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  #81  
Old 09-13-2017, 10:36 PM
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Well,

After getting everything unhooked from the controller

...down loading the programming software from Kelly Controls

...wiring up a separate power supply & return (negative)



I went to attach it to the laptop

I got the wrong connecting cord


I have the RS232 converter to attach to the controller

...but, the other end is to connect to a desk top computer

...NOT a laptop


So, now I need a cord with the RS232 on one end

...& USB on the other

...so, then I can attach it to a laptop


Yes, I thought about bringing the motorcycle inside


But, I could NOT get my wife to understand
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  #82  
Old 09-14-2017, 12:01 AM
Bbqjoe Bbqjoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Functional Artist View Post
Well,

After getting everything unhooked from the controller

...down loading the programming software from Kelly Controls

...wiring up a separate power supply & return (negative)



I went to attach it to the laptop

I got the wrong connecting cord


I have the RS232 converter to attach to the controller

...but, the other end is to connect to a desk top computer

...NOT a laptop


So, now I need a cord with the RS232 on one end

...& USB on the other

...so, then I can attach it to a laptop


Yes, I thought about bringing the motorcycle inside


But, I could NOT get my wife to understand
Something something normal thinking, something.
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  #83  
Old 09-16-2017, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Bbqjoe View Post
Something something normal thinking, something.

I call it "un-co-operative"


It's NOT the dirty "Beast" that it used to be

It's like a cleaner more refined "Athlete" NOW

...NO smelly gas

...No oil to drip

...NO hot pipes


But, it's kuhl! (Not the first time she didn't go for one of my ideas)

So, I ordered the "right" cord

...& a 48V solenoid (from Kelly Controls) while I was at it

...they should be in next week
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  #84  
Old 09-21-2017, 08:56 AM
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Really great work!
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  #85  
Old 09-22-2017, 11:49 AM
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Still waiting for the "right" cord to program the speed controller

While waitin'

I was thinking

...about the state of charge meter


As of now, I use (2) alligator clips to connect the meter to the 36V bat tree pack

...(1) to the positive (+)

...& (1) to the negative (-) terminal

But, it's a pain & inconvenient to have to manually connect & disconnect it every time


So, I was thinkin'

...maybe I can use a relay to switch the 36V meter on & off with the 12V motorcycle ignition

* I am Not sure if a 12V relay can handle 36V runnin' thru it

But, were gonna find out

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  #86  
Old 09-22-2017, 12:18 PM
zogthegreat zogthegreat is offline
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I was going to go with a relay like that with a 12v switch for one of my projects when I found this key switch:

http://forum.modifiedelectricscooter...2ff55c6#p29806

(Sorry, I can't find the product id number for you). As I said in the post, I hooked it up it it worked fine, (and has been for the last 8 months). I liked the clean "factory" look that it gave the project. However, if your going to have a kid using it, make sure to keep the spares in a safe place!
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  #87  
Old 09-22-2017, 01:02 PM
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No kids will be riding El Moto

*It has a 8kw motor


I could easily add a second switch

but, I want to turn everything on &/or off with just the stock key switch


"Idiot Proof" is one of my new goals

...leave NOTHING to chance
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  #88  
Old 09-22-2017, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Functional Artist View Post
No kids will be riding El Moto

*It has a 8kw motor
LOL, yeah, I was thinking the same on my "Beast" build with it's 6kw motor. Then I caught my 12 year old daughter trying to hot wire it! That's one of the reasons I put a key switch on it.

And then shrink wrapped everything else so she would have a harder time getting around the key!
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  #89  
Old 09-25-2017, 10:32 PM
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Got our order from Kelly


The RS232 to USB convertor came with a "driver disc"

But, my lap top don't have a slot for a disc

Really!?

