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  #21  
Old 09-27-2010, 02:23 PM
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Well i really like this motor anyways it will be a good one if i can get the bolt out... I opened it up to clean all the carbon out (as you can see still need to polish) but i regret it alot. Pull start got to my house an hour ago. May be taking it to an auto hop soon to see if they can drill it out and re tap, or just heat it first and see if i can unscrew it.
  #22  
Old 09-27-2010, 03:22 PM
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ok got pics of the pull start i think i got the wrong one...................FML the 2 pieces dont connect.......
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  #23  
Old 09-27-2010, 06:36 PM
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You bought a recoil for the cup and pawl system, you need a recoil for the starter clutch. Using the cup and pawl on your motor would require modifying the crank snout.
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  #24  
Old 09-27-2010, 07:37 PM
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dam it. well i guess im just going to put building a go kart aside for right now. i have other easier 2 wheeler projects that i have everything i need to build it pretty much. its going to be winter soon anyways.
  #25  
Old 09-27-2010, 10:35 PM
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Dude, thats a real shame. Older starter cup styled recoil assemblies are far far cheaper used than any of the plastic or metal starter dogs(pawls).
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  #26  
Old 09-28-2010, 08:26 AM
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I applaud your effort, its not fun dealing with these setbacks but figuring out how to solve it is a reward in itself. Heres what I would try; First find a carbide tip drill bit slightly smaller than the bolt hole. Now, heat that area for several minutes..can use mapp gas (Find these at any automotive stores) then try to drill for several minutes and stop and reheat. Repeat this cycle and eventually you will drill out most of it. Now you need either a tap or an easy out to get the remaining bolt out. Use liquid wrench and the easy out and it should loosen up to take it out, then all you need to do is to retap new threads.

Seeing the deck and the grooves..well I suggest as others did as well try getting it milled..but it sorta looks a little deep, then you could try a little JB weld or if you have access to a welder add some metal to the groove and then have it redecked. Otherwise if don't fix this you will get alot of blowby and a substantial loss of compression which =power.

Remember it can be done if you take your time and are willing to do the work, good luck!
  #27  
Old 09-29-2010, 03:25 PM
DustinWolfe DustinWolfe is offline
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mapp gas will melt that block into a puddle. besides when you drill something out you want less heat, thats why you use drilling and tapping lube. eccesive heat will ruin the heat treating on your drill bit and ruin it in seconds.
  #28  
Old 09-29-2010, 04:02 PM
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i will try these, may not be for a while. its dry outside and the lawn is dying so i havent got any cash in a wile. ill be getting a welder soon but my parents say i cant get any gas because they are unstable and dangerous for a household, i can kinda see that because we dont even have a garage. i may be able to use my schools stuff if i ask once. ive only had 2 classes so far so it wont be for a while again. however, i think i may just need to heat up the area a bit in order to crack the rust in the threads, wrench oil wont even penetrate.
  #29  
Old 09-29-2010, 04:03 PM
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and blaz the recoil was used i got it off ebay.... 30 bucks total so i will probably sell it again if i dont come up with anything to use it on.
  #30  
Old 09-29-2010, 05:27 PM
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I would of just put some heat to that block and vice grips or plug weld a nut to the broken head bolt and that would have gotten it out.
  #31  
Old 09-29-2010, 06:06 PM
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yeah well i tried vice grips and used penetrating oil and the only thing it did was snap off even more. i dont have any kind of torch to heat it.
  #32  
Old 09-29-2010, 06:19 PM
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you guys are always gettin into trouble. You should have heated it and used the vice grips like you did. Mapp gas wont melt the block. But its still very saveable. Since you broke an ez-out off in the hole. That was too small by the way. You wont be able to drill through the broken one. I really dont ever use ez-outs they usually dont work unless the bolt is sort of loose already. Its much easier just to drill the hole as big as you can and all you have to do is run a tap down in to clear out the threads. What you can do now is heat it and use an Impact driver. Its a common tool you should be able to get pretty easily. Its just a big beefy screwdriver that you can change the tips and even use sockets on it. But you hit it with a hammer and it smacks the bolt loose or tight. With a good amount of heat you should be able to bust it loose with the slot you cut. You may have to heat cycle it a few times. Yes you can use jb weld on the cut but i realy dont think its nessesary as you didnt cut into the cylender area. If your new head gasket has a metal ring around the bore youll be fine. If all else fails just torque the head down a bit more than spec and i bet it wont leak even with the broken bolt. Its not a hoped up hi compression motor. Also if your motor is stock your flywheel is likely useable also. I have a broken fin on one of my sort of stock briggs 5hp motors that iv run for about 20 years and it hasnt blown up yet.
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  #33  
Old 09-29-2010, 06:25 PM
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well thats good news, and also it was the thin fins too. if he hit the cast iron part it most likely wouldnt have broke.

i do not own a torque wrench. i tried reusing the old gasket but i had zero compression. before i realized how big this issue is, i ordered a new had gasket, should get it soon, also ordered a new head bolt. most likely i will just drill the thing out, but i lost the charger to my dads portable drill, so i will need to either find it or fix the corded drill we got. dissapointed at the vulcan 12v drill though it barely holds a charge and i can stop the bit with my hand easily.
  #34  
Old 09-29-2010, 09:23 PM
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mapp gas burns at around 2200 degrees f aluminum melts at around 1300 degrees... and it wont melt the block?!?!? although i do agree that the head gasket should still seal. impact driver looks like this
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  #35  
Old 09-29-2010, 10:27 PM
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^^^ That's an invalid argument, copper melts at about 1900 degrees F, but MAPP torches are used to sweat copper pipe all the time.

To bluethunder, you need to pick up a torque wrench before you try to do any more engine work. Harbor Freight has them for exceedingly cheap, I even had my HF torque wrench tested by the local Snap-On guy and it was within accuracy specs.
A hand drill is going to be a PITA to drill out the head bolt. Make very sure to keep it straight, and keep your speed low. The biggest mistake I see when people go to drill steel with a hand drill is they try to max the drill out, all you're doing there is making heat and dulling the bit.
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  #36  
Old 09-30-2010, 02:20 AM
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Well, since you ordered the wrong recoil starter. I have the right one that I could send to you if you just pay shipping.
  #37  
Old 09-30-2010, 03:16 PM
DustinWolfe DustinWolfe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newrider3 View Post
^^^ That's an invalid argument, copper melts at about 1900 degrees F, but MAPP torches are used to sweat copper pipe all the time.
No thats an invalid argument. with aluminum the mapp burns almost twice as hot. with coppers melting point being 1984 degrees f its only a 200 degree difference
  #38  
Old 09-30-2010, 04:43 PM
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Sure you can melt a pop can with a MAPP plumbing style torch, But your not going to liquidize your aluminum engine block. You'd have to heat so much of the surronding area to melt the block it would be impossible with the cunductivity of aluminum.

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  #39  
Old 09-30-2010, 05:04 PM
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lol cunductany? conductivity maybe?
  #40  
Old 09-30-2010, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluethunder3320 View Post
i tried reusing the old gasket but i had zero compression. before i realized how big this issue is, i ordered a new had gasket, should get it soon, also ordered a new head bolt.
You should post a picture of the old gasket, it my be the valves that are causing the loss of compression. So check them before spending anymore money.
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