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  #41  
Old 11-08-2018, 10:09 PM
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cool. hope it goes well
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  #42  
Old 11-08-2018, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Functional Artist View Post
Lets bend some pipe

I think we can incorporate the seatback/rollbar in with the bottom of the motor box.
(see drawing below)
Started with a 10" piece of pipe.
Marked at 20", 60" & then, at 100"
Bent it at the 20" mark to ~75* angle & also at the 100" mark to ~75*
(being sure to keep 'em in alignment)
Then, turned 'er ~90* & bent 'er to the max right in the middle at the 60* mark.

A ratchet strap easily draws 'em together to ~12" apart.
I used my flexy straws and now my own Ariel Atom is done. I made sure to use my Harbor Freight hydraulic flexy straw bender.

It runs off coin cells and can haul two fat ants around.



I don't have any flexy straws
Nice work though! In its current state...it makes a nice coat hook! I'm sure the people at Ariel must love having their car being used as a coat hook
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  #43  
Old 11-09-2018, 07:41 AM
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Default Rear Suspension

Well, that's a beginning, but what's next?

I guess we'll start @ the back & work our way forward.

An actual Ariel Atom has an independent rear suspension with a transaxle & individual axles going to each wheel.

Were not doin that. (at least not on this one) too complicated & expensive

I think a swing arm that travels in between the bottom motor box rails might work pretty good in this situation..

So, next is to make a swing arm.

On this one, I'll just mount the motor & axle to the swing arm & then mount the batteries elsewhere.

First, we need to make a motor mount plate. (3/16" x 4" x 6" steel)

Measured, marked & drilled (8) 3/8" holes, (2) for each slot.

I used a Dremel to cut out the remainder of material & then, filed 'em 'till the bolts slid easily, in the slots.

* I am using 3/8" round headed bolts so, I don't need to use a wrench from the bottom side, when mounting the motor.
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SAM_2904.jpg   SAM_2905.jpg  

SAM_2907.jpg  
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  #44  
Old 11-09-2018, 09:10 AM
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Default Swing Arm

For the swing arm I'll use 1" square tube, because it's easier to "square up" & the flat sides help the "rub rails" slide smoothly.

First, I lined the (2) main rails up & drilled the "hinge holes".

Next, I squared a main rail up with a cross rail & tacked 'em together.

Then, squared & tacked the other (3) corners, double checked everything & welded 'er up good.

* I left ~2" in front for the "hinge" bolts & made the rear nice-n-flush.
Attached Thumbnails
SAM_2911.jpg   SAM_2913.jpg  

SAM_2915.jpg   SAM_2917.jpg  

SAM_2919.jpg  
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  #45  
Old 11-09-2018, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Functional Artist View Post
* I am using 3/8" round headed bolts so, I don't need to use a wrench from the bottom side, when mounting the motor.
You are using carriage bolts, an excellent idea.
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  #46  
Old 11-09-2018, 01:57 PM
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Before mounting the motor plate we need to mount the axle, sprocket & bearings so, we can line everything up.
I sat the motor in place, too (didn't get any pics) & made sure everything was in alignment & cleared nicely.

Then, welded the mount plate on good.

* Notice the way the motor mount plate got bowed a bit from welding.
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SAM_2936.jpg   SAM_2937.jpg  

SAM_2940.jpg  
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  #47  
Old 11-09-2018, 03:17 PM
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Now that we have a swing arm we can get back to the rear of the frame.

Went to set it in between the frame rails, but they seemed kinda tweaked.

I know the swing arm is square so...

Checked with a "big" square & yup, the one on the right os off just a bit, but the one on the left is off quite a bit.

Guess we are gonna have ta do some "body work"

Clamped 'er down on the back of my truck (a 10,000 lb. winch will do the trick) using a couple of 2 x 4's to spread out the pressure.

Then, slid a piece of scrap 1 1/2" pipe (for leverage) over each side & tweaked 'em back to being square.
(90* with the seatback)
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SAM_2966.jpg   SAM_2967.jpg  

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  #48  
Old 11-09-2018, 04:13 PM
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Next, I added a couple of "outer" rub rails. (in side of the motor box)

This way the swing arm doesn't bump, catch or clash with the lower motor box tubes

Also added a couple of wear pads (in between the hinge rails) to avoid metal to metal scraping.

Will probably add a couple further back. (for power sliding)

Once we knew what the dimensions needed to be I made up a couple of "cross bars" & welded 'em in to "lock 'er together"
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SAM_2986.jpg   SAM_2987.jpg  

SAM_2989.jpg   SAM_2990.jpg  

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Old 11-10-2018, 07:18 AM
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Still workin' & figurin' on how to do those "bows" or arches.

Doin' research, I found this:



...but, that's a whole 'nother tool & looks like a lot of work for as many different ones we would need & the size that they would need to be.
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  #50  
Old 11-11-2018, 09:56 AM
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Default Motor Box

Now that the bottom of the motor box, with swing arm, is done lets "build 'er up" (work on the sides & top)

First, had to do some "mock up" work to get the measurements.

According to the pics, the bottom of the motor box should be just below the axle & the top should be just above the top of the rim, but not the tire.

The bottom of the motor box was supposed to be ~12" wide (between the wheels)
...but, ended up a little wider. (~14")

So, where the top should have been ~16" previously, (we had to adjust it accordingly)
…it now needs to be ~18" wide

Then, another quick "mock up" using those figures & factoring in the angles, it looks like we would need to make the upright "pillars" ~5 3/8".