You gotta be kiddin' me


the heck with programming


Ima gonna upgrade 'er to 48V instead


Just gotta

...switch out the 36V solenoid with the 48V solenoid

...& reconfigure the cables to include the 4th bat tree

Attached Thumbnails
SAM_5853.jpg   SAM_5857.jpg  

SAM_5861.jpg   SAM_5912.jpg  


Last edited by Functional Artist; 09-26-2017 at 07:58 AM. Reason: add video
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  #90  
Old 09-27-2017, 10:47 AM
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I switched out the 36V solenoid with the 48V solenoid

I made up (3) new matching connector cables

...to connect the bat trees in series

The original cables I made up for El Dingo were different lengths

...they worked


but, since I have found out that the bat tree pack should be set up as a single unit


ALL

...of the connectors (terminals) should match

...of the wires or cables should be of the same material & length

This should reduce the likelihood of resistance differences that may cause problems in the bat tree pack


Then, I reconfigured the bat tree cables to include the 4th bat tree


Next, I wanted to cover up all of these open terminals on the bat trees, solenoid, cut-off switch & the controller

So, I rounded up like (20) rubber bat tree terminal covers off of old riding lawn mowers

...had to do some body work to make them work


Lets see what 48V can do

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SAM_5918.jpg   SAM_5914.jpg  

SAM_5928.jpg   SAM_5925.jpg  

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  #91  
Old 09-29-2017, 07:57 PM
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Cool!

Heh I want to put an electric motor on my atv project for reverse. Could you throw some ideas on a motor out I'm completely clueless on the electrical. I'm using a 420 predator with electric start and a winch so I'm gonna have a 12v battery on it. Or at least I guess it's 12v lol.
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  #92  
Old 10-01-2017, 10:25 PM
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I received the 48V to 12V voltage reducer I ordered for El Moto

The one I ordered is for adding lights & a car stereo to golf carts.

They come in 10A, 20A, & 30A models

I don't think the motorcycle's 12V system should draw over 10A

but, I got the 20A to be sure


I removed the rectifier (unneeded part of the gas engine battery charging system)

...to make room for the voltage reducer


I wired a fuse holder/20A fuse into the (red) 48V positive (+) input coming from the bat tree pack to the voltage reducer

...& wired the (black) 48V negative (-) to the bat tree pack


I wired the (yellow) 12V output & the 12V negative (-) to the motorcycle's electric system


Before final connection to the bike

...I checked the out put with the MMeter

...meter shows 12.2V


Tested all systems

...head lights (low & high)

...turn signals

...brake light

...even the horn

...ALL systems checked OK

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  #93  
Old 11-10-2017, 03:47 PM
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NICE!!

I want to do a motorcycle conversion some day. However, I'm currently living between to countries and where I'm a legal resident, (Quebec), the government would still consider a conversion a motorcycle. Why is this a problem, you might ask? Well... a plate for a motorcycle cost $900.00 CDN, (about $720.00 USD), a YEAR! Plus another $130.00 CDN a year on your driver license!

(Sigh), I can't wait until I move back to the US full time.....

BTW, why did you go with SLA"s instead of lithium's?
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Old 11-10-2017, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Functional Artist View Post
We need to use a jack shaft type set up

... to help route the chain around the trailing arm


So, next lets discuss

...the jack shaft


Our jack shaft consists of

...a piece of 3/4" hardened steel axle shaft with key way & retainer ring grove (will cut to size)

...(2) pillow block bearings (for 3/4" shaft)

...I gonna (try to) use the 15 tooth sprocket I already have

...~1" piece of key stock

...maybe a washer or (2)

...& a retaining ring
Do you have better pictures of how you did this? I'm planning to add a swing arm on my build and I might need to do something like this.

---------- Post added at 06:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Functional Artist View Post
While a silent bike would be kuhl, I agree it's kinda dangerous especially now with these stupid smart phones
Nah, you need an air horn that comes with a Surgeon Generals warning not to use near people with heart conditions!
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  #95  
Old 11-11-2017, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zogthegreat View Post
NICE!!

I want to do a motorcycle conversion some day. However, I'm currently living between to countries and where I'm a legal resident, (Quebec), the government would still consider a conversion a motorcycle. Why is this a problem, you might ask? Well... a plate for a motorcycle cost $900.00 CDN, (about $720.00 USD), a YEAR! Plus another $130.00 CDN a year on your driver license!

(Sigh), I can't wait until I move back to the US full time.....

BTW, why did you go with SLA"s instead of lithium's?

Thank you

It's was the additional cost mainly.

& the baby step concept


I already had

...(4) of the 12V 35AH solar batteries

...& a charger

...& a little knowledge about them


My main goal was to complete a functional conversion

...then work on performance & longevity & lightening it up

...& research/learn more about lithium's


But, yes, Lithium batteries are in the near future (maybe next summer)

I set the motorcycle up (space wise) for a 48V section of

...a Chevy Volt battery pack

...it should be a 48V 47AH battery pack weighing ~45 lbs.


