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  #21  
Old 03-12-2019, 04:55 PM
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Yeah, they're great. Have you seen their recent video where they made a hot plate exhaust for their Tillotson on their monster truck?
They literally cooked bacon, eggs, and toast on a Tillotson!
Replace the carb?! That sounds a bit drastic! It most likely just needs a rebuild and cleaning.
Can probably save money that way.
BTW, what engine does it have? You've been hiding that from us...
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:00 PM
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The engine is acting worse today, and I found a random washer and plastic washer-looking gasket on the driveway. YIKES. May have to get a new carb and call it a day, these are a pain. The Wheels still don't want to come off. I may make a video on the engine carb problems if someone thinks they could help diagnose.
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:44 PM
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Sorry lol! It's a briggs 5.5 HP 206 intek engine. I'd say the oldest it is is early-mid 90s. It's OHV, and when I got it the exhaust valve was seized. It was easy to unstick with some mild impact. The engine seems to be in good shape, but the carb isn't. It seems like the needle seat is in bad shape, but I can't get it out to replace. Other than that, would there be anything to do other than ensuring the pilot jet, the breathers, etc. are clear? What could be causing idle problems? I'll make a video on it tomorrow if you all care to see. It's funny, the first couple days I had it the engine ran better than now...
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerFrankel View Post
Sorry lol! It's a briggs 5.5 HP 206 intek engine. I'd say the oldest it is is early-mid 90s. It's OHV, and when I got it the exhaust valve was seized. It was easy to unstick with some mild impact. The engine seems to be in good shape, but the carb isn't. It seems like the needle seat is in bad shape, but I can't get it out to replace. Other than that, would there be anything to do other than ensuring the pilot jet, the breathers, etc. are clear? What could be causing idle problems? I'll make a video on it tomorrow if you all care to see. It's funny, the first couple days I had it the engine ran better than now...
Ahhhhh those intek motors. They're one of the first motors I worked on. Easy in my opinion, they're basically an American Honda. Those would be mid-2000s. I believe Briggs was still in the flathead buisness to the very late 90s maybe early 2000s.
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  #25  
Old 03-13-2019, 04:16 AM
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Well, needle and seat are very nearly ever the problem on a carb that runs on full choke, but the tiny passages that clog are.

Basically, what you are saying is: I have a problem with my car idling, so I'm going to replace the fuel pump. A complete disassembly and boiling in lemon juice is in order, as well as a poking with a fine wire through those passages. (Or a new carb, if you have deep pockets, or they are cheap.)
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Nosandwich View Post
Well, needle and seat are very nearly ever the problem on a carb that runs on full choke, but the tiny passages that clog are.

Basically, what you are saying is: I have a problem with my car idling, so I'm going to replace the fuel pump. A complete disassembly and boiling in lemon juice is in order, as well as a poking with a fine wire through those passages. (Or a new carb, if you have deep pockets, or they are cheap.)
I'll film myself disassembling it and post it here if anyone wants to see. I've taken it apart and I made sure the pilot jet was clear, and the breather seemed clear. Problem I have is that there are soooo many variations of small engine carburetors and I lose track of how each one works specifically. This one appears to only have what I believe is a "high RPM" breather, and where a low RPM one would be is solid metal filled in. I'll post a video to help you see what I mean. I'm wondering if maybe the two parts I found on the ground have something to do with its poor functionality, although it seems relatively unlikely.

---------- Post added at 07:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:30 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tpdingo View Post
Ahhhhh those intek motors. They're one of the first motors I worked on. Easy in my opinion, they're basically an American Honda. Those would be mid-2000s. I believe Briggs was still in the flathead buisness to the very late 90s maybe early 2000s.
That's true, because I have a Briggs from 92 and it is flathead as can be. I honestly like flatheads more, just because they're insanely easy to work on. The mechanical simplicity of those is one step further. The OHVs are still pretty simple though, but I have far less experience with them. Also, you're so right about them being American Hondas lol. They look and sound almost the same if you ignore branding. Honda and Briggs are the 4 strokes I trust for basically everything, particularly pre-plastic-cam. I have 4 flathead briggs 3.5HP that I got before my go kart in hopes that I could build a powerhouse for a kart out of them, but their vertical shaft and my lack of equipment to convert them to horizontal successfully prevented this from happening. They were all found after being neglected for years, and started right up once the spark was addressed (some of them dated to early 70s and the points were bad. As I couldn't get off the flywheels because of years of weathering, rust, and a lack of tools, I just brought the electronic ignition from the 92 to all of them for testing). Anyway, I think the kart itself is probably from the 90s, and maybe someone used it through the 2000s, so it was heavily used. Good to know it at least was a good kart! The gas tank is cracked with age, and I was going to replace it, but they're at least 50 dollars online! That's insane to me, so I'm either going to rig a new one to fit there or just plastic JB weld some holes up. No way I'll pay 3x more for a tank than a carb. (The carbs are only 10-20 stock so I may replace).