This should put the top of the motor box just about where we need it to be.

I finally get to use a bunch of scrap pipe that I've has in a bucket for years.

2 - 18" pieces for upper cross bars
2 - 12" pieces for the rear ends of the lower "rib rails"
4 - 5 3/8" pieces for the upright pillars.

Cleaned 'em up, squared 'em up & welded 'em up.
Attached Thumbnails
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SAM_3023.jpg   SAM_3024.jpg  

SAM_3025.jpg   SAM_3028.jpg  

SAM_3029.jpg   SAM_3030.jpg  

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  #51  
Old 11-11-2018, 09:43 PM
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Now we need the pillars to hold 'er up.

Used the "rough" grinder to "notch" the ends of the (4) "pillars" (5 3/8" pieces of pipe)

I sat the rear frame section (lower motor box) on the bench, sat the upper motor box on a coffee can & used a couple of boards til' the pillars would just fit in.

Then, used a square & tape measure to get 'er centered & squared
Attached Thumbnails
SAM_3032.jpg   SAM_3034.jpg  

SAM_3036.jpg   SAM_3037.jpg  

SAM_3038.jpg   SAM_3040.jpg  

SAM_3042.jpg   SAM_3046.jpg  

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Old 11-11-2018, 10:26 PM
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I used the magnetic square to help keep the pillars ~90* (from front to back) & ~45* (from side to side)

Tack welded 'er all the way around (top & bottom of all (4) pillars)

Double checked everything (distances, angles & "the look")

Then, welded 'er on good.

Looks like somethin' is startin' to take shape
Attached Thumbnails
SAM_3047.jpg   SAM_3048.jpg  

SAM_3050.jpg   SAM_3051.jpg  

SAM_3053.jpg  
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  #53  
Old 11-11-2018, 11:48 PM
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It is starting to take shape quite nicely. Thanks for all the pics. Even though I don't comment too often, I find myself living vicariously through your builds
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  #54  
Old 11-12-2018, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landuse View Post
It is starting to take shape quite nicely. Thanks for all the pics. Even though I don't comment too often, I find myself living vicariously through your builds
Thank you very much.

I kinda try to do my "build threads" like they did in the old Hot Rod magazines.

Step by step with lots of pics & details.

…& hopefully we have something kool in the end

* If ya think about it, Go karts are mini Hot Rods
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:45 PM
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I think I did it!

I made some "bows"
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SAM_3103.jpg  
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  #56  
Old 11-13-2018, 07:05 PM
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Instead of making (2) separate "lower rib rails", I figured I'd try to make (1) big "U" for the "nose"
...& then see If I could add the "bows" to it

First, I measured & marked another 10' piece of pipe in the middle (@60")
...& then 6" each way (@ 54" & 66") for the "nose" bends

I also measured & marked it @ 6", 12", 16", 20", 24" & 30" (from each end) for the "bows"

It took ~40 pumps @ the 54" & the 66" marks to establish the "nose"

To help "widen" the bend, I adjusted the rollers "out" a couple of notches
(It's adjustable for bending larger diameter pipes)

Then, I did 5 pumps @ the 12", 16", 20", 24" & 30" marks (on each side)
...which "bowed it in" to meet up with the upper motor box rails pretty nicely.
Attached Thumbnails
SAM_3099.jpg   SAM_3100.jpg  

SAM_3111.jpg   SAM_3105.jpg  

SAM_3106.jpg   SAM_3108.jpg  

SAM_3110.jpg  
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  #57  
Old 11-14-2018, 07:28 AM
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Our lower rib rail looks pretty good
...but (sorry to say) it's a little bit too wide.

So, I measured 1" each way from the center mark & cut a 2" piece out of the middle.

I'll use a 3" piece of 5/8" rod to "pin" 'em back together & then, weld 'er up good.

The "nose" was ~14" wide, now it's ~12", much better.
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SAM_3112.jpg   SAM_3113.jpg  

SAM_3114.jpg   SAM_3117.jpg  

SAM_3118.jpg   SAM_3119.jpg  

SAM_3120.jpg  
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  #58  
Old 11-14-2018, 07:46 PM
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Lets see if we can "get 'er together"

Marked, trimmed & cleaned the ends up a bit.
How's that for "triangulation"?
Propped 'er up on the "right" angle & clamped 'er down

Tacked 'er on (both sides) double checked everything (height, width, length & the angle)
...& welded the lower rib rail to the motor box.
Attached Thumbnails
SAM_3121.jpg   SAM_3123.jpg  

SAM_3125.jpg   SAM_3132.jpg  

SAM_3134.jpg   SAM_3135.jpg  

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Old 11-14-2018, 08:25 PM
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Not perfect
...but, looks pretty good!
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SAM_3139.jpg   SAM_3137.jpg  

SAM_3138.jpg   SAM_3140.jpg  

SAM_3141.jpg  
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Old 11-14-2018, 08:58 PM
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Lets catch up a little paperwork

I made some adjustments to the measurements, again (for like the 56th time)
Now, it looks like we'll have ~48" wheelbase & ~60" overall.
So far, we have made
1.) seatback/lower motor box combination
2.) the rest of the motor box
3.) & the lower rib rail
Attached Thumbnails
SAM_3156.jpg   SAM_3158.jpg  

SAM_3157.jpg   SAM_3160.jpg  

SAM_3159.jpg   SAM_3162.jpg  

SAM_3161.jpg  
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