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  #21  
Old 05-17-2018, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitetrashrocker View Post
Also the fuel pump is just a vane style I believe. If your tank is higher than the pump will the gas leak through the pump and into the carb?
If wanting to run the carb dry, I will shut off the pump and shut off the valve before the carb.

No need to keep the pump working if trying to run the carb dry.
And shutting off the gas flow at the carb will keep the pump wet and primed - avoiding running the pump dry when trying to run the carb dry. I think I've read that should be avoided.

---------- Post added at 10:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitetrashrocker View Post
Simple way to do it.


What's the fuel pump rated at amperage wise?
Gotta make sure switch will handle it. If not then use a relay.
The pump is a 1 amp pump.
I don't know what the stall amperage is, but with the return line open... 1 amp is what I expect.
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  #22  
Old 05-18-2018, 07:44 AM
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Push To Start Button...
Momentary Rocker
Normally OFF - Push (ON)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-...4ed8%7Ciid%3A1

Waterproof Rocker Momentary Push On Switch 12V Motorcycle Handlebar 3/4" 7/8" 1"
The mount has a nested rubber bushing that allows you to clamp it to handlebars between 3/4", 7/8" and 1". Each switch has a rubber boot switch cover.

Double sealed UV waterproof SPST on/off black switch for extreme environments.

The switch has a full front cover bellows seal with secondary bezel seal that protects the switch from water and dust. Capable of brief immersion. Positive feel when switch toggles. Comes with rubber sealing and mounting washer for a waterproof and vibration proof mount.

Use on Motorcycles, ATV, Jet ski, snowmobile.

-Splash proof front and back.

-Waterproof Rocker Switch –Momentary SPST Normally open contacts.

-12 volt operation: Rated for 16 amps at 12 volts.

-Two wire connection black wires switch load. Normally open contacts.
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  #23  
Old 05-18-2018, 10:46 AM
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I would rather have a push button versus a toggle switch. But you are correct that It is momentary.
Also remember that this switch will not have idiot proofing. If the engine is running and you hit that button again, the starter will engage the flywheel.
  #24  
Old 05-20-2018, 10:36 AM
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Well if I'm going to have a battery and have less than impressive charging capabilities, I should probably have an idea what my voltage is.

Battery was 13.67V out of the box.
Have it hooked up to a 400mA float charger from HF.
Charger Voltage is 14.4 Volts.
Battery is now 13.83V after ~30-45 minutes on the charger.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

New Arrival Hot Sale Waterproof 0.28 DC 3.5-30V Mini LED Digital Voltmeter Volt voltage Meter F 12V Car Moto 10%Off


Since I have extra switches now, I'll put the voltmeter on the ON-OFF rocker switch I was going to use for the light.

Anybody know what the wattage is on a normal Baja style headlamp???
I assume I can replace it with a lower wattage LED light.
One of these would draw 1.5 amps.

https://www.amazon.com/Auxbeam-1800l.../dp/B00T62RK1U

1.5 amp for light, 1 amp for pump.

The 5 hr 3.06 Amp discharge capacity of a similar battery is 15.3 Ah.
Three hours of riding might use 7.5 Ah. With no charging system (and using the pull starter) I should be able to use the battery to run the lights and pump for 3 hours without discharging more than 50%.

The charging system is a 3 amp charging system. Leaves 0.5 amps to charge the 18Ah (20 hour, 0.9 amp discharge rating) battery.

0.5 charging amps / 18 =
~0.025C (20hr)
or
0.5 charging amps / 15.3 =
~0.033C (5hr)

Charging system should run light and pump and also slow charge the battery to recover from using the electric start.

These are specs for a UB12180
https://www.sunwize.com/wp-content/u...et-1-D5745.pdf

---------- Post added at 11:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:50 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by TT540 View Post
I would rather have a push button versus a toggle switch. But you are correct that It is momentary.
Also remember that this switch will not have idiot proofing. If the engine is running and you hit that button again, the starter will engage the flywheel.
When I learned to drive, cars were not idiot proof either.
I haven't tried to start my current car while running on purpose, but I assume it has idiot proofing???