* The SLA's do the job for now but,

...the (4) 12V 35AH batteries weigh ~80 lbs. -combined

...& take like 8 hrs. to fully charge (for ~a 1/2 hr. ride)



* It will be interesting to see how much the lighter/more powerful Lithium's will extend ride time & reduce the recharge time
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  #96  
Old 11-13-2017, 09:19 AM
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I forgot to ask, what type of mileage per charge are you getting?
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  #97  
Old 11-13-2017, 12:56 PM
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I forgot to ask, what type of mileage per charge are you getting?
During that 1/2 hour ride around Walmart

...I racked up like~8 or 9 miles

Not super

...but it was a really fun 1/2 hour
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Old 03-02-2018, 05:25 PM
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Quick update

I have done lots & lots more research

First, I discovered a few things that I set up kinda wrong

...the main power disconnect cannot be turned off (in an emergency) while riding the motorcycle (it's too far away)

...the speed controller on/off switch cannot be turned off (in an emergency) while riding, either (it's under the seat)



So, this spring, when I upgrade 'er to a 45V 2Kwh section of a Chevy Volt battery


I am going to mount a circuit breaker right on the battery lid, next to the positive (+) terminal


Reasoning:

This way it will be within reach of the rider (& eliminate a battery cable)



I am also going to (try) a 48V 150A circuit breaker, instead of the 500A fuse, that I am currently using


Reasoning:

Circuit breakers are resettable (if you blow a fuse, you better have a spare-with you)

...& I may be able to use it as a governor to help limit the amp draw



For the speed controller on/off switch

I am going to connect the speed controller on/off wires to a relay, that's connected where the engine spark coil wires used to connect


Reasoning:

This way I can use the "stock" motorcycle off/run/off switch (on the handle bar) to turn the speed controller on/off just like "from the factory"

...& (I have not tried it yet) but, I think, the "stock" key switch should also turn the speed controller off

...kinda like a "double safety", in case I forget


More to come
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  #99  
Old 03-07-2018, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Functional Artist View Post
Quick update

I have done lots & lots more research

First, I discovered a few things that I set up kinda wrong

...the main power disconnect cannot be turned off (in an emergency) while riding the motorcycle (it's too far away)

...the speed controller on/off switch cannot be turned off (in an emergency) while riding, either (it's under the seat)



So, this spring, when I upgrade 'er to a 45V 2Kwh section of a Chevy Volt battery


I am going to mount a circuit breaker right on the battery lid, next to the positive (+) terminal


Reasoning:

This way it will be within reach of the rider (& eliminate a battery cable)



I am also going to (try) a 48V 150A circuit breaker, instead of the 500A fuse, that I am currently using


Reasoning:

Circuit breakers are resettable (if you blow a fuse, you better have a spare-with you)

...& I may be able to use it as a governor to help limit the amp draw



For the speed controller on/off switch

I am going to connect the speed controller on/off wires to a relay, that's connected where the engine spark coil wires used to connect


Reasoning:

This way I can use the "stock" motorcycle off/run/off switch (on the handle bar) to turn the speed controller on/off just like "from the factory"

...& (I have not tried it yet) but, I think, the "stock" key switch should also turn the speed controller off

...kinda like a "double safety", in case I forget


More to come

I forgot to note some of the research, I have done to advance this project so, to kinda conglomerate things

Here is the thread where I posted a lot of the Chevy Volt (lithium) battery info
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38167

Here is the thread where I posted a lot of info on power disconnect switches
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38358

I did a lot of research on using a BMS (Battery Management System) but, then thought I could go "low tech" & just use a Batt-Bridge along with an Amp/Volt meter

Here is the thread where I posted a lot of info on Batt-Bridges (Battery Pack Balance Monitor)
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38400

&

Here is the thread where I posted a lot of info on using an Amp/Volt meter
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38583
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  #100  
Old 04-29-2018, 04:29 PM
Redneckoleptic Redneckoleptic is offline
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No, I beat everyone to it^__^
Seems your all fairly young here? I'm an old fart!
I've been at it since the early 70's!
None of this is new! electric cars were around before gas!
I always wanted to do a steam engine! Gramp's was a train engineer!
Live long and ride sweet^__^
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