.

clean everythign up, apply a light coat of dry lube on the inside of the inside faces
of the clutch (NOT the sheaves, just where the weights ride inside the closed bell)

close everything up, use a drop of thread lock to secure the bolt and tighten it to specs.

and everything will be nice and functional again

'sid

[950speed]

Either not tightened correctly or not enough threads holding it in. This same thing happened to me because of not enough threads in the shaft. I got a longer bolt and poof, no more exploring tc

[Kentucky Boy]

That will also happen when your driven gets so dirty it fails to disengage and you slow down and it will cause the driver bolt to back out. I’ve had that happen several times.

[Jhawker2378]

This is great, thanks for all of the help! I got it apart and back together and somehow the springs were still in spec and the pin was straight. I was expecting to spend about $30 on a replacement but it looks like I should be okay. Excellent help!

[landuse]

Originally Posted by Jhawker2378

This is great, thanks for all of the help! I got it apart and back together and somehow the springs were still in spec and the pin was straight. I was expecting to spend about $30 on a replacement but it looks like I should be okay. Excellent help!

Glad you got it sorted out!

[itsid]

Glad nohing was stretched or bent and you just had to reassemble it again

'sid

[Denny]

Put some BLUE Locktite on the threads of the center bolt and it will not happen again and will come apart fairly easy for servicing.


Denny

[Jhawker2378]

Will I need a key in here? If so, do you know what size?

[itsid]

of course you'll need the key..
it's 0.25 square; exact length isn't too important ~3/4 or so will do
but they're precut to length most of the time anyways

'sid

[950speed]

No sir, Sid is incorrect. The key is built into the tc part which the sheave slides on, no need to buy or cut a new key. It has the “square” shape that goes directly on the shaft, which then the cover goes onto and will “click” into place when it is aligned. Which then that outermost washer goes over the cover and will slide Into place and align with the built in key



This video will show you how to assemble it correctly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_0qStxyMfA

[950speed]

Hopefully this will help also

[Jhawker2378]

Awesome, thanks!!

[itsid]

original comets all have cast keys.. true (well.. for all I know there's no exception)
that's true for both the rear fixed sheave as well as the clover hub for the moveable sheave.

BUT some 1" bore variants of the clone TCs come with keyways instead of cast keys.

And the washer itself (the thing that is shown in the pic we are talking about)
is keyed for a reason!
IT takes a quarterinch key to get rotationally fixed to the PTO shaft
in order to prevent it rotating against the bolt that's holding the TC together
so the bolt doesn't "undo" as easily with a resulting road disassembly...
Hence my above response.

Yeah it was worded in a very sketchy manner..
Precisely worded it'd be:
"the TC unlikely needs another key to work.. the washer itself wants one for very good reason in your case"
(should've emphasised the 'you' part in my post above )

'sid

[950speed]

Sorry about that sid, i think we helped jhawker out though

[itsid]

Nevermind..
I WAS incorrect anyways.. I think the 3/4" shaft key is 3/16" not 1/4" *headscratch*

can't measure the keyway nor the key atm (sis took my caliper to measure her dog's collar and now it's nowhere to be found )

'sid