P.S. I did see that cars and cameras video. It was hilarious, they went and actually ate the bacon and eggs too, after they said never to try it at the beginning. I'm surprised they're alive honestly, with them doing stuff like that and hitting 88 MPH on a go kart lol

---------- Post added at 07:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:38 AM ----------

I haven't noticed an idle screw for the fuel on this, where the little needle sticks out into the carb barrel and injects fuel when the throttle is closed. Maybe it's not on this engine or is missing. I'll check when I get home.
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nosandwich View Post
Well, needle and seat are very nearly ever the problem on a carb that runs on full choke, but the tiny passages that clog are.

Basically, what you are saying is: I have a problem with my car idling, so I'm going to replace the fuel pump. A complete disassembly and boiling in lemon juice is in order, as well as a poking with a fine wire through those passages. (Or a new carb, if you have deep pockets, or they are cheap.)
You were right! I broke it myself by putting a gasket on the bowl nut to try and solve my leak problem. This partially covered the pilot jet After removing it the engine is MUCH more stable. I also tore it down today and cleaned it up nice. Might post pics, I'm proud. It still leaks however, but I think the culprit is the gasket between the top of the bowl and bottom of the carb. I'm ordering a replacement. I also managed to get a wheel off with a chisel and pounding for minutes. The other wheel remains frozen.

I looked at the brake linkage and I can't figure out where I would go to loosen the part that holds the linkage at the end to pull some more length through. It's pretty worn so I may just buy a whole new brake assy. I lost a screw for the rocker valve cover unfortunately, but I'm sure it will turn up. By freak chance, I found a rusty old bolt that seems to fit perfect in the mean time

Speaking of which, I also need a replacement head gasket. This one is a bit torn. The oil was changed today as I saw a good bit of scoring in the cylinder walls, but nothing TOO serious. Only like 1 deep groove. Unfortunate, but not Awful.

I'll post some pictures and stuff tomorrow. I had a video on the carb, but I fixed it on film. Maybe I'll make a youtube channel to document this nonsense in hopes that someone else can get ideas from it.

Its an 06 engine BTW.

Once the idle is smoothed a bit more, the leaks are solved, and I get a new bolt for the rockers, its as good as new.

Also, curious to know if anyone knows why the intek 206 comes in 5.5 and 6.5 hp variants. What's preventing mine from cranking out an extra horse? Valve springs? Carb? Governor? If its those I'll try to rob some better parts and increase HP
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  #28  
Old 03-13-2019, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerFrankel View Post
You were right! I broke it myself by putting a gasket on the bowl nut to try and solve my leak problem. This partially covered the pilot jet After removing it the engine is MUCH more stable. I also tore it down today and cleaned it up nice. Might post pics, I'm proud. It still leaks however, but I think the culprit is the gasket between the top of the bowl and bottom of the carb. I'm ordering a replacement. I also managed to get a wheel off with a chisel and pounding for minutes. The other wheel remains frozen.

I looked at the brake linkage and I can't figure out where I would go to loosen the part that holds the linkage at the end to pull some more length through. It's pretty worn so I may just buy a whole new brake assy. I lost a screw for the rocker valve cover unfortunately, but I'm sure it will turn up. By freak chance, I found a rusty old bolt that seems to fit perfect in the mean time

Speaking of which, I also need a replacement head gasket. This one is a bit torn. The oil was changed today as I saw a good bit of scoring in the cylinder walls, but nothing TOO serious. Only like 1 deep groove. Unfortunate, but not Awful.

I'll post some pictures and stuff tomorrow. I had a video on the carb, but I fixed it on film. Maybe I'll make a youtube channel to document this nonsense in hopes that someone else can get ideas from it.

Its an 06 engine BTW.

Once the idle is smoothed a bit more, the leaks are solved, and I get a new bolt for the rockers, its as good as new.

Also, curious to know if anyone knows why the intek 206 comes in 5.5 and 6.5 hp variants. What's preventing mine from cranking out an extra horse? Valve springs? Carb? Governor? If its those I'll try to rob some better parts and increase HP
Cool, you diagnosed a problem and got it solved!

For the intek, they're likely identical motors, maybe the govenor on one revs slightly higher. Well explain this, why does the old Predator 99cc motor put out 2.5hp but the new 79cc put out 3hp. They're nearly identical motors but the smaller one puts out more. I bet its the same BS in this situation, especially because the BS is coming from Briggs & Stratton.
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  #29  
Old 03-14-2019, 10:26 PM
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Default Major Progress!