I don't think I will have an issue hearing if this engine is running or not.
If you can't hear yourself think, don't press the start button. LOL

EDIT:
The bulb on a stock baja appears to be 35Watts.
https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/...gaAkt4EALw_wcB
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  #25  
Old 05-20-2018, 07:30 PM
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Go for it. You probably will not have the light on that much, right? Still though I would not worry. Batteries do not like heat, so don't install it next to the muffler.
  #26  
Old 05-20-2018, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TT540 View Post
Go for it. You probably will not have the light on that much, right? Still though I would not worry. Batteries do not like heat, so don't install it next to the muffler.
At the moment I am planning on installing a "battery box" just above the foot pegs on the front side of the down pipe.

But that will probably change.

Battery was at 14.05 V when I left for work at about 3 o'clock.
Voltage was read right after disconnecting the charger.

8 hours later (left off charger) it is at 13.5Volts.
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  #27  
Old 05-21-2018, 06:55 AM
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You won't ride the bike that long. You'll get distracted by math or science or something.
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  #28  
Old 05-21-2018, 09:18 PM
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Push to Start.
To be fair, this bike will require that you rock. If you don't rock, you cannot start or ride the bike.


It looks Perfect!!!!

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  #29  
Old 05-22-2018, 12:59 PM
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As long as you don't rock out with your you know what out.
  #30  
Old 05-22-2018, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
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As long as you don't rock out with your you know what out.
Good looking out.
The seat heat may not provide sufficient clearance.
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  #31  
Old 06-08-2018, 12:46 AM
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So what is the proper way to test this DC output charging system?

Do I check voltage when not connected to a battery?
Like put one lead of the DMM to the wire from the charging coils and the other lead to the block (ground)? And check voltage? This is what I've been doing. At low RPMs, the voltage is really low (2.5 volts).

When connected to the battery (which was around 13.3 Volts by itself) I was getting 15-16 volts at the battery. 13.3 + 2.5 = 15.8???

What does this tell me? What does it mean?

I was reading the Briggs charging system testing manual and it says in order to test a DC output charging system you should be testing the dc amperage, not the voltage.

What should I test? And how do I go about it? Should I be worried about the voltage? If I was getting 13.3 + 2.5 volts at low RPM, am I going to get 13.3 + 14 (27.3) volts at high RPM and damage the battery.

I do not like that I don't understand this stuff.
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  #32  
Old 06-08-2018, 05:15 AM
BeaterofAincrad BeaterofAincrad is offline
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Default Clone Electric Start Electric Fuel Pump

I'm not too experienced in electrical stuff on small engines myself but I watched a video the other day about testing your alternator.

So if you have an alternator on the engine then the 15-16V is coming from the alternator to charge the bat.

  #33  
Old 06-08-2018, 08:15 AM
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I guess I still have no idea what is going on.

If the charging system was putting out 15 Volts, wouldn't I see 15V when testing without it connected to the battery?

I'll test again, leaving the battery connected and let the engine rev bit.

I'll check the voltage (at the battery) and amperage at ~1200 RPM and then ~2400 RPM, and again at ~3600 RPM.

Since there is diode in the circuit, if I measure current it must be current flowing TO the battery (not coming from it), correct? If current is flowing to the battery it must be charging it right?

If the voltage measured across the battery terminals is 16 Volts, it is too high, right?
Will a buck converter work if the stator output voltage is only a few volts when not connected to a battery but 16 volts when connected to a battery?

So many unknowns to me!!!
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  #34  
Old 06-08-2018, 09:40 AM
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This is all just my understanding in a simple way and could be slightly wrong.

It's charging the Bat. at 15V but the Bat. can only hold ~12V. If it charged it at a lower V then the Bat. wouldn't last long. So without it connected the Bat. will only show ~12V(or under if it's not charged).

Checking at a higher RPM means the alternator/stator is gathering more energy, which then should go through the the V regulator(which is good since your lights aren't blown). The slightly higher V might be the tolerance of the V regulator(if it has any? it's a possibility).

Yes, yes.

If it's 16V plugged in & running then no. If it's 16V unplugged then possibly.

Idk about the last question.
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