Hello again! Thanks for the info on the engines. Today, I had a breakthrough. Literally. After having a friend help me stomp on a wrench while wedging the tire up against the wall of my house after pounding on the bolt and using 1/2 a can of PB Blaster, the bolt came off! I took off the sprocket, sprocket mount, key, and drum for the brake as well. Unfortunately, they were very stuck together until I got them off and the key damaged the threads on the axle slightly. I'm hoping if I take a razor blade and fix the grooves We'll be ok. The nut was on so tight, that it was almost too hot to touch after removal. Needless to say the nuts don't go back on. Hopefully the nuts were the problem and not the axle so new ones can go on without TOO much problems, otherwise I may have to replace the axle The brake is giving me some trouble though, as I don't know how to loosen the two things the line's threaded through to remove it and whatever clamps around the brake. I think I'll replace the line and the clamp and brake pad, because they're not good... I have a video on this if anyone wants to see. I'll post, and the carburetor videos (even though that problems solved, if anyone wants to see me make a fool of myself on film :roflol) If anyone knows how I can get this old break linkage off and what to replace it with lmk. Other than that, it should be ready to go together with new tires and brakes (the chain is soaking in used 10w-30 to loosen it up, and the rear bearings may need loosening, but otherwise we're good until I have the means to redo the floor panel and straighten the front a bit )Thanks so much guys!


P,S the rims on the rear tires are 6" high, 5" wide and the hole the axle goes through is 2" thick. A replacement would ideally be 2.5 to negate the need for washers, maybe 2.25. If anyone knows where to get something this size please let me know!

Video on brakes:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_WF...ew?usp=sharing

Carburetor Stuff:

1. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cU...jVeqH-OAZN9f9P

2. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WyI...ew?usp=sharing

3. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sK...i_kUcWAVFEoqYk

4. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HHb...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 03-15-2019, 02:09 PM
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Default Brakes

it seems like the brakes are mounted to the frame simply by the brake cord passing through the band, which isn't terribly secure... when I replace it I may try and find a secondary mounting piece. The wire is held on with one of these: as far as I can tell. However, I don't know how to loosen it. If it's supposed to have a hex key at the end (I can't tell because literally every online picture is taken from the side) then it's not really on mine... maybe rusted off. Otherwise, I'm at a loss...

Edit:

I'm stupid. After blasting it clean I realized there's a little nut in there. The brakes off, and a new brake, carb gasket, brakeline, wheel set, gas tubing (possibly tank), are going to be ordered. Later on, I'll straighten the front end a bit, replace the front wheels, fix the floor panel, re-weld a crack on the engine mount tubing (feels sturdy enough for now), and replace rear axle bearings. Awesome!
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Old 03-15-2019, 03:10 PM
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https://www.gopowersports.com/one-pi...-out-of-stock/

This should be your replacement rim. A knife won't do much to clean up the threads. I would borrow a tap and die kit from someone and run the correct die over the threads to properly clean them up. If the bolt doesn't strip out when you tighten it real good, then your fine.
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Old 03-15-2019, 03:39 PM
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Thanks! They look good. Only thing is, the ones I have now have the keyway through about 3/4 of the bore, so that it stays in place when put on. If these aren't like that I can probably find some other way to do this such as a hub. Perhaps I get ones that mount to an actual hub this time, too.
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerFrankel View Post
Sorry lol! It's a briggs 5.5 HP 206 intek engine. I'd say the oldest it is is early-mid 90s. It's OHV, and when I got it the exhaust valve was seized. It was easy to unstick with some mild impact. The engine seems to be in good shape, but the carb isn't. It seems like the needle seat is in bad shape, but I can't get it out to replace. Other than that, would there be anything to do other than ensuring the pilot jet, the breathers, etc. are clear? What could be causing idle problems? I'll make a video on it tomorrow if you all care to see. It's funny, the first couple days I had it the engine ran better than now...
I was going to rebuild the carb on my briggs but this was way better.
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Old 03-16-2019, 07:38 PM
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I was going to rebuild the carb on my briggs but this was way better.
Thats what I was considering doing earlier in this project until I realized my problem was me putting things in places they weren't meant for

Today I took off all the wheels for the kart to go in search of a replacement. I looked at Northern Tool, and though they did have a bearing wheel for the front that was the same size it had the wrong bore. Online I found these that look perfect:

https://www.bmikarts.com/410350-Tire...nt_p_1508.html

It has a 3 inch distance between bearings, and my spindle is 3.5 inches long, so that's perfect.

Side note, today when I took off the wheels bearings came off of them and some stayed on the spindle until I removed them. I'm pretty sure they just broke loose from the tires with age, but I imagine they will also work as jerry-rig spacers if need be in the future

For the rear tires, I have a bit of a dilemma. I've done some research and found out what i have is a stepped rear axle:



This is why the wheels I have are partially keyed and partially not, and they stay in place when put on the axle and don't slide past a certain point. Perfect, except it seems like its pretty hard to come about wheels like this now. Unless I want the same ones again (I don't really, plastic isn't my style even if they're better). However, I found these wheels:

https://www.bmikarts.com/410350-Stud...ar_p_8358.html

Which I can keep in place with a collar:

https://www.bmikarts.com/1-14-Axle-L...r-_p_1111.html

And be good to go, I think.

Only thing is when I put these on I imagine since they aren't made for split rims part of the bore won't be touching the axle after it steps down. As long as it's not going to break anything I don't care, but if it will I was thinking about getting something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Shaft-Adapter.../dp/B00T6V3TS4

to fill in the gap. I could cut it to size and get a longer key to go all the way up until my threads.

Does this sound like it will work? I hope so! Otherwise, i supposed I can get a hub, and then it will matter less how much is touching the axle. The wheels I linked above for the rear seem like they have bolt holes a hub could attach to, so I wouldn't be wasting too much money buying them, I suppose.


For brakes, I'm going with something like this I think:

https://guide.alibaba.com/shop/go-ca...i_9566057.html


Another side note, it seems like one of the solders for the engine mount is cracked after cleaning, but it feels very sturdy so I'll leave it alone or JB weld it until I can get a cheap welder.

Thanks everyone!

P.S.

I'm going to be looking for a new bolt to go in the engine shaft to secure the clutch, a bolt for the engine mount (there's one missing), a bolt for the valve cover of my engine (one is missing, no big deal as it's sealed and no pressure is coming out of an overhead valve lol) and a bolt for the rear bearings (one is missing, again haha). Additionally, I'm going to get all new bolts for the wheels and hope they go on so I don't have to learn how to use a tap and die on old metal that will probably just fall apart.
  #35  
Old 03-16-2019, 10:02 PM
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JB weld will not work and new or old metal all taps the same.

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  #36  
Old 03-16-2019, 11:25 PM
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If it were me I'd reglue the pad to the brake band to save a few bucks but it's up to you parts wise
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Old 03-17-2019, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
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JB weld will not work and new or old metal all taps the same.

Denny
Thanks! As long as its sturdy I'm not terribly worried... I'll get to proper welding eventually. The threads are hopefully ok if not I'll figure it out thanks for the advice.

---------- Post added at 11:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:24 PM ----------

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Originally Posted by Dingocat View Post
If it were me I'd reglue the pad to the brake band to save a few bucks but it's up to you parts wise
not a bad idea.... the pad is broken into a couple pieces unfortunately, but maybe I can try for temporary at least.
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Old 03-17-2019, 02:00 AM
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Don't glue it. It will never hold up. The last thing you want is no brakes when you really need them. A new band is cheap enough.

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  #39  
Old 03-17-2019, 09:37 AM
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Don't glue it. It will never hold up. The last thing you want is no brakes when you really need them. A new band is cheap enough.

Denny
Good to know. I'll order that too.
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Old 03-28-2019, 10:25 PM
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Default Wheels Arrived!

Heyya everyone! Its been a while, thought I would update for anyone who might be interested. I got the wheels today and they fit! Only a few problems, a bit better than expected! I'm excited anyway, will post pictures soon. The wheels all fit on fine, but the collars I ordered are apparently too big, even though I was positive they were 1". Whatever, not a huge deal, I can get new ones. The wheel on the side that isn't driven by the motor has only a small keyway, so the collar can't latch on to that, but I imagine it doesn't matter too much as long as I tighten the collar well on the shaft (once I get the appropriate size).

Next we have the fact that I need to replace one of the front bolts. No biggie. Lastly, The threads on the rear right are sadly stripped and need rethreading. If I try tightening the bolt it just slips, but I can get it tight enough to be too hard to spin by hand, and I imagine that since the bolt doesn't experience rotating force from the wheel it will be fine until I can figure out how to replace the threads. If anyone knows how to do that without going to a professional, please let me know. Thanks! I kicked the tire against the bolt to see if it would pop loose and it held fine, but I'd still rather replace if possible to be safe. Don't want the bolt to fly off when I'm going around a turn.

I ordered a new brake and brakeline too. brakeline came, and is way too long. Can I just cut it to size? Do the metal endings to the tube the line sits in have to be there or can I cut the tube and wire to size?

Thanks All!
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